Camry :: 1994 - Accelerator Is Sticking?
Jun 23, 2008
Once again, my '94 Camry scared the bejeezus out of me, by reving out of control. I was driving a mountainous back road and all of a sudden the car was doing 40 mph on it's own. It was ROARING out of control so badly that I had to shut the car off in Drive. I would get out, pull the linkage back to an idle then start the car and, without touching the gas proceed on my way home. This kept up, until I had a very steep incline to go down. I kept the car in low, and kept touching the brakes. Then, I was smelling my brakes, and decided to just stop and, hopefully, someone would come by with some tools! And they did.......
To make a long story short, I got a 10mm wrench and took the cover off the box that (I think) holds the cruise control and throttle cables. It has sand and dirt all over the guides, springs, and throttle cables. I sprayed it with WD40, kept moving them, and it loosened up nicely. Then I drove the rest of the way home w/o incident.
THis morning, I cleaned all the oil and crud out and was going to blast it w/PB spray, and thought I would ask here if perhaps silicone would work better for me. I live on a dirt road, and there is always a lot of sand around that sticks to anything oily. Wouldn't silicone lubricate equally well, w/o the stickiness that all this sand and dirt sticks to????
(Oh, I checked and cleaned the throttle housing with an old toothbrush and carb cleaner too, but it was the cables in the covered box area that was the problem.)
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2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
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I have a 1994 Dodge RAM 1500, v8, 5.2 liter truck. A few months ago, I noticed that when it's at normal temperature, it would not crank unless I floored the accelerator. Once it cranked, it was hard to keep it idling at a constant RPM. I have to rev it up a lot to finally get it to idle by itself or to put it in Drive to move. Once it's moving, everything seems pretty good. If I stop and change gears (Park, for example), it will stall. I have also noticed this happening if I'm in Park, then turn on the air conditioning putting a load on the engine, it will stall.
When the engine is cold (sitting for several hours), it cranks fine and runs fine.
I have replaced the idle air control (IAC) valve, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the Crank sensor between the motor and the transmission (what a pain to replace), the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, and the computer (with a used one from a salvage yard. And, I had a mechanic check out the distributor cap and it's internals and do whatever he did.
I did read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor may be an issue?
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Ford F-150, 1994 : intermittent problem. going down highway, foot on the gas. At times, will press accelerator to go faster but nothing happens, like clog somewhere. Sometimes, with foot still on gas, i will hear a popping sound coming from under the truck, (under the engine?, or drivers seat). Usually 4-5 pops, sometimes none. But after each pop, car accelerates slightly, as if it is a slight clearing, until finally, as if some clog was opened up, the car plunges forward, so i then take my foot off the gas. Sounds like either problem with fuel getting to the engine or a problem with the exhaust.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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My '07 CE's windows are sticking badly in the up position. When I hit the button to lower them, especially the front windows, they make a loud POP. The passenger one even stalled out because it was stuck so bad, so I carefully pushed out on it and then lowered it to free it.
I do not roll my windows down often (maybe once every 2 weeks in the fall/winter/spring), but I've never had this problem on any other cars.
I have cleaned the windows (they had a black line on them from where they were stuck), and I put a very light coating of white lithium grease on the black rubber where it was sticking. I think this is working good.
The sticking point is at the top, and it sticks on the inside of the window where it makes contact with the rubber.
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder). When I step on the accelerator, it hesitates for a moment before accelerating. Once it finally does kick in, it isn't jerky but fairly smooth, just takes a while before it will go. Other times, when I accelerate, and the car is actually moving, I feel as though the RPMs are higher than they should be considering the (slow) speed that I'm going. These problems have increased quite a bit over the past few weeks.
Prior to this, my check engine light came on. An autozone employee checked the code related to the light and said I have a faulty EGR. He didn't seem to know whether or not this would be at all related to my acceleration problem. Someone else suggested that an EGR's importance is more environmental than functional. While I'm all for "being green"...can only afford one problem at a time, and the acceleration problem comes first.
If the two are connected, and if not, what my acceleration problem might be? How critical is a properly working EGR anyhow? The actual code according to autozone was EGR P0401...
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I have a 2004 camry 2.2L with 97,000, automatic. Yesterday it would start but had no acceleration and CEL. SO towed it home and scaned and got P2101, which said low accelerator motor. SO I cleaned the throttle body and everything was good and reset code. This morning same thing happened...it is around 18 degrees outside. After it warmed up outside no problem and no CEL? WTF? Obviously I have a problem with the throttle body when it's cold. What to try next?
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So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
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Trying to diagnose the below clunk noise as the accelerator is initially pressed?
[URL] ....
If there belt tensioner wobbles like this on a 2azfe? There is a noise as you initially press the accelerator but then disappears. You can hear it in the video. I know there is a tsb on the tensioner but the belt doesn't look like its loosening off.
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So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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Variable idle. Ignition new as is air filter etc. Idles fine in neutral, a bit rough in drive, smooths out with AC on. Sometimes it's also fine with AC off. Sometimes not, literally stop to stop. Removed and cleaned IAC. Reinstalled with new gaskets etc. 30 ohm resistance between center and either side pins. Manual specifies 19.3 to 22 ohms. Is the 30 ohm reading enough variation to indicate a bad IAC in need of replacement?
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
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1994 Camry XLE V-6 239,000 miles and just broke in. Dash brake light on??
I have checked brake fluid taking lid off the canister and level is spot on. Do not see any obvious leaks looking under the car at each wheel. Whatever is the cause it is no longer letting my cruise control to work. The cruise control system must be getting a constant signal telling it the brakes are being applied. Car brakes seem to work ok and I continue to drive car daily. Problem with dash brake light cropped up about 5 days ago after I cleaned the EGR valve.
I previously had a check engine light and code was for the EGR. Don't believe the problems are related but thought I would add this info anyway. BTW the check engine light came on again so cleaning the EGR didn't solve the problem. Will have to have the code read again to see if its the EGR or something else now. Dash is starting to look like a christmas tree with all the pretty colored lights on. What should I check to solve the dash brake light/cruise control issue.
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Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.
I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?
1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,
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94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
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I am new to Toyotas and recently inherited a 94 Camry. When the door opens a chime starts and does not go off until the door is shut. Looking at a wiring diagram it appears that only the courtesy light operates off the door switch.
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