I have just acquired a 93 Camry with manual transmission and no tachometer. However, I have a auto one that I am wrecking with a tachometer which I want to fit to the manual vehicle which I will keep in commission.
Where it is connected to the engine wiring? Is there a sender unit? Or does it sense pulses from the distributor?
The service manual that I have does not describe it.
I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
Just curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
View 5 RepliesI am in the nasty position of having to remove my 6-spd manual transmission to investigate the nasty whine in it. The dealer says $2300 to fix it and the parts are $100, so I am going to do it myself. I have been unable to find a repair manual yet for the 2010 Camry and I was wondering for step by step for removal of the tranny. I don't need a lot of detail, but it is nice to know the order in broad strokes.
View 7 RepliesJust curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
In the last 8 months I'm having a shaking of the car when starting in first gear (manual trans).
I thought it was a loose engine mount - had it checked and one replaced and still the shaking is there.
I notice it is more pronounced when the engine is hot and starting on a decline.
Since I've had this Camry (almost 8 yrs), I've had the clutch changed 2x. First time was just wear and tear. The person who replaced it put the fly wheel on backwards! Drove it for 3 years until it just broke. Replaced by another shop who couldn't believe I got three years out of the bad job.
At any rate, this doesn't feel like a clutch-related issue. No slippage feeling or other issues when moving through the gears at higher speeds. But maybe they did a bad job too?
I have a 2011 Camry 6 speed Manual Transmission and every so often when I shift gears I hear a squeal noise in the engine right as I fully let off the clutch and give it gas in the next gear up. It usually does it when shifting to 2, 3, and 4th gear. Any other Manual Camry owner with this issue that might know what it is? I never really hear it if I take off slow or shift at a slow/normal pace, but if I'm in a rush and have to pick up and GO then most likely will do it.
View 4 RepliesMechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 Camry will not start; I have never had any starting issues before and the car was running perfectly hours before the problem started.
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump is operating
The ignition and fuel pump fuses and relays are good
When I attempt to start the car everything sounds normal, but engine never starts and the tachometer does not move.
Additionally a soft buzzing noise starts coming from somewhere near the air filter box. The sound can be stopped by removing the "EFI" fuse. Disconnecting the injectors does not stop the sound.
I have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
View 1 RepliesWhy my vue manual tranny only goes in first third and fifth . Can't get it in second fourth or reverse . Bought it like that .
View 1 Replies1997 Saturn SL ... It's like 3rd gear is where 1st used to be and 4th is where 2 used to be. 5th and reverse work but are more towards the center. It's as if the stick shifted over to the left.
Is it possible for the shift stick and it's linkage to become displaced? The temp did drop today about 40 degrees and it snowed but the car stays in the garage and was only parked at my work for a couple hours after a 2 mile uneventful drive.
No warning lights that I can see but the check engine lite has never worked. The engine is a 96 rebuild but the transmission should be a 97 like the rest of the car.
Great mileage and otherwise drives fine.
I'm thinking about getting the 2014 Subaru Impreza with the CVT transmission, w/o paddle shifters, and found that there is a manual mode in the CVT. How does that work if there aren't any paddle shifters or actual gears to shift to? (I don't know a lot about cars).
View 1 Replies2007 V6 Mustang Manual Transmission. I recently got stuck in my drive way due to a poor plowing job by the plow guy. I had to turn the traction control off and aggressively shift transmission between reverse and 1st to rock the car and spin the tires. I eventually got unstuck but now the transmission doesn't feel right.
I thought it was the clutch but the issue seems to occur only shifting from 1st to 2nd. The higher gears all seem relatively fine. There is just a catch between 1st and 2nd now that sometimes causes me to not be able to shift into second gear without forcing the shifter down roughly.
Is it possible that I just threw something out of alignment inside the transmission itself? It doesn't make the car undriveable but i get ticked every time i drive it knowing that it was fine before the poor plowing job.
Should I even bother having it looked at? I know transmission repairs are expensive.
95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
My 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
97 Saturn SL with a 5 speed manual transmission only has 1st and reverse. Can usually not even put the clutch in and it runs in 1st gear without stalling like a 1 gear automatic transmission. Weird
The Shifter moves normally but there is no 2 thru 5. Can put it in reverse. Drove it 3 miles to my home.
Anyway this is clutch related or some relatively cheap adjustment? The car is not worth the price of a new Xmission. Other alternative like replacing with an automatic xmission?