Car wouldn't start the other morning and figured a dead battery but found it to be charged. Things are going haywire in the car lights blinking,relays clicking etc when i try to start it. Car was acting fine just a day prior and gave no indication that something was wrong. It's a 93 3.0 v6. I'm gonna pull the starter and check the wiring before i write it off.
View 5 RepliesSo I have recently did a body swap on my 7.3 I rolled. Put a body from another one this one. Before I took the old body off the engine ran fine. Nothing wrong at all.
Now that I have the new body on, I am stuck with a fuel shutoff switch. I read that it is suppose to be pressed down, but when it is pressed down, I turn the key and 4 relays under the hood click rapidly, 2 under the dash, and the drive side blinker blinks? Anyway, when I push it up, and turn the key, all the lights come on normally, wait to start light comes on. It'll crank good, the battery's are good, had them tested and fully charged. Checked ando triple check all battery connections and grounds. Anyway, it'll crank and want to start it fire up for a second and die. The low pressure oil gauge on the dash doesn't go up, but I think I broke the sensor connector for that. The fuel pump doesn't make any noise, the fuel bowl has fuel in it, but does fill up with fuel. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is somehow shorted out, so when I depress the fuel shutoff switch it makes everything go crazy. But even then the fuel pump doesn't make any noise?
Have a 2011 Camry base 6 spd manual. Came out from work and won't start. Electrical cutting on and off. Turn key and only only light comes on with clicking. Get a jump and it starts but all electrical comes on and off for five minutes until engine dies. Now won't start with jump and just makes clicking noise at alternator with lots of lights on and off on the dash. Seems like a major short somewhere.
New battery seems a waste at 2 years old and probably not the problem.
I just changed my battery 2 months ago and all i heard this morning was CLICK CLICK CLICK and all the lights blinking on my dash. What would be the problem? Besides the battery being dead? It is not being charged i would say.
View 3 RepliesI own a 1993 Nissan Sentra (2 Dr, SE, red:-). I've owned it for 17 years and has been a fantastic car. until March of this year when I had to replace the transmission at odometer reading of 121,xxx. Everything has been fine up until about a month ago when I returned to my car after working out at the gym...and it refused to start. No clicking, no hemming or hawwing, just nothing. The lights worked, the seat belt alarm worked, all dashboard lights worked. But absolutely no connection to anything. I tried moving the steering wheel, juggled the key, etc. but nothing.
So I called a tow truck. Thirty minutes later, he arrived, sat down in my driver's seat and magically, it started with no problems. It has happened again only once since that time, but I can never trust that she will start when I need to go to work, etc. I took it to a garage..they told me that they couldn't fix it or find anything wrong unless it was "in the throes" of not working. ...which is ridiculous because it could very possibly not start, have it towed, arrive at the garage, and she might start right up.
I have my Ex parked in the driveway, as the weather has been nice and I've been taking my motorcycle everywhere.
I went to get something out of it the other day... Opened the door and it sounds like I've left the hazards on... There's a clicking coming from the dashboard and the overhead lights, and running board lights blink. If I shut the door, it stops.
Do I need to call in a priest?
My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
I have a 1988 Ranger with the 2.9. 2wd, xlt. It seems that my wipers have no power. I put a test light in the fuse panel where the 6A cb is and no light. To verify I wasn't doing something wrong, I put it in the dome light and tester came on. I tried with the wiper switch on interval, low & hi. I can't seem to find where the power comes from to follow back from the fuse panel. The washer fluid doesn't work either. No clicking from relays or anything.
View 2 RepliesThe truck runs but After staring and during idle there is a heavy relay click and the speedo jumps to 20 or 30 mph. Afterwards on a 30 to 45 sec cycle there is a relay clicking in the area of the PCM relay.
Speedo jumps to 10mph and radio resets. 15 to 20 seconds later there is a light click behind the dash ( no speedo jump or radio reset). Rinse and repeat...
I have tried to locate which relay is setting it is either the PCm or possibly the pcm and the icm. Can't tell. Popped and swapped for s&@$s and giggles but no change.
1999 7.3, 308,000 miles. No mods. Original injectors and no other major repairs.
I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
View 6 RepliesI have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
View 10 RepliesBottom-line question: is there a way to tell if a GEM is fried?
'99 F350 with a known water leak (not where it leaks, but for sure that it does--glove box, floor mats, etc.).
Recently started running the battery down, and then noticed that under low-voltage conditions it would click the door-lock relay back and forth, etc.
Now, after several inches more rain, it's making clicking and other electrical havoc noises any time it's not running, key in or out, even when the battery is up enough to start the truck (V10). I charged the truck and started it, drove it around to let it charge some more, and when I got home and shut it off, it was clicking as bad as ever.
After reading on the forums a while, I went ahead and pulled the fuse panel and GEM. The two big fuse panel connectors were definitely wet inside, and there's a little corrosion on one or two of the bayonet connectors. The GEM itself doesn't seem wet, and it doesn't look/smell like I've let the smoke out of it.
What do I do at this point? Last time, after I charged it up, it seemed to hold a charge and didn't do any clicking. I thought at the time it was related to the door switches that had been on the fritz (and which I lubricated after reading about where they are). Now, I suspect it was just because it had been long enough since it was rained on that things had dried out.
I have an '02 camry v6. My hazard lights started blinking when the car is off and aren't responding to the on/off button. When I turned the car on they stopped for a few seconds then blinked rapidly several times, then back to normal blinking. I tried disconnecting the battery and restarting the car. The battery is only a few months old. What could be causing it? Where is the fuse for it located?
View 1 RepliesMy dash lights flash on and off. Happens every time I start the car and always within a 1/2 mile - almost as if it is tied to the odometer somehow.
View 3 RepliesCar won't start and dash lights keep flashing, but I know it's not the battery!! I put a brand new one in and a battery charger!! And still the dash lights keep flashing and car won't start!! Is there something else besides the battery that might be causing this ??
View 7 RepliesSo, I'm driving back from the beach currently (typing this on the side of the road). All appears to be fine with the car. Then all of the sudden, the hazards start blinking and I can't turn them off. I pull over (currently), get out to walk around, see nothing wrong. Not running hot, not anything whatsoever. Sit a couple of minutes, and they go off by themselves.
I've been cruising for the past 3 hours, no problems. No warning lights on the dash.
I drove my 2005 Prius to work and parked, left it overnight, then the next night went to take it home and the fuel and gear lights are blinking, and the car won't start.
View 7 RepliesTruck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
Last week the coil went out. The housing had several cracks, and the heavy oil had filled the distributor cap. So the coil, rotor, and distributor cap were replaced. About 4 days later, all my engine would do was make a grating sound when I turned the key. My boyfriend said that it sounded like my starter had gone. It wouldn't start with hitting it or anything. So, he and I, while trying to save some money because we're both on disability, replaced the starter. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens! We're pretty sure the battery is dead. We have it on a trickle charge right now. But a funny thing happened, all of a sudden the open door alarm started going off! The door had been open for several minutes when it started. So we think that it may be a short. The starter relay, when you look at it, has a spot of corrosion on the indicator. Tomorrow we're going to try cleaning them.
1993 Toyota Camry DX with 170,000 miles ....