1992 camry wont start, it turns over very freely I think it is the fuel pump or relay. No buzzing noise under the car with the key on, what are some tests that can be done to find out the issue?
View 7 RepliesMy 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.3 won't start it turns over but no start days before it was stumbling and it would dye out when I got to a stop
View 16 RepliesThe motor turns over, but it will not start.
View 3 Replies92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
View 2 RepliesMy Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
View 9 Replies'92 Camry 5S-FE 4cyl 2.2L A/T; This one has me puzzled. Runs well, newer ignition parts, but does not start when warmed up to OpTemp. Starts fine cold, restarts when warm after 5-10 minute cool down (is not overheating). Will start hot if starting fluid is injected into throttle body, so problem is unlikely spark, it has to be fuel, right? Just ran SeaFoam thru top end as I was advised it could have been carbon build up, but that did not fix. Got some carbon burn off, but hot start issue remained.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump and filter both replaced less than a year ago. I have basic tools, but not much more than a Multimeter for test equipment.
I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
View 6 RepliesSince having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 3 RepliesMy 07 Camry, 2.4 decided one morning not to start. Was fine when parked. I have changed the fuel pump and replaced the spark plugs and still nothing. Where to look next. It does turn over so I assumed it was either fuel or spark.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 Toyota camry has twice just barely started. The car normally starts just fine but there are 2 times after I had been driving and making frequent stops and starts then the car barely turns over when I try to start it. Both times I did manage to get it started and then it ran fine and when I stopped it at home it restarted fine. Each time I also noticed that the clock had reset itself. There was a period of about 3 weeks between the two times it did this. Both days that this happened it was very hot outside. Why this is happening?
View 8 RepliesI replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
View 2 RepliesThe motor turns over but it just don't seem to have enough power to start. Have not tried to arc check from the plug wires. I believe the coil is internal on this model.
View 1 RepliesMy 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
View 4 RepliesI run my 92 celica for a good 30 miles and check engine light comes on but after driving another 20-25 miles it turns off. I red the code it was the Egr (code 71) I took off egr valve and cleaned it out idk if its bad, how to test the valve?
View 1 RepliesI've owned my 92 Camry since Septembe of last year. It is in wonderful condition (or, so I thought), but has been one headache after the next the last few weeks.
Most recently, the AC has apparently died. I went to turn it on as a test-run after the winter and discovered that the air was not cooling down. If my memory serves me correctly, I did not notice any lessening in the AC the last time I used it;it seems to have just quit.
Car Jerks when a/c is on and acceleration becomes jam power steering and brakes becomes harder then normal situation (a/c is off). Why? I have Camry Prominent 2.5L 1992 model.
View 4 RepliesI have a '92 camry with disc front and rear drums. This has been an ongoing problem for the past few months so stay with me while I explain the symptoms. About 5 months ago, I changed the front brakes. The pass. side disc was rusted on so bad, that heat and some work with a rubber mallet wouldn't get it off. It ended up shattering while hitting it with the mallet. The drivers side took some work, but eventually popped off unharmed. The cheap idiot in me decided to take the drivers side disc and have it turned since it was still within parameters, and I bought a new disc for the pass side. New pads, and I'm back on the road.
Fast forward to last month, and I decided that I should check the rears. Same situation; but this time both drums are frozen to the hubs and no amount of mallet and heat would get them off. I ended up cutting around the axle hub with a sawzall, then popping the remaining metal off the hub with a big screwdriver. New hubs and shoes and I'm back on the road.
As I'm driving it a few days later, a few miles into the drive, I notice a light vibration that feels like its coming from the front. The vibration eventually gets really bad and I can feel it in the steering wheel and its even shaking the dash. This happens ONLY when I brake, and not light braking, but when I get the pedal about halfway down to the floor.
So I'm thinking I may have warped the drivers side disc when I applied heat to it. I ended up buying a new disc and replacing the drivers side. So at this point, I have two new discs and lightly used pads. A short time later, the vibration comes back and slowly gets worse again. This is getting long, but I'm almost to the end....
So at that point I take both newer discs back and have them turned. I also get new pads, (free due to warranty), and I'm back on the road. The vibration eventually came back.
Today, I checked the rears, since the problem seemed to start after the rears were changed, and everything looked good. The only thing I noticed that I may not have noticed before, is that it doesn't appear to have "primary" and "secondary" shoes, as they all seem to be the same length. My jeep and ford have a smaller shoe on each side that has to go in a certain place for some reason. The camry shoes seem to be really close in length.
So I got the rear wheels back on and made sure the shoes were adjusted out so that I had the right amount of drag on the wheel. Retorqued all the lugnuts and went for a ride. And the vibrations back...
So the only thing I haven't replaced at least once is the calipers, but I cleaned them when I did the front brake job. It seems like everything is fine until I've done some braking, and either the pads or shoes are heating up. It never starts right away, its always about 10-12 minutes into some braking. I thought maybe the hammering I did to get the discs off had damaged the axles, or the heat had warped them, but I have NO vibration with regular driving; just at moderate braking.
I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
View 2 RepliesI've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
View 21 RepliesI took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
View 4 RepliesI had the front engine mount replaced on my V6 - 3VZ and most of the what I call a clunk has been solved but when traveling at most speeds and taking my foot off the accelerator the transmission seems to clunk and when I reapply acceleration it clunks again. Its like the transmission has to catch up or decrease to the engine speed......my way of describing it!
The mechanic who replaced my front engine mount talked to his friend in the transmission business and they feel it may be a chain in the transmission that is stretched (like a bicycle chain) and the slack causes the clunk. I have never heard of a transmission using a chain, however, I have no clue. Is there a chain? If there is, can it be tightened? If there is not, is there something else that can be tightened? What can I do to eliminate the clunk?
The fluid was changed last year and is red. We are retired and can't afford a transmission rebuild. Everything else is in good shape on this 1992 with 229,000 kms. at this time.