I have 91 camry that when you go to start it, it turns over then makes a chugging/choking sound and wont start. battery is good bc the radio/lights/etc come on, and i can put everything into gear. Its about 35 degrees here so im hoping that it may just be needing some antifreeze which is on the way.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
This car has been sitting in my car porch for a little over two months. I would start it once every 1 or 2 weeks and let it run for a minute. I assume the battery was not at the best of it shape since every time I started the car, it would take a little more time, but the car would end up starting just fine. After a two weeks break, the power was down and nothing would turn on at all. I jump started the Camry with cables connected to my own car and thought I would start the Camry and take it for a ride, make sure the battery gets a chance to recharge.
But nothing happened when I turn the key, nothing but this "machine gun"-like noise ( which you can hear on the video [URL] .... don't know if by starting the car without driving it for two month, I did not give a chance to the car to recharge the battery, which led to the total loss of power, but this does not explain why when jump started, the engine won't turn on, and does not explain this sound I hear...
My camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
View 10 RepliesI have a 91 Camry and have just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I thought I did everything right. I made sure the Crankshaft Pulley was aligned to TDC and I turned the Cams to the right marks. I turned the crank by hand numerous times and everything lined up.
I lowered the motor back on to the mounts but didn't connect all the belts to the alternator and compressor. I just wanted to see if it would fire up. Well nothing happened, it turns over but won't start. I pulled some of the plugs and they are bone dry. Sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and still nothing. When I turn the key to Accs. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump wind up? I can't remember but I don't hear a thing.
So my dilemma is, did I screw up the cam/crank alignment and just don't realize it? Like I said all the marks line up fine. Do I need to put everything back together i.e. the Cruise Actuator, Power Steering reservoir, and all belts before I can start it up? It seemed to me I would at least get a hint off life without putting everything back. Then again, I'm not mechanic.
Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
I have a 1991 Cadillac DeVille sedan with about 150,000 miles, I purchased this at an estate sale. As soon as I bought it, I replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, serpentine belt, power steering pulley, and of course changed the oil and oil filter. I was getting about 14-15 mpg (compared to 12 when I picked the car up). And the car ran good, not like brand new, but good. About a couple of weeks ago (as it started getting hot) the car would start chugging, backfiring and stalling, only after about 20 miles of driving (my commute to work is 35 mi), so I would spend the other 15 miles driving with four-ways on going at most 30 mph. But, on the drive home (at 2 am) I would have no issues. So, I got sick of that fun and changed the PVC valve and fuel filter (which looked like the original) and with every fill-up in addition to using 93 octane gas (as directed) and fuel injector cleaner, the gas mileage is around 10 mpg and the chugging persists after heating up. Two things to note,
1) the fans for the radiator do not turn on at all, and
2) the catalytic converter doesn't smell like rotten eggs.
Went out to my car a moment ago, Dodge Neon 2000, couldn't get the engine to start. The lights all come on, battery seems fine. It sounds like the engine isn't even trying to turn over. Instead, the car makes a weird chugging noise. I've got a recording here, is someone still awake that could give me a clue as to what this is?
[URL] .... -- I turn the key twice here and let it chug. You can hear the noise at about the 2-second mark. I don't think I had any advance warning that anything was wrong, though I did have the car in the shop a few days ago to replace a water pump and timing belt.
The truck is a 4WD with the 4.8L V8, has 134k problem free miles. While pulling a camper trailer the Service Engine Soon light came on and was blinking. After removing the camper the light went away. Now the light has returned and blinks occasionally. The light is not the larger issue tho. When the engine is cold it is difficult to start and I have to hold the accelerator to the floorboard to keep it running or rather chugging but only on days when ambient temps are below 50ish. As the motor warms it chugs less and eventually smooths out. Once the engine has warmed up it runs as if there is no kind of problem. The service engine light stays on but does not blink. This all began suddenly tho there might have been a problem before but we recently moved to the Chicago area from the Phoenix area. A stop at the local auto parts store for a code read said the fuel pressure sensor is bad tho it seems there is something more than that going on. With a Chicago winter coming this needs repaired!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo V70 XC which won't remain on after I fill it up, and while cruising (but not accelerating!) on the highway, it will chug-chug-chug and gives a very jerky ride (confirmed with cruise control). This happens during 60-80 km/hr, but less so at 100-120 km/hr. After I fill the tank I have to rev the engine to get it to 'catch' - if I don't the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall.
View 2 RepliesI got a call from my inlaws saying their truck wouldn't start. Well apparently it had been chugging the day before keep in mind the low fuel light is always on , and they made it home but it stalled and wouldn't start again ran out of gas i imagine he added gas but still nothing , I know with some of these trucks they have a maxi in the tank but would it clog to the point it wont allow fuel to pass ? how do you bring up dash engine fault codes ...
2003 f150 xlt ....
Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
W e got the car fixed last year. It was a 8 pin connector near the camshaft sensor called the Engine Wiring Connector.
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1991 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 and when we go to start it, the thing tries to keep starting(turning over). Even after the key is turned off and removed. The starter just keeps going. Have to remove positive battery cable to stop it. While it was doing that the neg wire started to smoke. If I just touch the battery cable back on it tries to start. If it sits for a bit we can hook it back up and it works ok. I just had the starter and the starter solenoid replaced.
View 5 Replies1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
View 1 RepliesMe and my father have replaced Coil Pack and the computer but every time i try to start the car it wont start it makes the sound like it wants to start but wont turn over. I have held it in start position for almost 2 mins and nothing.
View 3 Replieswe have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
View 3 Repliesi have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
View 1 Replies