Camry :: 1987 Toyota Not Starting When Turn Ignition / Sometimes Hear Grind
Apr 13, 2013
Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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A month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
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I have a 2006 F150 STX auto trans with the 4.2L V6 that has been having intermittent starting problems. It has 98,000 miles on it. It will start fine 99% of the time but sometimes when I turn the key the starter will grind once or twice then it can go a few weeks with out doing it at all. Then also sometimes it will crank turning over for several seconds but wont start. Then it starts fine the rest of the time. This has happened several times but only happens once every few weeks or so. Just trying to see if it needs a new starter or if its something else. It has a new battery.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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I recently purchased Toyota Camry Hybrid -2008, pre-purchase inspection done by Toyota dealer. Today, my car refuses to turn ignition on (I have keyless start). After several trials, it turned on. I switched off the car and tired after 5 mins. Again it gave the trouble first time, worked second time. What could cause this issue? It's still under hybrid warranty.
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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I drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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A few months ago I purchased a 2.7l toyota 4runner 1999 with about 144k from original owner. A few weeks later, the vehicle won't start. when I turned the key in the ignition, nothing happens. my mechanic from toyota dealership have checked or changed everything; the relay, battery, starter, switch module and neutral switch sensor. What it might be and how I can get it fixed?
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We own a 2000 Toyota Tundra--90,000 miles--obviously not used hard. When we turn on the ignition, we hear a ticking sound--sounds like it might be coming from underneath car passenger side. The sound seems to disappear as we drive it. What it might be? Toyota service person told us it might be exhaust manifold and estimated maybe 2K to fix it.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
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I have a 1994 4 cyl Toyota Camry LE. For the last couple of years, when I parked the car after driving it and removed the key from the ignition, the air conditioning would continue to operate normally and blow cold air through the vents, and all of the other electrics would all operate for about 5 seconds, then shut down normally. Again, this was after driving the car, engine off, with the key removed and the ignition switch in the proper "off" position. I didn't think much of it at the time.
Recently, the problem has advanced to something worse. Now, when I turn off and remove the key, all electrical components remain on indefinitely (ie radio, air conditioning, wipers work, etc... )
I can physically power down each of the individual components using it's respective switch, but there is still accessory power on the vehicle. Basically, with the key removed, the vehicle thinks it is in accessory mode. All the dash lights are illuminated, like right before you start the vehicle. The only way to completely remove all electrical from the vehicle is to physically disconnect the battery.
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So, today, my car was running fine until later tonight when I was heading out to the gym. To my surprise, the car won't start. It won't even turnover or let out a little putter. My battery is fine but I think that's where the problem is but then again, I tried jump starting it and it's still no good. I think it's probably a blown fuse or something, but I found nothing so far.
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I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
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