Camry :: 09 - Idle Vibration Plus Engine Movement
Apr 20, 2014
I have been tackling my engines idle vibrations for a while now. Now that I noticed the engine also tilts when switching from N to D about 2 inches. Here are some specs and things I have done with little effect.2.4L engine, cleaned throttle body MAF sensor, checked and replaced spark plugs, PCV replaced, checked engine mount(visual inspection, no cracked rubber ) , idle at about 900rpm, and idle sometimes drops when no load is applied, that's when vibration gets worse, normal idle still gives vibration that can be felt on the seats...and you can see the seats vibrate...
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02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.
right now, 175k miles
problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated
action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.
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My 2011 Camry is giving very weird sound with vibration on every morning or whenever the engine is cold. I checked with 2 Toyota car dealers, they are saying, could not replicate this issue and car is normal. This is certified car bought 4 months before.
Camry vibrates only when it is Drive/Reverse gear. car is smooth when Neutral and parking.
When engine cold RPM stands in 1000+ (Vibrating)
When engine become normal RPM stays 600-700 (No vibration).
I just bought this car, selling this car now will be big loss.....
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Have body work and/or any type of repair that required their doors be removed? I got my car back from the body shop and I'm noticing that the two doors that needed to be replaced just don't sound the same when they close compared to the other (factory) side. It's difficult to describe in text, but the original doors have a solid, singular and non-vibrating sound. The new doors seem more hollow and have what I would describe as a double-sounding close instead of a singular one. They sound like there's one extra vibration or movement when closing. I realize that this is probably not immensely important.
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A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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My wife's 2010 Golf TDI has started to vibrate at idle. I can't see anything obvious (sloppy belt, loose exhaust, etc). It does this only at idle, sounds like a nasty truck and goes away when you drive off. The engine shakes much more than normal. I have 2011 TDI Sportwagen and it does not do this. So, I won't entertain any comments about this being normal. Where should I start looking? I did an autoscan with VCDS, nothing came up (I'm still a rookie with this device, though).
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Just got my 2015 manual Golf GTI last Monday. The car has been great (except for the dealer leaving in the shipping pucks in the struts) and a lot of fun to drive. Over the past week I've noticed that when stopped and idling the engine vibrates every so often. Just like a light flutter. You can feel it in the pedal and kind of on the floor. This happens with the clutch engaged or not. Stopped at a light etc. Just wondering what would be the cause. I thought maybe bad gas that the dealer filled it up with. I just filled up with new gas a couple hrs ago. Maybe coil packs? When driving I have full power and it feels completely normal. Just that slight flutter every few seconds at idle.
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Noticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
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I have been experiencing a bad vibration in my engine during consistent RPM even at idle. It goes away during acceleration or letting off the pedal. I made a quick video.
-Video is still uploading at this point so... 30 minutes or so.
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I have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
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It has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
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I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
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Bought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
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When the truck is idling it has a weird vibration and their is a hum that comes from the engine. It then clicks like my clutch fan disengages or engages and both go away. I have only noticed at stop signs and sitting in a parking lot. 2004 5.4L....
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
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I want to reduce engine movement when accelerating, so is is good enough to get the ECS Dogbone Mount Kit With Stretch Bolts or should i get the ECS Tuning Ultimate Dogbone Mount Kit which includes the dogbone itselft?
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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I'm trying to pin point the cause of this vibration on a recently replaced engine. 2007 camry 2azfe 2.4L manual
The engine runs fine at idle and drives as it should. However.. there is now a noticeable vibration and sound coming from the replacement engine that wasn't there before on the original engine
The sound seems to be coming from the intake side of the cylinder head. the sound and vibration/rumble seem to increase as rpms increase. All the engine mounts are good. it's not a rattling sound.. double checked to make sure nothing was loose.
When I received the replacement engine I didn't check the internals. the engine supposedly has around 40k miles. came in as a complete longblock. I did note that the cylinder did have some blue colored dye inside the intake and exhaust ports. I dont know what this engine went through before i got it.
It almost sounds like a loud aftermarket intake when you step on the gas. Its extremely annoying driving down the road.. because of this constant vibration/hum/rumble.
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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