Camry :: 06 Stalling When Put Into Gear After Cold Start?
Jan 20, 2012
I have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
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This has to do with a rattle on cold startup from a gear connected with the VVT system. I have a 2010 camry that may be affected by this. It just past 60K miles so they probably will not cover it under warranty. Does the rattle get worse over time, or will it have an engine failure if it does not get fixed?
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My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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I just had my 72 Skylark tuned up, when I start it and put it in gear it makes popping noise and stalls, I restart and let it run a for a few minutes and it will finally go. Once it is warmed up in runs great. What causes this stalling problem,? I guess I'm too old to remember.
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I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, automatic trans, 172k miles, still in great shape and has been well cared for with standard preventative maintenance. When it's cold (<30F), the transmission will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear, can't tell which. It reaches about 40mph before the RPMs approach 3000, and I dare not push it harder. Let the car warm up or drive it for 5 minutes and everything is fine. This has happened the last two winters. The car runs great other than this, which means there is no apparent problem 8 months of the year. I had the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed last year thinking it may improve, but there was no change. What could be the culprit?
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I have a 2006 Camry 2.4l and I'm hearing a loud noise coming from the idler pulley on cold startups when I put it in gear. I don't hear it when it's in park. The noise gets worse if you turn the a/c on. I have replaced the belt, idler pulley and top motor mount. I took the belt off and cranked it when cold and there was no noise even in gear. I can see the idler pulley moving and can confirm that's the noise but what it causing the belt to make it do that? Could I have bought a defective idler pulley?
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I noticed on cold start , when I start to accelerate (usually i push down maybe 20-30% on the peddle. not WOT) i noticed when the tranny shifts from 1st to 2nd there is a sudden jerk that feels like a slip in the tranny.
you can hear and see the RPM shoot from like 3k to ~4.5k (during the shift) and back down to less than 3k on the 2nd gear.
This only happens when the engine started from a cold start and accelerating at a moderate pace. After a minute or two , i start moving from a full stop and it doesn't do it anymore. I have a 2008 model.
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My 2005 elantra 5-speed had typical clutch issues. Had a new one put in where i worked which repaired dump trucks and dumpster roll-off trucks. Got in the car and still had similar issues. I say similar because now when i start it cold, i have no 1st or 2nd..start moving in 3rd and drop into 2nd. After about 10 minutes of driving, you can chirp the tires in 1st. Could they have put gear oil that was too heavy and it needs to get warmed up? Does this sound possible? Should I change the gear oil?
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I have been having this odd issue where my car will back fire after a cold start. It only happens when getting out of first gear and going into second while driving (it happens as soon as I press the clutch pedal all the way in, and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is back out). It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. My only explanation of this would be that I live a mile above sea level (I looked at the FAQs and know that the car will act like its about to die on a cold start, yet it doesn't). So with my only "explanation" of this phenomenon being that I live a mile above sea level and the engine running rich for a few minutes after start up. My car is stock with the exception of the flapper mod.
Pics for Clicks ......
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Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
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2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
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My 2.4l camry 2002 dies right after start. This usually happens with cold starts. I checked multiple threads with similar problems and I have narrowed down the possible culprits. My working theory now is that the TPS or throttle body may be bad.
1. Is the throttle body fully closed at rest? Mine opens a bit.
2. With ignition at ON (engine not started) my TPS reads 17.6 on my Actron scanner. Is this figure OK?
OTHER THEORIES : The only code I ever got is p1656: OCV circuit malfunction. A technician checked and said it was caused by a poor grounding. That code has not returned since then (a few days back).
However, I'd still place OCV on the list:
1. Bad OCV/circuit/ECM (shudder!)
2. Leak in air throttle after MAF (VSV for EVAP stuck open?)
3. Bad A/F sensor
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Just bought a used 04 XLE Camry for daughter--60K miles. 4 cylinder engine. Engine sounded great when test drove. She has had it for 2 weeks, the engine now rattles badly upon first cold start of the day. Clears up almost immediately (maybe 3-4 seconds). Shut down and restart-no problem--only when cold (or has been sitting for more than a couple of hrs.) I'm thinking it is the valve lifters out of oil, but don't know. And what was the repair?(engine oil was just changed(Synth blend--5W-30Wt.))
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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My 2010 Camry SE 4cyl started a cold/dry starting at 33K miles. Took to the dealer in Feb 2011 and they performed the TSB below:
2010 Toyota Camry Engine And Engine Cooling Service Bulletin 59978
NHTSA: Action Number: 10034924 Service Bulletin Number: 59978
Report Date:
Jun 09, 2010
Component:
Engine And Engine Cooling
Summary: Toyota: brief engine knock/rattle noise cold startup. Immediately following a cold soak startup, some model vehicles equipped with the 1ar-fe and 2ar-fe engines may exhibit a brief knock/rattle noise from the engine compartment for approx 10 seconds.
Then 3 months later ( July 2011 ) same problem....Dealer preformed same TSB and one day later..........Same problem............
My car has been out of service for 28 days this year.
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I left my car over night so that the dealer could hear my valve rattle when it was cold. Typically it rattles for about 4 miles and then never again until the next cold start. He called me today and said that he heard exactly what I reported and it was not normal. Then the diagnosis .... BAD ALTERNATOR!
I'm 52 years old, I have built cars from the frame up, I have changed and rebuilt many an alternator over the years, I have never heard one do this! If this is correct, and I must say that he has never done me wrong, I was real close to being stranded along the road!
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