Camry :: 06 Solara Started Chugging / Surging And Engine Shut Off Completely
Oct 13, 2013
One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
View 1 Replies
My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
View 1 Replies
I just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem.
View 10 Replies
I have a f 150 2006 4.2 liter (basic truck standard) 60.000 km. Yesterday the engine just started chugging and quit I changed the fuel filter. I turned the engine over and the pump did not work when the filter was off so i pushed the emergency shut off button still nothing one question is i pushed the button in it didn't click or anything is that how it works? I have checked all the fuses and grounds what would cause the fuel pump not to work? Or what should I check next?
View 5 Replies
I have a 92 accord lx that has been giving my endless hours of trouble. at 2 thousand rpm the engine chugs like its missing, but it only does this at exactly two thousand rpm. It also revs up when i put my foot on the clutch to shift. when it does this it stays at about three thousand rpm for several seconds before dropping rapidly back down to normal idle. I have just rebuilt the engine from the block up, changed the clutch, cleaned the E.G.R. port, put a new fast idle thermo valve on, new ignition system, new E.C.U., and much more.
View 14 Replies
I'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
View 10 Replies
I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
View 3 Replies
My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
View 4 Replies
I have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
View 3 Replies
I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
View 4 Replies
Since I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
View 6 Replies
Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
View 8 Replies
High Idle after engine swap. Just finished an engine swap, the motor is out of a 2000 solara. Started the car last night, and the rpms jumped to 4000. The only issue I had with the swap is some how I did not disconnect the two throttle cables, not sure how I missed that, but they did get stretched a little.
View 1 Replies
A few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
View 14 Replies
I own a 2002 Solara V6 with over 300,000mi. The check engine light is on and affecting the tracking control. The dealer cannot find the cause without replacing many parts costing lots of money.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 Replies
2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
View 14 Replies
My hyundai accent 2005 is not starting at all. The battery is charged but the engine is not starting when i try to key the ignition. I had keyyed in continuously around 20 to 30 times but it just doesnt start. When i try to key in fully, the engine makes a sound and chokes.
I was told by someone that my spark plugs in the vehicle were wrong i.e. the genuine spark plugs were for hyundai elantra and not hyundai accent. the spark plugs were in vehicle for around 2 months. Can wrong spark plugs cause vehicle starting problems?
View 10 Replies
Last week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
View 7 Replies
I start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
View 14 Replies
