Camry :: 05 Solara Loses Power While Driving And Getting Codes P0172 And P2196
Sep 21, 2012
My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
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I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..
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I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).
I pulled the codes and I've got a:
P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)
That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.
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I have a 2003 Explorer 4.6, about 2 weeks ago the CEL kicked on but I didn't notice any problem. Last week I stopped at a red light and felt it shacking a little, I took off everything seem ok. At the next light I felt it again and that time it started sputtering, I drove it for a few more days and it would sputter now and then as I was driving and every time when I would stop when it was in drive. I had the codes pulled and it came back with P2196 & P0405 (o2 & EGR).
I was going to buy a new 02 sensor & EGR but I was told that a bad EGR could be causing the o2 code also. I put the new EGR on yesterday and had the codes cleared. I test drove it for about 10 miles with no problems. Today while driving I felt it start doing it again and about 5 mins. later the CEL was back on. I got the codes and again its P2196 & P0405, Should I have changed the 02 sensor instead or what I should do next?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
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Have a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.
Only codes are
P0113 and P2196
Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.
However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.
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Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
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So I didn't pass the smog check for the new used car that I just purchased 10 days ago. Although my old car (same model), was five years older, I never had this problem. I was told that it is a gross polluter. These are the problem that I have to fix:
OBD Fault Codes - P1128 Manufacturer specific codeP0411 Secondary Air inj Incorrect FlowP0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)P0134 O2 Sensor CKT Inactive (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
How this happens?? 2001 VW ...
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Saturn 2002 SL1 5-speed. My SES light has been on constantly for about a year (was intermittent before that) with the codes P0172, P0300 and P0507. The car also idle high (2500+) occasionally at stops. My mechanic said it is likely an intake gasket but would need a full diagnostic to determine and that is not a safety hazard to drive but that I am getting less mph. I can't afford to fix it now but I have an emission test due. Is there a way to turn to light in the mean time?
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First off its a 2006 F150 king ranch with the intercooled roush kit and roush tune. Last couple weeks its progressed from a slight stumble on start up, to now after its been off for a few hours it may start and run rough for a second, or, it may start then die, and then have to crank for at least 5 seconds before it starts. After it starts it seems to run fine. I've thrown the P0172 and P0175 code a few times. I downloaded the torque android app and did some data logging. Can you learn anything from the long term fuel trim?
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My son just left. We scanned his truck and got these codes.
P0172 Bank 1 rich P0300 random misfires P0303 cylinder 3 misfires.
I used the Torque APP Pro to check these codes. I went to live readings in the Torque APP and saw some readings for Long term and Short term bank 1 Readings.
They are all "greek" to me, and I don't recall what they were, but could get those readings tomorrow.
When I have done searches combining these codes together, I see changing spark plugs. P0172 alone gets me a different train of thought. Mainly CAT issues.
Also, his cranking to start is quite long. (A lot longer than my 6.0L would ever think of cranking) At least nearly 30 seconds of cranking. We are leaning toward first just changing #3 plug.
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My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
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so i had a litle fun in the clay today ..and now my trucks check engine lights on ..i have a code reader im running a P0172 P01275 P2106 Ive cleaned the MAF and changed my air filter...still running the three codes afterwords no trouble with turning over starts right up and drives with a normal amount of power....its a 2004 5.4L V8 ...
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2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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Jeep runs fine for days and then it will have a bad day. Loses power for a minute or two and then revs back up. If you stay on the gas it acts like it wants to stall something makes a loud banging noise under the jeep and then it takes off only to do the same thing in 2nd gear 3rd gear etc. Would o2 sensors try to shut it down? Throttle position sensor?
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