My car just stalled a few minutes after I started smelling fuel. I managed to get the car to a safe place and I realized that I was leaking fuel from the engine compartment. It seems as if the fuel is coming from a part of the fuel rail. This is the area where the leak was coming from....the orange/yellow plastic thing in the middle is where the fuel is dripping from.....
View 10 RepliesMy loaner 2014, 2.5 developed a massive fuel leak when trying to start it yesterday, and it did not start.
I had just done a short 1-mile trip and parked for 2 hrs, came out to start it and it turned over fine with no start, tried it again and smelled raw gas. Thought it flooded so I let it sit for 5 min and tried again, same result. Popped the hood and saw fuel on passenger side frame area and it was dripping a lot when I looked under it.
The car had 5400 miles on it and I had just put 1000 of those on over the week and the car was flawless. Dealer towed it and I am in another loaner while they finish my TDI. I could not see the cause and I wasn't going to trouble shoot as it was a loaner. The 2.5 has been bullet proof overall and this seemed more like a fuel line popped and not an engine issue.
Just wanted to throw an FYI out in case you get a no start and smell gas from an otherwise flawless engine. Nothing dramatic happened in this case as the engine was cold, but if happened while driving it had great potential for fire. Also, would hate to have this happen in my garage in the morning.
If I can get more details from the dealer I will post an update. This would clearly be a recall if they find defective design in failed part. I would not cry wolf on this yet, just a concern...again this car had been on the road for 5 months and 5400 miles.
For the last couple days I have been hearing a rattle from somewhere in the engine compartment. It happens on low rpm in a very narrow range. For instance, accelerating gently off a stop it would come on and then stop. Sounds like a diesel engine. Happens when the car wasnt fully warmed up and seems to go away after a period of driving. Heat shield?
View 5 RepliesSo I just took my 2010 Camry xle-4 in today for brakes and a squealing noise coming from the engine compartment, 76,000 on the odometer. Thought they were going to tell me one of the two belts needed to be replaced and to my surprise they tell me it is the transmission. If you put it in park the noise is gone. I have the 100,000 Toyota backed extended warranty. the tech stated what I did not know until today - sealed transmission. They had to requested an adjuster (warranty requirement) to come out and look at the vehicle prior to ordering a new transmission - no repair option. Vehicle shifts with no issues, drives fine.
View 1 RepliesI've noticed on my 2013 LE that after backing out of my driveway, I put it in D and after about 4 seconds, I get a deep "buzz" from the engine compartment that lasts only 1 second. Is this normal? Is it part of the torque converter or transmission?
I don't notice anything unusual on the shifting action and this happens both in winter and summer. There are no issues with the transmission that I can tell.
I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
A few days ago I noticed a whining noise coming from the engine and thought it was the power steering unit or the alternator. I was going to bring it in to the dealer this week but last night while driving, the check vsc light and the ABS light came on momentarily and then went off. Then it happened again and again until the lights began to dim and the engine started to shudder. So I quickly started driving home and saw the speedometer going from 0 to 60 mph, the headlights were practically off, the power window would not close, the console lights alternated from dark to lit repeatedly and the car was bucking as I sped home.
I knew the car was running on the battery alone and it was now very low.When I finally had to stop at a traffic light it stalled and would not start. After waiting 20 minutes for a tow truck, I tried to start it and it started. So I immediately drove approximately 3 minutes to a Service Station near my home and parked it there and then canceled the tow truck. Does this sound like the alternator went bad? I should also mention that yesterday before this whole incident took place, while I was stopped at a light with my food on the brake I noticed the brake pedal depress ever so slightly. I didn't think much of it because I knew I had an issue with that whining noise and was going to bring the car into the dealer Monday.
2003 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder
I am experiencing a loud noise which is getting worse from inside my engine compartment. I took off the heat shield assuming it was coming from the exhaust manifold but it is not. It sounds more like it is coming from the intake manifold. Now I would assume it was the intake manifold issue that has been described in many threads but it is not a vibration or clanging sound. It just sounds like air is escaping from my intake. What baffles me is that the sound is loudest in drive. Then neutral is the next loudest, then reverse there is very little unordinary sound.
I hear it a little bit when I am going like 15-20 MPH in reverse and let off the gas to decelerate. There is a noticeable noise increase just at idle too. I checked and all fluid levels are good. I changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and according to the dipstick it is right on where it should be. The sound is increasing and I am worried about what it may be. It sounds as if it has an exhaust leak but I do not see anything.
03 camry 205,000 miles. After first start when backing up, there is a thrumming vibration noise coming from the engine compartment. The noise is less when moving off in drive.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
I have an 03 Camry LE with 80,000 miles I do all the maintenance myself it has had the alternator replaced once at around 40,000 miles. The problem that just started is a whistling sound that ONLY is audible after 2500 rpm at acceleration. When the car is in park no matter how much I revive the engine I can not get it to make the whistle sound it ONLY can be heard at acceleration after 2500 rpms.
Also once I cease to accelerate it goes away while I'm driving there is NO Whistling. I've read that it could be the alternator so I had it checked twice on the car and it checked out good it passed all tests. I've removed the belt and spun the pulley to listen for bad bearing but to me sounded fine. I've removed the throttle body boot and checked for cracks an found nothing also cleaned throttle body (not that it needed it) while I had it off.
Also checked air box and nothing. The only thing I've done recently was take out cabin air filter to clean and replaced it but there was no problem with that. What's puzzling is that it ONLY occurs at acceleration after 2500 rpms then stops after acceleration.
On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
View 3 RepliesI've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
camry smoke on startup is a leaking fuel injector seal, not an oil leak.
View 4 RepliesI am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
If after you shutdown a engine, and a fuel injector is leaking. Is there any sign to look for, that can pin point this problem.
View 1 RepliesThe passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 Saturn SL1 that stalled and now will not start because it is not getting fuel. The odd thing is at the same time it stalled the turn signals and hazard lights quit working. Could this be an electrical issue? It will crank but not turn over.
View 1 RepliesMy car is a: 2005 Peugeot 407 SW v6 Automatic It´s a European model.
Suddenly stalled yesterday and has not started since.
Fault codes: P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276: Cylinder Injector Circuit Too Low
P0336: Crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit range/performance
So, it´s not getting fuel. So perhaps the fuel pump broke down? Tried looking for a fuel pump reset button but did not find one. Apparently my model does not have one. Any clues to what i could do?
It also has the following pending fault codes: P0444 P0477 P0076 P0082
The OBD display for the fuel system says: Open loop due to system failure.
2003 Excursion 7.3
There is fuel leaking from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine.
What things should I be looking for? I'm thinking injector? Is it easy to identify and replace?
So, the fuel pump was replaced in june after the tank was run dry and it wouldnt turn over. Everything went fine with the pump replacement, except for the lights were dim and there was a short in the taillights after the battery was put back in. I found a severed wire to the taillights, which seemed to fix some of the problem and was going to replace the bulbs for the dimness that night. Drove to work then was going to drive to the grocery store with the girlfriend and when we pulled out of the driveway the truck stalled. We restarted it and it stalled and turn on 2-3 back to back before losing all power. Took the bed off to see if i missed anymore wires but everything looked fine. We pushed it into the garage and when i went to put it into park, the lights flashed and went off. What could be causing this?
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