Camry :: 02 LE 2.4 I4 Engine Low Idle Speed And Vibration When Accelerate Around 50 Mph


Sep 18, 2015

02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.

right now, 175k miles

problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated

action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.

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I have been tackling my engines idle vibrations for a while now. Now that I noticed the engine also tilts when switching from N to D about 2 inches. Here are some specs and things I have done with little effect.2.4L engine, cleaned throttle body MAF sensor, checked and replaced spark plugs, PCV replaced, checked engine mount(visual inspection, no cracked rubber ) , idle at about 900rpm, and idle sometimes drops when no load is applied, that's when vibration gets worse, normal idle still gives vibration that can be felt on the seats...and you can see the seats vibrate...

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My 2011 Camry is giving very weird sound with vibration on every morning or whenever the engine is cold. I checked with 2 Toyota car dealers, they are saying, could not replicate this issue and car is normal. This is certified car bought 4 months before.

Camry vibrates only when it is Drive/Reverse gear. car is smooth when Neutral and parking.

When engine cold RPM stands in 1000+ (Vibrating)
When engine become normal RPM stays 600-700 (No vibration).

I just bought this car, selling this car now will be big loss.....

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I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?

Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Vibration At Idle When Slowly Accelerate

As said vibration at idle, as I slowly accelerate (in park) the vibration is worse at 1200 rpm, then keep slowly accelerating and at 1800 rpm completely goes away. Doesn't seem like a miss almost like a balance thing. Also when in gear and accelerating it doesn't seem to be there unless I just don't feel it when moving.

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 2.7L V6 GLS - Vibration At Highway Speed And Idle

I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.

Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)

In addition I have also had the following work done:

-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)

Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.

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Camry :: Vibration On Passenger Side When Car Reaches A Certain Speed (around 30-40 Mph)

I have a 2002 Camry (4 cylinders). About two weeks ago, I started to notice vibration on the passenger side of the car, front side, when the car reaches a certain speed (around 30-40 mph). At first I thought it was a wheel inbalance, so I took it to the Toyota Dealership and have them re-balance the wheels.

The problem, however, did not go away. I remember a while back after I got an oil change, the maintenance guy at the dealership mentioned that the motor mounts were going bad. Is it possible that bad/worn motor mount can cause vibration at certain speeds? The problem only occurs on the passenger side.

I do not notice vibration at idle (I think). I will have to drive the car again to double check this. But vibration is much more apparent when the car hits 30 mph+.

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Camry :: 2010 LE - Vibration While Driving At A Lower Speed

I have a 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L auto, with approx 35k miles. While driving between 65-75 mph (I don't drive above that, so I can't tell you if it keeps going), I get a slight vibration in the seat, floorboard, and steering wheel. If no one is in the passenger front seat you can look over and see the headrest and seat vibrating like a massage chair.

I had the wheels checked and three were bent (I bought it used, so I don't know how the wheels got bent). I had new aftermarket wheels installed, same 16 inch size as the OEM. That didn't fix it. I had the wheels/tires hunter road force balanced, found out the two in the back were out of spec. So I had brand new Michelin MXV4's installed all around and hunter road force balance. That didn't fix it (though it is a lot better -- clearly the bad tires and bad wheels were causing part of the problem).

I had the car aligned to perfection. That didn't fix it.

I had a rear brake that was rubbing so I replaced the discs and pads in the back, but that didn't fix it.

I've checked all the wheel bearings for any signs of being loose, but they don't shake at all when the car is jacked up.

I've checked the struts, both by bumping the car at the corners and a visual inspection, but see nothing wrong with them.

I've checked the CV shafts -- the boots are fine, there's no play in them, nothing.

I've taken the dogbone mount off and checked it -- no cracks.

I've taken apart the front brakes to check them. No problems there (they even have new discs).

I've checked the ball joints -- no play. I've checked the steering linkage -- no play.

There's no pulsation in the brake pedal.

If the car is vibrating at a lower speed, it's not noticeable. But once you hit about 65-70, it becomes obvious to the driver. I've had passengers in the car who didn't notice, but they aren't holding onto the steering wheel and pushing the gas pedal. Both give a massaging-like pulsation.

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Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?

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2008 ES350 with 170k miles. My wife drives the car almost exclusively but we went on a road trip and I had the opportunity to drive it for a few hours.

I noticed at idle there is a chirping sounds from the belt area like it could be a water pump or another pulley going out.

Other data points:

At speeds over 80mph I feed a vibration in the steering wheel. we are 1k over getting the tires rotated so that may clear this issue up.

low speed in a parking lot I had the wheel at full lock turning and it felt like it "slipped" and it made a noise. This made me think the power steering pump could be what is going out.

I need to check the fluid levels tonight and see if either is leaking ( there is nothing on the garage floor)

Are there any good DIY's for a waterpump or power steering pump replacement? Once I diagnose the problem I would like to fix it myself.

Are these common issues with the ES350?

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I got some issues with my f150 2009 supercab... 6,5 box 5.4 6speed 160k on it...

For the past 30 k my truck vibrates between 20/30 kmh when accelerating mostly when making a right turn and when engine is warm, feels just like driving with 4x4 and doing a u-turn....

I'll get the transmission flushed but didn't work (does shift smoother though). They said the u-joints were still good ,no play. I don't hear any strange noise either

In the last while i read a lot about trouble with the pinion angle/driveshaft/slip yoke and what all on the newer f150

Can I grease the slip yoke myself easily or? Is there a complete aftermarket driveshaft available that solves the problem permanently instead of temporary or would it be the transfercase? Cause i didn't buy this truck new so not sure if the transfer case oil ever got changed,or does it not need to be changed ever?

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1. Rear drums are warped which is the problem (I don't think so...)
2. Control arm bushings need replacement (coming from shop who did brake work before)
3. Ball joints need to be replaced
4. All rotors should be resurfaced

What should I do?

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2002 Camry LE 4cyl. automatic. I bought this car with 7500 miles on it in 2010. It had been involved in a low speed parking lot collision and apparently the left front corner and front took the hit. It'd been repaired and looked like new when I bought it. It still had the factory tires on it, but they were 8 years old, so I put a set of new Kumho Solus' on it. This was a friend's mothers car, so I know the history of it.

The left front suspension has always felt odd to me. Nothing serious, but just "off." When backing up and turning it has a sort of wobbly feel on that corner at times. I've been assured by several mechanics that they can find no problems. It feels to me like maybe sometimes the strut piston sticks on that corner. Don't know if that ever happens or not, but that's the best description I can come up with!

It has always vibrated from 45 on up. It's not a hard shudder, but just a constant vibration at highway speed that you can feel in your feet and the steering wheel. I've had it balanced and re-balanced to no avail. Sometimes it gets a little better, sometimes worse, but it's never gone away. Recently it seems to be getting worse.

I put it up on jackstands and accelerated to 60, and it vibrates like the wheels are out of balance. Yesterday I replaced the Kumhos (they had bad road noise anyway) with Michelins. The Michelins cured the road noise problems and have a much better overall feel, but I've still got the balance problem.

Just put it up on jackstands again and spun it up, and I still have the same vibration!

What to look for? The car has just now turned over 35k miles. I'm wondering if the CV joint on that left side was damaged and is causing the vibration. I've got new wheels as well instead of the factory steel rims. Also, with the car up on stands, the wheels spin true. No bent hub, etc.

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What is the correct idle speed for a 2004 LE 4-cyl J-car? Mine seems to be idling around 500, according to the image, below.

Seems a little low, and when I start out it seems a tad sluggish until is stabilizes from the low idle to operating speed. Almost sounds like a sewing machine when she idles.. How does one adjust idle speed if necessary.

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A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.

I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.

I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.

Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?

Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.

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Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).

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