Camaro :: 94 - Vehicle Seems To Take Lot Of Turning Over Before Start In The Morning
Mar 25, 2011
First thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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How do I turn off that Severe Weather alert when I start the vehicle? I remember reading the trick somewhere ... But cannot locate it now.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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This intermittent no-start problem has been going on for approximately three years. It seems to be related to the fuel pump not coming on. When the car won't start - it will sputter a little then the engine will just turn over (strong battery) but you can't hear the fuel pump. Took it to the Chevy dealer first time and they said it needed a new fuel pump with a $1,200 price tag. We said we wanted to get a second opinion and took it to an independent garage. It's been so long that we forget what he did - but he did not replace the fuel pump.
A few months later - car does the exact same thing again, sputter then no start. Finally we we agreed to replace the fuel pump - so out comes the rear axle, exhaust system and fuel tank to install the new pump. Couple of months later - sputter then no start. Towed back to independent garage again after a few days it started with out doing any work on it. Started every time for the 6 months it sat at the garage. Attempted to replace the anti-theft model with a used one and he could get the car to start at all - reinstalled old module and it started immediately.
Have had the car back for a month and it sputters quite a bit before running. Today, sputter and no start . . . had the car towed back to the house in hope that it will start without intervention like the last time it went to a garage. The security system idiot light does goes off with the other idiot lights. I'm guessing the sputter is the gasoline that was in the system the last time the engine ran - then when no more fuel is being supplied - it won't start. The independent garage says they are reluctant to install a new anti-theft module for fear it won't be the solution.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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I have a 1997 Camaro Z28 with 37,000 miles. A year ago it developed a problem of not starting after driving and being warmed up. The best description is when running errands, after the 2nd or 3rd stop, it will not start. If I let it sit for a couple of hours, then it will finally start, but I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. If it sits overnight, it starts like a brand new car. When the problem happens, the starter is engaging and the engine is cranking. I have had a mechanic spend hours trying to diagnose this and has had no luck, partially due to the intermittent problem. The car is an automatic, not a six speed.
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Have taken my 2004 CRV to the dealer 5 times over the last 6 months because I smell gas after turning the vehicle off. I mostly smell it when I get out of the car. The smell is coming from the gas tank area, but there are no visible leaks.
The dealer has smoked it, replaced the gas cap, replaced a fuel sensor, done pressure tests which were negative, and now is recommending replacing the entire fuel sending system, which I believe is the fuel pump and something else. I consulted a mechanic friend who take off the cover under the back seat which exposes the top of the tank and we put soapy water around the top of the tank where the fuel pump attaches while pumping air into the sealed off tank.
We were hoping that it might just be a bad gasket but there were no visible air bubbles. Now another mechanic is suggesting that I have a small leak in the seams of my gas tank and wants to drop the tank to see if there are signs of leakage. Seems like I keep spending more and more money on guesses.? I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of this car as I get headaches after driving for more than 20 minutes, not to mention the headache I have from having this problem drag on...
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[URL] .... (3-7sec mark & 19-21sec, most notable)
Low speed. As the vehicle decelerates or accelerates and is turning, a whine is emitted from , I think, the left front. It is intermittent, and today was not quite as loud as it usually gets. Guessing I should look for some rust build up. Volvo V50, 82000mi, 2005
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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70's Ford 4x4 truck. I'm getting a very noticeable --- but intermittent, doesn't happen every time -- metallic scraping sound when turning right at slow speeds. Coming from the rear of the vehicle. Like in neighborhood driving. No unusual sounds when going straight. For the past week the problem seems to have gone away, so I'm playing this one by ear. Hopefully whatever it was has gone away. But I'm ever the worrier.
when it happens, it sounds like if I dragged a big sheet of metal on the road behind the truck. I'm sort of suspicious this sound is from the rear limited-slip differential. Could it be the diff clutches are corroded? Coming loose from their moorings? A differential bearing on the fritz?
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How to go about turning off the signal flash when unlocking the vehicle? I grab the door and the signal flashes twice indicating unlocked, I do not like announcing to my neighbours every time I unlocked my car. My dealership tells me they do not know how? I was hoping there is a series of buttons to press or something like that. I have a 2012 base model (one).
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Earlier this morning when it was about 14 degrees F out, I got in my car to go to work. I noticed there was snow on the windows. In my early morning stupor, I thought it was light enough for the windshield wipers to remove. So as soon as I started my car with my foot pressing on the brakes, I immediately turned on the wipers--it was virtually done at the same time. I saw the wipers start to go up but struggled to lift the heavier-than-expected snow. Then I felt the brake pedal pushing back a bit and that's when the car dying down on me. A bunch of dashboard lights came on while other dashboard lights faded out.. Eventually, everything faded out.
The only light I remember that was on was on the Push Start button.
At some point, within a few minutes as I was trying to figure things out in this panic, I put the FOB key into the slot (it's usually kept in my pocket) and then I started my car as normal. I started up but I noticed everything dashboard light was on while it said my gas was near-empty (It was last seen last full).
I turned my car back off again. Then I turned it back on and, after a few strange dashboard lights switching on and off, my car started to resume normally. The gas tank was reading as expected.
After a few minutes of making sure everything was working just fine, I drove my usual 30 miles to work and here I am now trying to figure out why..
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Slight squeal while steering the vehicle to the limit of it's turning radius? I've just begun to notice this recently on my 07 GX... mainly when I'm pulling into a parking spot at slow speeds. Is this normal or should I have it checked out at Lexus dealer?
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
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Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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Recently, I have a weird issue on my car starting problem, 2005 I4. This happened after I replaced the upper engine mount (dog bone). When I left my car parked overnight and try to start in the morning, it makes a very slow start (Ruff Ruff noise). I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it starts. All the lights are still bright when I get to the car in the morning. The car has no issue at all when starts it during daytime or when I park car at work (about 8 hrs.). I checked and cleaned the ground terminals and make sure everything is tight.
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