I have a 96 Camaro that is rough when idling. However it isnt always rough sometimes I start it up and it will run great but other times it is very rough but only while idling. When I drive it and i starts rough I just turn it off and back on again and usually it will run fine the second or third time I do this. I have already ran a couple cans of Seafoam through it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
View 4 Replies96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 Dodge Stratus 4 cyl 2.4L, automatic.
It has been idling rough for a few months now. It feels just like it is misfiring. Tach confirms quick dip in rpm then return to normal idle. It has never actually stalled, just a quick rpm dip and subsequent shuddering, then recovers for a few seconds.
Also runs very rough, at 47-48 mph under light "cruising" load. Sounds crazy, but it does (did, see below) not happen at 45 or 50, just in the 47-48 mph range. Again, it feels like bad misfiring, with the car losing a lot of power and shuddering until I accelerate/decelerate away from this speed range.
NOW, over the last few days, the rough riding has gotten a lot worse, and occurs at all speeds. It is worse under load (mild acceleration, hills). Still feels like misfiring. Loss of power makes it hard to maintain speed up hills, at any speed. Also, today for the first time in its life the car backfired while trying to accelerate up a hill from a stop, at a speed of about 15 mph.
When idling, I can occasionally smell gas.
So, the coils are 2 years old, spark plug wires are 2 years old, spark plugs are 2 weeks old and air filter is 4 days old. Check engine light is NOT on and there are no error codes as of yesterday. Fluids are all good, except I am about the kick the stupid thing until it bleeds. Parts store suggested Idle Air Control Valve, but I am dubious, as this now happens at all speed.
2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
View 2 RepliesMy wife's car 95 Firebird formula a/c quit a few days ago. So far I've checked the charge and changed the high side pressure sensor, but the clutch will not engage. If I bypass the relay the clutch comes on and the a/c works. I've swapped out the relay with another one from my car that works and still no luck.
I've read through my 93 GM camaro service manual and it shows a low side pressure sensor next to the high side one. I've been all over under the hood of this car and there is no sensor that I see.
The security light does not come on the car will not crank. replaced ignition worked for a while. Now the buzzer showing the keys are in the ignition also will not work.
View 1 RepliesOnce in a while, I notice that my TDI has a rough idle. It feels more like a shake in the seat than rough idle. But I don't know how else to describe it. This usually happens at warm up- after driving about 5-10 minutes.
View 15 Repliesonce the eng is warmed up and i come to a stop with the brake pedal depressed, transmission in drive the engine idles down to~500 rpm and is rough. if i use the hand brake with it still in drive and remove my foot from the brake pedal idle speed increases and it runs smooth at ~750rpm, apply pressure to the brake pedal again and in a few seconds it's idling rough again. Runs strong in all other speed and load conditions. I thought it was a vac leak in the brake booster so I isolated(plugged) the vac line to the brake booster, and every other vac line but it makes no difference. I removed and cleaned the throttle body, no difference. The only thing that makes the idle smooth out when the brake pedal is depressed is if i remove the fuse for the horn/brake lights(found this out from another blog, but they never said if they were able to determine the reason/solution. Why would removing this fuse affect the idle? is there some type vac solinoid that's activated when the brake pedal is applied?
View 2 RepliesV6. Have a new a/c compressor and drier/accumulator to install. The box the compressor came in says "THIS PART CONTAINS NO OIL."
I will be taking the car in to a shop to get the a/c charged after I replace those components. What do I need to do to ensure the pump isn't damaged from the time I install it until it gets to the shop (which is about 10 min away). Towing is not an option.
I know about the cans of oil that you put into the low end side of the a/c system, but there is no negative pressure, so not sure if that would work...
I have issues that are drivin me crazy. Cooling fans not coming on. I was driving and smelled antifreeze, I immediately looked at gauge was at 210. So I stopped to check, right side of radiator was split. Put new radiator in waterpump and thermostat. As the car was running during the flush process it started spewing so shut it down gauge was 210. Plugged in Modus ran codes were none for overheat. The cooling fans are not coming on while car is running, but I can turn them on with the with the modus so fuses and relays are all good. The one thing that puzzles me why it works with modus but not by itself. If that's not enough started a couple weeks ago sometimes when hitting bumps loose power to windows, radio, convertible top, and then hit a bump and it starts working again. I have been all under the dash and hood checking connections and grounds to no end.
View 2 RepliesJust installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
View 3 RepliesTitle tells the story....also it seems that sometimes it does this when the brake pedal is depressed -- since it is a manual 5-speed, tho., often the brake pedal is not depressed at stoplights, etc. So, 2003, four-cyl., as I said, manual trans.
It's my husband's. He has been gone. I am driving the car for him while he is away. The car seems to have had this rough/low idle (according to the tach) with the A/C on for at least a couple of years. Idles O.K. if the A/C is not on.
He returns tonight. And, I have to pick him up at the Portland, Oregon Airport.
So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
It happens in the morning or on cold starts. The car has a rough idle and the throttle response is terrible. Its very sensitive and jerky. Could this be bad spark plugs? Its a 2006 2.0T and its had all the maintenance done.
View 5 RepliesI have a B5 99.5 AEB and having rough idling. Started the car in the morning seem fine. Later that evening started up again in a warm up idle and then the car shut off. Tried starting up again but took couple of minutes. Pumped the gas piddle started up but looking at the idle gauge needle was bouncing around. I don't think i have an vacuum leak.
View 2 RepliesI've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesI got an 800rpm rough idle, no serious lack of power, every time after filling up w/ gas she starts slowly (bout 3 secs) and then tries to die. she catches herself and revs from 400-1200 for about a minute, then drives away fine. Getting:
17544 - P1136 Bank 1 : System too lean
16825 - P0441 Evap ECS : Incorrect flow
16684 - Random/Multiple cyl misfire detected (intermittent)
16688 - Cylinder 4 : Misfire detected (intermittent)
Also have: 01039 - Coolant temp sensor(g2) : open or short to plus? (intermittent)
Doubt the last has anything to do with BIG problem, but my temp sensor on ly gets off 0 when i am moving and using A/C...is this going to cause issue now/later/ever?
I drove home Saturday morning from work with no issues. Car sat until Monday night and as soon as I had to stop at a light it was idling very rough where the rpms were jumping 3-400 up and down. I make it to work and on the way home I experienced the same idling issue along with some misfiring. I scanned and came up with the following codes. I have no CEL. I had my APR flash, Forge Intake, Turbo back exhaust all installed 2 and a half years ago. I have owned the car for four years never having replaced the DV or PCV. 87,000 miles.
10 Faults Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
012403 - Fuel Pump Circuit
P3073 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 -
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 002 - - Intermittent
000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 -
000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
I own a 2010 elantra. I'm going through plugs like crazy. I've changed it twice and the dealer has changed them twice for a total of 4 sets. I have 64000 Kms on my car. The problem is rough idle when ac is on. I'm assuming drag or load on the engine makes plugs work harder.. So the last two sets of plugs the dealer showed me the plug and the white spark plug casing was burned through? Kinda getting sick of the bandage approach the dealer is throwing at me. He said if it happens again which I'm sure it will they will sort it out in more detail to find the cause.
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