Camaro :: 1998 V6 - AC Compressor / This Part Contains No Oil
Feb 22, 2012
V6. Have a new a/c compressor and drier/accumulator to install. The box the compressor came in says "THIS PART CONTAINS NO OIL."
I will be taking the car in to a shop to get the a/c charged after I replace those components. What do I need to do to ensure the pump isn't damaged from the time I install it until it gets to the shop (which is about 10 min away). Towing is not an option.
I know about the cans of oil that you put into the low end side of the a/c system, but there is no negative pressure, so not sure if that would work...
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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How to reset the service engine soon light at home without hooking it up to a code reader. I've tried disconnecting the battery and that didnt work.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
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I have a 98 Buick Regal. When my air conditioning works, it is beautiful. On a hot and sunny day when I pull out of the garage, I can run the air conditioning until the car is turned off. After reaching a destination and parking in the hot sun the compressor will not blow cold air. If the day is overcast or cool, the air conditioning works fine. What the problem might be?
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
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This is a question in general about Fords. My 98 Ranger doesn't do it. He's got a 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0 with original factory a/c. He changed his compressor to a used one and it started running all the time whether the swtich was off or on. He said he switched back to his original compressor and it still does it. I figured it might be something common for Ford a/c systems so I figured I would ask. I'm not sure why it would be unless the mode switch was bad.
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Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
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I have a 96 Camaro that is rough when idling. However it isnt always rough sometimes I start it up and it will run great but other times it is very rough but only while idling. When I drive it and i starts rough I just turn it off and back on again and usually it will run fine the second or third time I do this. I have already ran a couple cans of Seafoam through it.
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My wife's car 95 Firebird formula a/c quit a few days ago. So far I've checked the charge and changed the high side pressure sensor, but the clutch will not engage. If I bypass the relay the clutch comes on and the a/c works. I've swapped out the relay with another one from my car that works and still no luck.
I've read through my 93 GM camaro service manual and it shows a low side pressure sensor next to the high side one. I've been all over under the hood of this car and there is no sensor that I see.
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The security light does not come on the car will not crank. replaced ignition worked for a while. Now the buzzer showing the keys are in the ignition also will not work.
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I have issues that are drivin me crazy. Cooling fans not coming on. I was driving and smelled antifreeze, I immediately looked at gauge was at 210. So I stopped to check, right side of radiator was split. Put new radiator in waterpump and thermostat. As the car was running during the flush process it started spewing so shut it down gauge was 210. Plugged in Modus ran codes were none for overheat. The cooling fans are not coming on while car is running, but I can turn them on with the with the modus so fuses and relays are all good. The one thing that puzzles me why it works with modus but not by itself. If that's not enough started a couple weeks ago sometimes when hitting bumps loose power to windows, radio, convertible top, and then hit a bump and it starts working again. I have been all under the dash and hood checking connections and grounds to no end.
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When my car idles the heater blows cold air but as soon as i throtle it up or drive off it starts blowing warm air, just bought the car the only thing ive checked so far is the coolant level wich is fine.
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First thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
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I was wondering if it was possible to swap the engine in a fifth generation Camaro with a less powerful one? Preferably an engine with 100-150 hp.
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I have a 91 RS 3.1 with a 5 speed that is not starting.
The problem started with the key not engaging the starter at all, a friend who is much better at electrical and we found the security relay switch behind the kick panel is not engaging on it's own. we manually engaged the switch and now the key will spin the starter but the engine is not firing up only spinning.
does the security relay switch control anything other than the starter engaging.
There is gas in the car. using a screwdriver and spark plug wire we have verified that we are getting spark.
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I have a 1984 camaro z28 305 that has problems with overheating. In temperatures below 70 degrees I don't have problems but above this temp I do. I put in a new radiator, thermostat, water pump (OEM), added an extra electric fan, and put the transmission on a seperate cooler. The engine was rebuilt a about 5 years and I think I had some problem with the over heating even before the rebuild. I park the car during the summer because I can't stand driving with the heat on in the middle of summer to keep the engine cooler.Would a high flow water pump work or what else can I look for?
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?
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My service engine light comes on after my camero has been running for a little while some times it takes about 1o minutes before it comes on it runs like there's no problems with it. I know there's a way to check it with a paper clip but I forgot what spots to put it in to get the codes. Its a 1989 camero r/s 305 tpi
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