Cadillac - Escalade :: 2009 - Shudder Going Uphill?
Sep 10, 2014
I own a 2009 Cadillac Escalade (no I don't write rap tunes) and for the past 5 years it has been an excellent vehicle to drive. It still is, but under certain conditions I am experiencing a shudder which lowers the confidence that I usually have in my vehicle. Specifically, when I am climbing a hill and the transmission is in a higher gear, say 4th and the RPMs are relatively low, say 1800, I feel a shudder as the car goes up the hill. When I let my foot off the gas the shudder stops. If I manually shift into a lower gear and raise the RPMs, the engine responds with power galore and I climb the hill without any effort and without any shudder (most of the time). The engine is smooth and is not sputtering when this shudder happens. I do not hear any unusual sounds under the car when this happens.
I took it to the GM dealer and they did all they could (analyzed the car for codes, monitored fuel flow rates, searched for GM bulletins, etc) but their response was "we experienced the shudder but cannot find the issue - bring it back when it gets worse". I read that BG44K will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system in the engine so I tried that but nothing changed. I have about 50K miles on the car and did my 50K maintenance just before a cross-country trip; on the way back from this long trip is when this issue started. The 50K maintenance included changing the transmission fluid and cleaning the filter (not replacing it), changing the differential oil, the transfer case oil, engine oil and filter, inspecting the vehicle, etc. I will continue to drive the vehicle and will bring it back to the dealer if it gets worse, but I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do if it never does and I continually experience this shudder. Or what happens if it gets worse all of a sudden and I'm unable to drive the car up a hill at all?
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2005 Escalade-rear tail lights-water in tail assembly. Bulbs blew. Replaced bulbs. Will not come on when I turn on headlights. They do come on when you depress the brakes and when you use the hazards or signals.
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I have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
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I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
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My 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
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My 2009, 6 cylinder, 3.6, AWD Caddy CTS with 175K miles as started to have steering problems. No squealing or funny noises, just very hard to steer, at low speeds and high speeds. Ocassionally it is fine but most of the time very hard, esspecially at low speeds, trying to park and things like that. My question is : how can I tell if its the power steering pump or the steering rack or maybe, and hopefully just a relay or fuse before I bring it to get repaired. If I know its the pump I can just get a peplacement from rock auto and bring it to my local mechanic and save a ton of money. If its the rack I'm stuck taking it to the dealer and losing my house to pay for it.
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So the LX and Landcruiser have shared platforms over the year but I've always wondered why Toyota / Lexus never released a stretched version of the trucks like an Escalade ESV or Yukon XL, etc? I know the trucks currently seat 8 people but the 3rd row is a little tight except for little kids. Also, if you have the 3rd row up, then the trunk space is all but gone. For example, with the Escalade ESV, with the extended version, the seats in the 3rd row are laid out just a little better than the 3rd row in the shorter truck version so it's a little more comfortable. And the trunk space in the stretched version is way more than the normal version.
Of course, the Escalade is not sold in other countries where it's seriously taken off road. I know that it's mainly a US vehicle that roams the crazy parking lots of many upscale malls whereas the Land Cruiser / LX570 is primarily the same in the US but it's also sold in many foreign countries where it really is used off-road and having a stretched version is not really the best for off-road maneuvering. Even so, I think Toyota/Lexus would sell more of these vehicles if they did develop a stretched version. Maybe call it a Landcruiser XL or LX570 XL..
Actually if Toyota made a stretched version, I'd say calling it a Land Bruiser would be more appropriate. I certainly would love an 8 seater LX 570 with the larger trunk area and possible better sitting space with the stretched version. Couple this with the Lexus quality and reliability and Lexus would give the Escalade ESV some decent competition.
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I've taken my Traverse in to the shop twice now and they can't seem to find the problem - it misses going up gentle grades, especially when on cruise control and higher speeds. First they said timing belt, then spark plug wire, but it's happening again and I'm about to take it back in. The last time they test drove it and they said they couldn't duplicate the symptoms but I think they didn't take it out for long enough of a test.
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Have towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
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I will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
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Been suffering some take off shudder as well as the 55mph shudder and finally took the truck into the dealer who informed me it is throwing a couple of misfire codes (no CEL). Quoted for spark plugs. Looking around the boards, seems a lot of people are seeing premature wear on the ecoboost plugs and have had success regapping or replacing. Any words from 5.0L owners? What are the odds they just need regapped? I'll probably just replace them anyway, but its a good discussion. Also are they are simple to replace as it looks- just pop the coil packs off and they are there in the valve covers?
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I installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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Just pick up a 2010 FX4 with the 5.4. Noticed at idle with the A/C on 75% of the time my truck is shuddering at idle. If i turn the A/C off it goes away. Common sense is that i know the the A/C draws a lot from the engine but have a shudder like that? The P/O's ESP transferred to me so i can take it in if need be.
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Extended cab ecoboost 2x4. Shudders as I come to a stop while in 1st gear. Feels like it's something to do with the transmission. Haven't taken it in yet. Not towing/hauling.
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New start for an old problem. 2010, F-150, 5.4, 5.5' bed. Truck is new to me, used 105K miles. Love the truck, got it to tow TT I was having trouble towing with a shorter wheel base vehicle. Has HD towing package, tows great, good power, stable. First trip out with the TT the ole Shudder in 2nd gear low speed reared it's ugly head. I did do the slip joint re-lube with Ford wonder grease.
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I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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I just got a 2009 Corolla S back in October. Everything is great so far. Until last weekend when I was driving uphill on the streets of San Francisco where I noticed there's a distinct burnt rubber smell coming from the right rear wheel.
Have this issue after driving on a steep climb? My first oil change is coming up soon and I'll mention this for sure with my dealership. I checked the web and the forums here and nobody have seem to mention it yet. I have an auto transmission by the way.
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