Cadillac - CTS :: 2006 - Jumps When Accelerating Under Load
Jan 12, 2015
I have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
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My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
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My cady hesitates from stop when accelerating just initially and then runs fine while driving. I have changed plugs, electronic ing, wires cap, rebuilt carb fuel filter. What can be causing this???
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I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX with a manual trans. It's a fly-by-wire system. When accelerating and shifting, the tac momentarily jumps various hundreds of RPMs when the clutch is in. That used to mean you weren't coming off the gas when the clutch was in. I've been driving manual trans cars for 45 years. I know how to shift. But, it was a new car, so maybe... I paid close attention and was not screwing up the shifts. Apparently the computer doesn't realize the clutch is in and the gas pedal has been released. Is this normal for these cars? Is it a problem? (other than wasting a half thimble full of gas and over-reving the engine?)
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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We've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
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Cold starts only (warm starts completely fine), typically the rpm jumps to 2k or so then slowly climbs down as engine warms up. However recently one in ten start ups the rpm will jump to 2k then immediately drop to 1.5k (sounds like a drop in rev engine) or so. Engine does not shake or stall and still starts fine. Throttle body is cleaned and spark plugs were all replaced. However I cannot remember if this started happening before throttle body was cleaned or if its not related with it at all. Battery is fine too or according to battery charge test. I don't see any loose hose that were taken off while getting to throttle body. I recently tried fuel injector cleaner but didn't make much difference (only 1 application though).
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Could not find anything about this on a search. I have 2 Sonatas. An 08 and an 09 both are 4cylinders. The 09 was purchased used in June of this year. With the colder weather setting in I have noticed that the 09 when started from cold jumps to 2500 rpm and settles to around 1000rpm for a short time then slows down a bit more to what I think is the normal idle speed. My 08 never goes that high and settles down to a normal idle quicker. If I read correctly the 08 and 09 have different air metering systems. Is this idle thing normal or am I dealing with an issue?
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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My 2006 Cadillac misfires when I attempt to accelerate. My mechanic doesn't know what to do?
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My F250 6.4, 3.73 Crew Cab Short bed vibrates when accelerating from a stop with my 5th wheel on. The 5th wheel weighs 12K. It is a medium to high frequency vibration that is felt throughout the entire truck. It continues through the shift into 2nd (TorqueShift Tranny). The harder you accelerate the more you feel it.
It does not occur if truck is unloaded and you accelerate at full throttle. Is this normal or should I get it looked at?
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The car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
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Bought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
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I am yet another sufferer of the 40mph vibration syndrome I commonly read about on this site. I have had my 2006 f350 club cab sd to the dealership about 7 times for this, and now am being told it is a normal characteristic of this truck. They have replaced wheels, tires, vibration machine analyzed, put on a vibration damper, etc., but nothing fixes the problem. It has done it since the day I drove it home.
How many of you out there are upset about their super duty that jumps up and down at certain speeds? Lately, my dealership has had my truck more than me. From the amount of posts I see about this problem, I am certainly not alone. Ford is now trying to brush me under the carpet, yet I have a truck with a built in gyrator that is totally unacceptable. The truck now has about 20,000 miles of bouncy misery on it, and it isn't getting better.
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We have with our 2007 Elantra popping out of gear under load. The car started doing this at about 110000 ks and its getting worse. It looks like it will cost about 2 to 3k to fix or replace with a second hand one.
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Daughter's 09 Accent 86k miles making a very quick hiss when accelerating rapidly and/or uphill about a half second before first shift. Hiss stops noticeably before the shift happens. She reports a slight 'kickback' in the pedal, but I noticed no power loss when the passenger seat. No check engine light. Car has an aftermarket cruise. Sound seems to be coming from the right-ish side of the vehicle and outside the cabin. Doesn't occur under 'grandpa' driving conditions. Pretty much only when using the accelerator as a binary switch.
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Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
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My 2006 Sonata has 63K miles and today started jerking (Hunting) after about 10 miles. Here is what I know. It starts on a level run and disappears when on an incline, but as soon as the crest is reached, and on the downside, it starts hunting again. When it is jerking, around 55 to 60 mph, I switch the transmission lever to Autostick and it stops, back into drive again and it starts again. This is so repeatable there has to be a connection. EVERY time I switch to Autostick the jerking stops, end when I put it back into drive, it starts again. The jerking is severe enough that it is easily detectable. It appears that when the transmission is under load, like going uphill, the jerking stops.
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My wife has an 06 Mountaineer with a V8 and we have been having a problem with hesitation when the engine is placed under a load. The problem occurs most often when the transmission is in overdrive and the engine goes under a load such as driving up an incline at cruising speed. The engine begins to shudder much like a misfire but disappears when the trans kicks down a gear. The check engine light will flash momentarily but it never sets a hard code that I can read.
I have AutoEnginuity scan tool but there are never any codes. I've driven the vehicle with the scanner hooked up and there is never a misfire noted. The car has 96000 miles with, presumably, the original plugs. I'm aware of the potential problems with attempting to change these plugs. Where to look? I don't want to "hang parts" such as mass air flow or throttle position sensor. I've been hoping that the problem would progress to the point that a hard code would be set but none has yet.
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Today I drove my 2006 G2 Prius with 59,000 miles to the park and had the windows down. I climbed a hill for a good while that had the engine under load and there was a concrete wall beside me, and I could hear a very very faint metallic-like rattle. I mentioned it to my partner who listened and said he couldn't even hear it, so maybe it is just me.
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