Cadillac - Brougham :: 1985 - Won't Shift Gears At Lower Speeds
Jul 18, 2014
I have a 1985 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I bought it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years and the fuel pump needed replaced, no problem. It ran fine for about 2 weeks after getting it fixed, then it started giving me problems. The transmission seemed to be having issues shifting gears at lower speeds, but acted fine once I got up to 55+. The mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 4 mpg. It started stalling out whenever my foot wasn't on the gas, and then finally it quit running altogether.
I had a mechanically inclined family member take a look and he said it seemed to be starving for gas but other than that he had no idea, it tries to start but can't turn over. In the past year I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and fuel injectors replaced but I'm not sure what else to look at. I'm hoping it isn't the transmission, we all know how expensive those are.
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I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
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My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
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New to the R, and recently the transmission seems to be making some noise throughout lower gears at low speeds, when the clutch is engaged the noise goes away, I figured it was the throwout bearing, but now my transmission now refuses to let me into 2nd gear and also reverse.
I changed the transmission fluid hoping it would eliminate the noise a bit, and saw very small metal shavings in the old fluid. I'm now worried I have a serious transmission issue... Are these signs of major transmission issues or should I be checking linkage? Any common transmission problems with the R I might be experiencing?
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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My 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
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My 1985 BMW 635, standard transmission suddenly developed shifting problem. It will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th gear. It will shift into reverse,2nd and 4th gear. The car is not driven on any frequent schedule, infrequently. I can't remember the last time the transmission oil was changed.There has not been any mechanical distress,grinding of gears,etc. you just cant engage those gears. They all are moving the shifter from neutral to a up position. Is it possible that sludge could be blocking the movement of the synchronize r?
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My 85 300 cid with a C6 trans won't shift out of first. Seems like this happened several years ago and it was a vacuum diaphragm or something like that. Is this user fixable or do I need a transmission shop to look at it?
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I've been experiencing a low rumble/chatter type noise only at extemely low speeds in conjunction with turning the vehicle (as you would in a parking lot). You can also 'feel' this noise to a slight degree on the steering wheel. This event happens going forward or in reverse. Additionally, it seems to be coming predominantly from the rear of the car. This has been going on for several months. My mechanic has ruled out any recall notices, tires, and brakes. He suspects it may be the drive train?
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Well I Took my truck (1985 F250 6.9L IDI C6) and went through a little mud bog got some water in the tranny, no biggy i flushed the fluids out a couple times and went to drive it. But now it wont shift from 1st to 2nd but i can manually shift it from 1-2 I replaced the Modulator and that havent made a difference. Is there anything I should look into?
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Ok so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
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I have a 1999 Cadillac Deville. when you start the car, it must warm up and then a signal appears on the dashboard that says to depress brake pedal and shift into gear. HOWEVER, after the message appears and I depress the brake pedal, it still will not shift. Now I have the world's largest paperweight sitting in my driveway, because I cannot even get it to a repair facility. What is wrong, How do I fix it?
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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Recently with the rain and snow my truck has started missing but only around 2,000 rpm in lower gears. its a 1996 chevy k1500, it has new plug wires spark plugs and new distributor cap and rotor. When its dry outside it runs fine and everything is tight so I'm thinking it has to be the tower or coil.
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For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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Lately I have noticed that the transmission is not shifting smoothly in the lower gears. I have 114K on there. Spoke to my service manager and he mentioned that it may need calibration. Doesn't sound right after all the miles?
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Been having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
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I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
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I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
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I've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
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