I'm going to be freshening up my distributor for my 1950 Cadillac, and I think because of bad weather stripping and other leaks, when it rains heavy, moisture might be getting on the distributor. Is there something I can spray on it that will repel moisture or would just a healthy dose of dielectric grease do the trick?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1950 GMC truck that I restored with a 350 small block v8 with a stock set-up. I now have 30K on the motor and it runs great except for one problem: The module in the HEI distributor keeps failing. The mileage between failures is random: 3k, 5K, 8K. I have now put in 8! I pull the module out and test it: Yep, cooked. I have replaced the cap, coil, and alternator. I think the distributor is not grounded properly. There is no tach attached to it. What is the source of problem? Should I just replace the whole distributor and hope for the best?
View 18 RepliesIs there a safe way to remove rust from a cooling system? It's on a 1950 cadillac that's all cast iron with a copper radiator. I'm pretty certain the coolant passages in the engine are plugged up from rust. I took off the rad hoses and rinsed everything out until it ran clear, but I've done this before and the car still runs hot.
View 1 Replies1950 cadillac - standard drums on all 4 corners.
I put new wheel cylinders on each drum, and replaced the drivers front hose, as it was clogged. The passenger side I left because it works and doesnt leak. I've cleaned all the brake surfaces, shoes and drums, and bled everything.
When I brake, and only when I brake, the front right makes a grinding noise and the car pulls to the right.
I tried tightening the star wheel today to bring the shoes inward in hopes that would equalize brake pressure up front, but when trying again today, I got that grinding sound still.
There is no scoring or gouges on the shoes, drum, and the inner and outer ball bearings seem fine - round chrome balls with no discoloration, no gouges on the spindles. Granted I don't drive this far at all, especially now that I have this grinding.
How can I really tell if its the ball bearings? It only makes the grind when I am on the brakes.
My 2009 4.6 makes this clattering noise that kinda sounds like there's moisture in the distributor, but obviously there's no distributor. It only comes from the passenger side around the floor board. It only really does it when accelerating. I think its an exhaust leak. I know that the injectors make a tapping sound. It's in addition to that.
View 5 Replies93 fleetwood - bought new - sounds like water sloshing around behine the radio in the a/c ducts. also when fan is on, it blows out fog, like moisture in vents/ducts. is this a water drain/hole plugged up allowing water to flow where it isn't suppose to. i can picture water flowing out of the vents in a heavy rain.
View 1 Repliesi have been restoring a 1950 dodge b2b pickup. engine was rebuilt. electrical redone. brakes redone. was starting before i began electrical replacement. all wiring replaced and everything working. But now the engine just turns over and over but won't start. I've checked starter, battery, spark, fuel pump and carburetor. Timing may be off because bolt holding distributer was loose without me knowing it. What do i do next?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
Anyway I have a 88 s10 blazer that will not start, I've replaced fuel pump, filter, charcoal canister, also the rotor, cap, plug wires, module, pick up coil and ignition coil. Before I changed the pickup, it would start till it warmed up then die, wouldn't start again unless I gave it gas, if I held it steady the rpm would fluctuate but stay running till I let go of the throttle. Now that I've replaced the pickup coil it turns over, I do have spark but it will not start. I bought a code reader all I'm getting is code 12 which is no distributor signal to ecm. Like I said I e replaced both the module and pick up coil.
View 2 RepliesMy car was running perfectly, then one day I parked into my home and that was the last time it started. A mechanic came by and showed me that the distributor was not creating a spark and that I needed a new distributor. I bought one at a junk yard which looked much newer than mine but when we installed it, no spark. I went back and replaced the distributor for another at the same junk yard and the same thing happened, no spark.
I live in a very remote small town and this is the best mechanic that I have found, but they are not sophisticated, no real shops, diagnostic equipment, etc. After going through the expense, trouble, and having my mechanic tell me that it may be the computer, I decided to investigate myself and read a problem that appeared similar to mine indicating that it may be possible that the Crank Position Sensor may be bad.
This is what I read on a post on a different forum: "The first thing I would do is to check out and thest the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this has shorted internally, you may have destroyed the IGNITION MODULE and or the COMPUTER. You might be lucky in that the crank sensor is the only faulty item."
I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
View 3 Replieshow long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
View 4 RepliesI have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 k1500 with the 5.0 L in it. I suspect the distributor drive gear is worn, and even if its not it isn't going to hurt anything to replace it because its the original OEM drive gear and the engine has 233k miles on it. So what I'm looking for step by step process removal and re installation?
View 2 RepliesMy 94 Honda Accord's distributor runs with the ignition switch off. Car will not start. Does this with master relay and 50 amp ignition fuse removed.
View 9 RepliesMy jeep wont start if I tighten the distributor bolt, it will start and run fine if i leave the distributor loose. Has been running that way for 2 years and i just was wondering what would cause that kind of problem... 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo inline 6 ....
View 3 RepliesI drive a 1970 Jeep Cj5 which I've dubbed, "The Red Bucket" because, well, it's red (duh) and because of its complete lack of doors, top, roll cage, and a folded down windshield. Anyway, I drove it to work about 2 days ago. Started fine, drove fine, no problems. When I came back from work it started fine. As I drove down the parking garage, the engine, a Buick Dauntless v6, just stopped. it didn't really even sputter either, just stopped, leaving me rolling down the garage with no power steering.
Now, at this point, I just though I had flooded it, happens all the time so I figured, "Hey, no big deal." If I've flooded it good, I normally only have to wait about 10 minutes till it springs back to life. However, after 10 minutes, 20 minutes, and 30 minutes, I was forced to call home to get a ride. Now I am a little worried, but I shrug it off thinking I have just flooded it really, really, really, bad. I drive up the next day to try and start it again, but only to find it in the same condition as the day before, starter turning, lights working, but still nothing.
Now, my knowledge of cars really doesn't go any farther than YouTube. I'd consider myself a "car guy," but I am no mechanic. That being said, based on my knowledge of distributor caps, my current hypothesis is that for whatever reason my distributor cap is not functioning. To go into more detail, there is starter noise, but no vibration or noise from pistons beginning to move and fire. Also, roll starting did not work and I am not out of gas, good thoughts though.
my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
View 5 RepliesRecently I went to a mechanic for an oil change and they told me that my "distributor was leaking externally" and I need to get it replace or the oil will corrode the sensor and heating bypass hose. They showed me the distributor and I did see dried oil/grease on the silver metal part of the the distributor. They told me it will cost $270, against my better judgment I agreed to it. When everything was done I asked for the old part back and they said no but after several minutes arguing I got my part back. I am very suspicious and I don't think that I actually need to get the ignition distributor replaced. Also they got the distributor from a Chinese company called World Power System. I would like to know if I got scam.
2000 Honda Accord LX 2.3L 90K miles...
Since the 2150A was computer controlled it has no ported distributor vacuum advance port, correct?
If you have a distributor with vacuum advance and a 2150A carb, where do you connect the advance to if not the carb?
Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).