C/K :: Restoring 1970 Chevy C10 - Drum Brakes Not Coming Off
Mar 21, 2016
I've begun restoring my grandpas 1970 Chevy c/10 but I can't seem to get the brake drums to budge. I tried several cans of lubricant and even beat on one with a sledge hammer till the outside broke off. But the front face of the drum still won't come off. How to remove them?
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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We have a 2002 Malibu with 216,000 miles. Car in excellent condition and always garage kept. We have used the same mechanic for many years until this year when he closed his shop. We do plan to replace the car next year, but it's just not necessary to do so just yet.
A couple of month ago someone rear ended me and the body shop replaced the trunk weather stripping, rear bumper, light assemblies, repainted the trunk/bumper/rear side panels.
Several weeks ago, while hubby was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed every time the brake is pressed the backup lights come on too. I then checked turn signals, all other lights, etc. Everything else appears normal except this oddity.
I took it back to the body shop and told them what was happening and said it had to be something done during the repair work. He checked and said everything was hooked up correctly and I needed to take it to a mechanic because it wasn't anything they did.
I have researched and researched and found several other people with this problem. One answer was that the new light assembly was after market and the "pins" were not compatible with the original wiring harness. Another was that the wiring harness coming from the trunk was somehow damaged.
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I didn't put the rear drum on while adjusting the rear brakes, now the drum wont go back on because the brakes are too far out. How do I get my drum back on! This is on a 2002 Camry LE
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I bought a 2012 Corolla S and I feel that the rear brakes are a little cheap. Has swapping brakes but how?
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I have a 2000 CR-V with rear drum brakes that make quite a bit of noise. When I press the brake pedal, they make a noise like the shoes are grinding on something other than the drum itself. Also, when I press the pedal at the right amount of pressure at the right speed, I get a loud high pitched squeal as if there's a metal tab rubbing on the drum. I did this brake job with my dad about 6,000 miles ago (154xxx miles now) including the front pads. We did everything right and bled the brakes VERY thoroughly.
We used the same drums as before (however, we replaced the front disc rotors) and everything is how it should be. I even adjusted the shoes' pressure on the drum a bit to see if it would stop. Also, the squeal noise seems to be worse when I haven't driven the car for about 2 hours or in the morning when it's colder and the brakes haven't been used in several hours. What's causing these noises?
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My 1963 Holden has drum brakes all round. The fronts had always been a problem pulling and shuddering. I have had the drums machined and fitted new shoes and adjusted them up correctly. The shoes are the correct fit in the machined drums.
They are now working really well when cold. Once they heat up I am getting a bit of shudder, nowhere as bad as before but still annoying. No longer pulling to any great extent. My question is, why would the shudder only happen after driving for a while and the brakes warm up?
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Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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Changing rear drum brakes to discs? I've done it with my 94 explorer, and i was wondering if the axles are the same, just swap the hardware like the explorers are.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I've got a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.8L engine. There's a sound coming from under the hood that sounds like a drum roll on a piece of hard plastic. No noise on idle or revving the engine while parked. Noise starts upon accelerating, seems to disappear in second gear (automatic trans), reappears in 3rd gear, disappears in 4th. Appearance and disappearance isn't consistent but seems to disappear when the engine shifts up and the rpms drop. No check engine light.
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Backing up the map SD card (16GB micro SDHC class 4) and restored it to a new card? I tried and failed using Windows 7; the card has 11+ GB in over 30K files. Nav. showed "Can't read map card" message. (This is on a new 2015 Prius V Five.)
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I have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes.
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I have a 2007 Chevy HHR. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the caliper on the driver's side of the car. I had some squeaking after, but bled the brakes and the squeaking went away. The other day I took the caliper off and painted it. I have custom wheels and you can see the caliper plainly, it was rusted so I painted it. Now I am getting the squeaking again, but it stops when I apply the brakes. I bled them again, but still the squeaking. This is driving me crazy. Could it be the "chirper" that is dragging on the rotor? Also I want to add, it squeaks until I get up to about 45 mph. Then it stops. And as I said, it stops when I apply the brakes.
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My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
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Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
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i have a chevy venture and it was running just fine untill this morning it started to have a good amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and is running rough i took it to the autozone and had the codes checked since i let someone borrow my code reader but when i went there and had it done i got 5 codes out of it and they are....
p0300
p0301
p0463
p1106
p1189
What happened to it since it was running just fine all yesterday and before...
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu LS. Occasionally, my theft system light will come on when I start my car. I usually have to wait 10 minutes until it deactivates. I don't understand why it does this!
image.jpeg2448x3264 1.3 MB
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