C/K :: Engine Stumbles After Only Holding Down Throttle Slightly Longer Than 5 Seconds?
Aug 8, 2012
recently I've been having this problem with my '90 C1500 305. The engine stumbles after holding down the throttle slightly for any time longer than 5s and then releasing, like if I apply the gas lightly to slowly roll up to a light. When i let off the pedal, it will stumble then recover after a second. Sometimes its so bad it almost stalls.
There is no stumbling after heavy throttle inputs. Not sure what causes this.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
Is there an alert setting to signal when a regen starts? My engine stumbles badly a few seconds after a regen starts. The dealer hasn't found the problem. Right now I just keep an eye on the soot level gauge.
View 14 Replies
My hatch no longer holds itself up, it sags then slowly starts to close, I guess I need to replace the arms or shocks, not sure what they are called, what options do I have on these apart from the dealer?
unrelated question, do you ever need to change the Transmission fluid on a 2007 passat 2.0T Auto? Dealer says no, making sure.
View 5 Replies
2012 Prius with 10K miles.
One of the features I really like over the '06 Prius is the ability of the cruise control to hold the set speed on downhills (until the battery fills up and it switches to compression braking "B" mode, but that's a different topic).
After taking it in for the 10K mile service, it no longer engages regenerative braking on downhills with cruise control set. This is on the same hills where previously it would hold speed.
Did Toyota do a software upgrade that disables this feature?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 Honda CRV with 139,000 miles that recently developed a miss. It usually does it while holding steady at 50 mph but only lasts for a couple seconds. If it misses may do it once or twice and then nothing the rest of the day. Had the dealership put it on the computer for a reading and they said it's showing no misfires and is running properly. Plugs have been changed other maintenance performed and have had absolutely no issues until now.
View 3 Replies
2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
View 2 Replies
On Friday morning the 2004 Prius with approx 140k miles started normally. It over-revved slightly for about 10 seconds while driving a short distance, but was fine on the return trip home an hour later.
View 10 Replies
I drove my daughter's Dodge Neon last night and found that when I'm on the highway, the RPM goes up slightly every few seconds. I had about 30 minutes of driving until I was home so I tried to figure out if my speed had anything to do with it.
It doesn't happen when I decelerate or am at an idle. When I'm on a flat stretch of highway and using the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase. I didn't notice the feel of the engine changing, I heard the engine speed up a bit.
What kind of problem is this? The car has 109,000 miles on it.
View 11 Replies
My 2005 Prius is 6 and a half years old and I have encountered a problem with an outside alarm that is one beep about 2 seconds long. I have checked my manual and I have found two possibilities, but, they don't seem to apply. Last week was the first time I had to go in and reset my maintenance needed reminder because my service station forgot to reset it after the last oil change. I am afraid in the severel attempts to do this I might have reset something else as well!
The outside 2 second beep occurs when the car is in my garage and the car is NOT locked. It also only occurs if I am outside of the car and have the key fob with me. It happens with either key fob near the car. If I lock the car I don't have a problem. It is as if everytime I come near the car with my key fob that it is reminding me that the car is unlocked.
View 9 Replies
My S10 started downshifting at highway speeds when I slightly let up on the throttle. It only starts after driving 20 or 30 miles down the road. (gets hot?) It also hesitates slightly starting from a dead stop as well after that. I dropped the pan, cleaned it up and added new fluid. There was a fine powdery sludge on the magnet in the pan, but no metal shavings. It is still doing the same thing.
It has 95,500 miles on it. 2.2 motor. The fluid was low a couple weeks ago. I added a bottle of conditioner. Don't remember the brand name. 2 reservoirs in the bottle so it mixes as you pour it in. It started acting up 7 days ago.
View 1 Replies
My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
View 3 Replies
From cold, I start the van up, and if I just slightly crack the throttle it will start running rough. I think it goes away under heavier throttle...might just be that the rpms are up I can't feel it anymore, I don't know. It will idle just fine, and after it warms up it also seems fine. Where to look?Also I sometimes hear a very small, high pitched, vacuum leak from under the hood. What are the most common items that go bad, that I should look at first?
View 4 Replies
Having throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
View 4 Replies
Worked with the 6.0s on my ambulances at my station but this is my first personal diesel. Starting about a week ago my 2006 F350 with 88k started having longer cold cranks, around 10 seconds with some hiccups on the way. I checked the FICM Voltage with a multimeter and on my scan gauge II, it has not gone below 47 volts. I am above the 500psi on the ICP, and around 35% on the IPR Duty cycle. The FICM is also synced. I know this is a big topic with these 6.0s but normally one of these things are an issue, where as mine are in normal range.
View 6 Replies
I have 57K miles on my 1.8t. It runs great except for the first start of the day. About half of the time, first thing in the morning it runs rough for the first 30 seconds. Like it is running on 2-3 cylinders. Then it sorts out and runs great the rest of the day. I took it to my dealer where they charged me $200 to replace the spark plugs. I would prefer to fix this myself if I can.
View 2 Replies
Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
View 12 Replies
95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
View 3 Replies
I own a 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4 Automatic with the 4.0l V6. I bought the truck a little over two years ago with 150k miles. The Engine had alway had a slightly rough idle and I never really noticed until a friend pointed it out at around 170k. Every time the pump engages after a short warm up period there is a distinct stumble in the engine, although it never stalls or trips a check engine light. I have replaced the spark plugs with four prong pre gapped Bosch platinum plugs and new plug wires as well. I have installed an Optima red top battery that tests at 1100cca and have tested the voltage draw when the AC engages and it only drops .2 volts from 14.48v to 14.24v. I thoroughly cleaned the MAF sensor and before changing plugs I ran a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner through the throttle body to clean out carbon deposits and dirty throttle body. The engine still stumbles. Yesterday at 182k I disconnected the low pressure switch on the AC pump and boom, smooth low idle with no stumble. What could be wrong with the AC pump that could cause this stumble in the engine?
View 12 Replies
I am 2nd owner of 98 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V6SOHC. Vehicle is almost showroom condition w/ 70,000 miles and properly maintained.
Problem: engine seems to stumble quite frequently and is most noticeable when ambient temp is above 60*. Highway speeds , 40MPH doesn't matter. RPMS drop but it has completely shut down only twice in the last 9 months.
There are no codes. Plugs and wires changed several months ago, fuel pressure checked by Ford and it's ok, injectors cleaned at dealer, MAF seems ok so I am at a loss. Since there are no codes diagnostics don't work. Except for the issue above, this is a very nice reliable vehicle.
View 13 Replies
I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
View 1 Replies
