C/K :: Code 43 On 1994 1500 Chevy - Rough Idle
Jan 11, 2007
I am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
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97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.
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can i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
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When the car is idle it makes a loud noise,also it revs like 1500 and accelerates on its own. What the problem could be? 1994 mercury cougar 3.8 ....
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I have a 97 Chevy K1500 truck that i have been having problem with starting. Sometimes it will start. When it does the idle is rough. When i put in in gear it almost acts like it will shut off. Then it comes back and it drives fine. If it shut it off it may or may not start. I had the distributor cap a rotor replaced. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does not start. It seems like it is getting too much fuel. I pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck would start then die out. When i put the relay back in truck does not start. I am not sure what might be the next piece to look at. I was thinking the MAP sensor or the throttle position sensor. So far i have not had any codes come up.
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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I'm having a problem with my 6.0 back in September I started to notice a little miss with some black and white smock while accelerating so I took the truck to a power stroke specialist near my house to have it diagnosed they said my number 5 injector was starting to go bad so just this last week I finally got up enough money to get the injector changed I got the truck back yesterday from the mechanic. While driving I get a lot of shaking right around 1500 to 2000 rpms when I let off the accelerator it smooths out if I mash on it and keep the RPMs above 2000 it smooths out the truck still has a lot of power no check engine light has ever been on through this whole ordeal and there's a rough idle I guess the best way to describe the shacking would be if the truck was a standard shift and you were pulling a hill in to hi of a gear.
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My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?
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Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
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I have a 1994 chev Blazer S 10. that has thesy troubles. when it warms up it runs high and hot exhaust and ruff idle. with a hot cat. Replaced EGR carbon build up at times.replaced fuel pump, and all the senors under the hood. Still runs the same.
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94 Ford Ranger 2.3L
I started to have a slightly rough idle a while back, but not severe. I figured she was just aging a bit.
Changed plugs. Check engine light came on. Changed plug wires. Then I had a couple of episodes where it started to lose power and idle really rough (stalling). Both times it stopped after a few minutes. Had code read- they said it was coils. Replaced ignition coils. Check engine light still on, but it went a few weeks without power loss.
Tonight the loss of power returned and didn't leave, and I had a glowing red catalytic converter after I limped home 20 miles (hope I didn't do any serious damage, I was stranded.)
Found this post : [URL] .... But there's no resolution.
So, I'm probably dealing with a misfire, and I'm sure I torched my cat after tonight. So any other easy diagnose/fixes for a misfire? I'm a shade tree mechanic- so I know just enough to get myself in trouble. If I can't get a resolution soon it will be off to the mechanic (which, maybe I should have done 1st...)
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6. It has developed a rough idle and has lost i fair amount of power. I cleaned the maf sensor and iac valve. Along with replacing an o2 sensor that was reading bad, with no improvement. The guys at O'reilly took a look and think I may be dealing with a timing issue or a warped valve. My question here is to found the culprit? I'm very inexperienced at working on vehicles and am damn intimidated by the scale of a project like timing. I should add that while traveling on the highway in high gear at low rpms, it develops a rough stutter. I can either power through it or ease off to get it to stop, but it resumes shortly after. It almost acts like an egr valve stuck open when on the highway. But that doesn't account for the rough (a consistent put, put, put...) idle.
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I have a 1995 k1500 when I turn the key on no lights on the dash if I wait 5-10 second you hear a click sound in steering column and the dash lights come on and starts fine. ???
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Last week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
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I own a 95 chevy 1500 with a 5.7 engine. The other day I'm driving home and my truck completely stalls out and has no power what so ever. To be more specific I didn't have lights, radio, key buzz nothing. Well by the time I got the under the hood I had power again and it cranked right up. I put it in drive and 5 minutes down the road and it stalls again with no power what so ever. I've been having problems recently with it stalling at stop signs/red lights but never with a loss of electrical systems. What this could be?
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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