I just picked up a C2500 with the 350 and 250,000 miles on it. Looks like the brakes were redone in the past few years.
The problem is, whenever you stomp on the brakes, the rears lock up immediately. It will spin out easily in the rain and squeal like hell on dry pavement, so slow controlled stops are necessary.
I have a 1988 gmc c2500 with brake problems. the front brakes keep locking up both sides. Have replaced the calipers rotors pads and the brake lines. I can bleed them off and they release but has soon has you it the brakes they lock up again.
View 8 RepliesOn Thursday t2 weeks ago (11th) I had my 10 K service done. the next thursday (18th) I was pulling into a parking lot and a warning light came on and the screen in the dash said "Steering Column Lock Defective" I parked shut the car off tried to turn the wheel and it didn't lock. Went to the store did what I had to do came out and tried to start the car. car started but immediately died and same message was on screen. Had car towed to dealer.
They said the key somehow deprogrammed itself but they will keep the car for the weekend to make sure that was it and there was no electrical short that wiped the key memory. Got car back Monday (22nd). Was driving car home tonight (24th) car got same message on the highway. Drove the car home and shut it off. Immediately tried to restart it and it started. shut car off again and waited for all the lights to go off inside. Car starts then dies immediately. Tried spare key and same thing.
I work 6 days a week and need this car to run. I can't keep going back and forth to the dealer. Oh and another weird thing, I had my locks set to sound the horn when they lock. After I got that warning light it doesn't anymore.
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI have just recently bought a 2006 prius (T Spirit model in the UK) with 46k miles on the clock.
Anyway i took it into a local garage today for its full service, as part of the process they disassembled the brakes to inspect them. unfortunately when they put it all back together, all the brake related lights have come on (VSC, ABS, anti skid, handbrake) and despite the mechanics efforts to reset them, could not turn them off. When the car is turned off the brake pedal now feels loose and makes a funny twang noise as if it has come off its spring. there are also dull noises coming from the brakes when i am driving the car and turn the steering wheel full lock to the right or left.
What has really annoyed and scared me is that when i now drive the car and brake, on releasing the brake pedal i get the feeling the brakes do not disengage immediately, instead there is some lag with the brakes disengaging a second after i have removed my foot from the brake pedal and makes the car jerk a little before coming to a stop. the car also feels sluggish to drive and on the drive back home only managed to achieve 45 mpg (heart breaking!). the mechanic has promised to take a look at the car next tuesday (we have a long public holiday this weekend so most stores will be closed) leaving me to suffer 4 days of anxiety and non use of my car.
Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesMy rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
I got my truck to throw some codes. As many of you know I have been having an issue where when I stomp my truck to the floor it sputters and hesitates. Some days its worse then others. It only happens under a load, and it generally doesn't last to long, however today it did it a whole bunch and lasted for a good bit any time I got on it hard. My engine light begin to flash, and there was a smell of exhaust. I went to Autozone quickly as possible. The guy read the code, and this time no lean codes, just a "P0430" which the code reader said was O2 Sensor Bank 2. It also had a pending code, which was "multiple cylinder misfire detected". So my question is can an O2 sensor cause this? Could my CAT on that side be bad?
If that is all it is, is a bad cat or O2 sensor then I will be very happy... Like I said I can sit in my driveway in park all day long, and rev outta my truck. It will never misfire or hesitate at all. Soon is I put it in gear and am going down the road and punch it sometimes it pop and sputter.
Another cool thing is some how their code reader was able to read my ABS light, and I found out that this whole time I have had a bad ABS Speed Sensor in the rear end. That is a plus as well.
The GX did not ride as smooth and hit hard on dips and bumps like a speed bump.
Air bags fill properly. Shock are damp around pistons, but definitely not blown out. My vehicle has 188,000 miles on it.
Dealer looked at and drove with me two times: Report: All working proper. The recommendation to put the air level control to high and then back to normal did improve the condition but not like when new.
Vehicle rode better with a load in the back, and or people in back seats. So I read where someone had a theory that the height sensors might degrade over time, and the normal position might have drifted out of range.
I adjusted the height sensors to ride a little higher (as I could see on the rear axle the rubber bump stops had been making contact a lot- it was all clean and shiny).
Raised the rear about 1/2" on each side. Did a lot of measurements from ground to bottom of wheel opening (not the best reference point, but at least I had one).
Result: Raising the ride height, thus increasing the travel to the bump stops totally brought back the good ride it had when newer. I also believe the increased height means the air bags have more pressure, thus more spring rate. So it takes more force to compress and travel to the bump stops.
i got my coilovers on and both the front and back are all the way down as far as they can go but they fronts are still about 1/4" higher. will the fronts take longer to settle in? ins been a few days.
View 11 RepliesBought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
View 11 RepliesAs I am rolling to a stop and get just under 5 MPH it feels like I am at the bottom of the brake pedal travel and that there isn't enough travel to stop the car. Almost like the brakes have gone out. It rolls a few feet after feeling like that and then the brakes just lock up. No bumps, not going fast, 30,000 miles on it. It is a 2010.
View 19 RepliesI drive a 2004 Sunfire and recently the brakes have started to just randomly "lock on" while driving. Upon visual inspection I noticed that the gasket for the brake fluid reservoir has holes in it - could the loss of vacuum in the brake system cause this? I have ordered a replacement gasket from Amazon. Seems that if I pull over, remove the reservoir lid and reseat the gasket, then let the car sit off for awhile it corrects itself. Before this started occurring I had the brakes visually inspected and the car test driven (unrelated) by a mechanic, and he said everything seemed fine.
View 2 RepliesMy anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
View 2 RepliesSo my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
I have a 2000 silverado. When I come to a stop, sometimes the anti-lock brakes will kick in. it makes that all too familiar grinding/clicking sound that I hear all winter. However, it is happening during the summer/fall. It doesn't happen every time I brake. It seems to happen most when I am coming to a stop on an uphill or downhill grade, or when I am stopping while turning. It doesn't happen the whole time while braking, just right at the end before the vehicle stops. It also seems to happen more frequently when it is warmer out. The tires don't skid while it is stopping either, which I guess is supposed to happen. It is a concern since it does take me a bit longer to stop when the anti-lock is going, and I never can predict when it will happen.
View 3 RepliesUsing a line lock as a parking brake? Going to switch to 4 wheel disc wont have parking brake.
View 10 RepliesI had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
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