C/K :: 98 K1500 - When 5.7 Engine Starts It Lags / Misses And Backfires
Sep 10, 2012
I have a 98 1500 4x4 with 5.7 the engine started acting like it was out of time.I replaced the gears and chain with no luck, replaced crank sensor still the same.when trying to start it , it starts to roll and then seams like the starter disengages the flywheel. When it does start it lags , misses and backfires. It is definitely flooding.I put it on my scan tool and a P1345 code is produced.(came sensor to crank sensor correlation ) What should I try next? I ordered a new distributor assembly but didn't install it yet.
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The truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
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So i have a 2006 3.6 Passat, and when starting from a standstill, the car lags before it actually starts to move. i have to wait over a second for the engine to actually rev once i put the pedal down. the car is also very sloppy when automatically downshifts. I am thinking it must be a problem with the ecu, but i got the car checked out to address this problem but the mechanics couldn't find a problem.
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I bought a 93 k1500 that was blown up. Replace engine to find out heads are bad and knocks. Got another engine out of a 96 pickup vortec 350 with 50k on it. Before I put it in I found spun bearing on number one. Its not terribly loose or scorn but it is bad and i'm going to fix it.
If I buy the intake to adapt my tbi on top and a new 383 stroker crank and lower end bearing will this cause issues because everything else is stock in that engine?
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I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
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I have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
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'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
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Prius c miss and tick after a cold start. About a week ago I started my c the electric motor engaged and when the ice started up for warmup the engine jogged back and forth repeatedly and ticked quiet loud. There was also a noise sounding like a fan hitting something. I turned off the engine started it back up and nothing was wrong.Took it to the dealer and of course they couldn't find anything.
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1999 Montana with V6, engine misses sporadically and sometimes dies after stopping.
The missing first became noticeable as it was shifting into 2nd. We took it to our usual mechanic and the computer indicated the camshaft sensor was questionable so replaced it. Cleared things up for a few days and then it started happening again.
Things progressively got worse so we took it to the dealer. They were able to experience the vehicle behaving this way but they said the computer registered no error codes at all.
We've had the injectors cleaned, replaced the spark plugs and wires, and fuel filter. It starts right up in the morning and runs fine but at temperature begins misbehaving again. Warm days are even worse.
It has continued to get worse, increasing in frequency of miss, duration of miss (sometimes it feels like two or three misses in succession), and even to now it dies when we come to a stop. It starts right up but will often die when we put it in gear again.
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[URL] .... Mazda 2.3 Liter 4 cyl. accelerates fine in all gears, but once you reach a steady speed in any gear, it jerks and bumps. Does not run smooth unless you are accelerating?
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I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
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My daughters 2002 HYD Elantra engines misses sporadically often every time after a fill up. What it might be. Once some of the gas is used then it stops.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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I have a 2006 F350. It started running rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I did an injector buzz test and found no codes. Cylinder contribution check showed cylinder one was not functioning. I replaced number one injector, cleaned injector cup installed new injector and copper washer. Engine runs the same. If it was a wiring harness issue should that have shown up in the buzz test?
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
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My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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Wife has a 2011 Elantra 1.8L... 5 years old and only has 24,000 kms on it.
Barely uses it, mostly for short trips, keeps it parked outside in the elements.
I've noticed the fuel mileage kinda sucks and has a rough cold start and performance lags while driving.
is it worth replacing the spark plugs? Always seems to fix these kind issues with my past cars.
Even with the low kms I assume they might need replacing since its 5 years old?
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My 2004 Dodge Dakota V6 4X4 hesitates/jumps/lags (don't know what to call it, but it feels like something momentarily holds back the truck from behind) when I am starting up a hill. I start to loose speed/RPMs and give it a little gas, the RPMs don't change, then it happens. As soon as the transmission does down shift though, and the RPMs go up, it stops. This issue happens the most between about 40 to 50 mph and 1000 and 2000 RPMs. If I turn overdrive off then this problem does not occur even when the RPMs dip down below 2000, which in all fairness is not often. The truck has appx. 128,000 miles on it. What this could be?
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99 k1500 (older body style). I saw older threads but didn't want to revive 11 year old threads. Door opens from the outside but not from the inside. Do I need to remove the whole interior door panel? What am I looking for? My auto parts store sells this, but it seems to require rivets (I don't have a riveter) so if I DO need this part, is there another way to install it?
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