C/K :: 97 Tahoe - Truck Rev Up During Acceleration
Dec 7, 2003
I have recently spent many hours into my 97 two door Tahoe. The truck is in Mint shape, and I'm having an acceleration problem. See, it drives fine under normal driving conditions. Say I want to pass somebody on the highway, and I need to accelerate. Well, the truck will rev up, but does not increase in speed. I thought it may be a transmission problem, so I brought it to a transmission place. They said it wasn't the transmission and it may be an exhaust problem.
I brought it to an exhaust place, and they said it wasn't the catalytic converter either. Possibly it may be the fuel filter. Could it be a faulty fuel pump ? Even though it's only a few months old.
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My 95 Tahoe smokes bad on startup (coolant) and a little (oil) on accelerating from zero. There is also a large internal coolant leak. I just replaced the intake manifold gasket as it was the easier fix; didn't do anything. Does this mean it is definitely a head gasket? Anything I can do in the meantime until I have time to pull the heads?
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My brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
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I have a 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3L V-8, 351,000 (yes that is correct) miles. Runs great except it has recently developed a stutter, hesitation, skip, I don't really know how to describe it, under acceleration or at steady speed. This is an intermittent problem and it is driving me batty. The only codes are a P0420, maybe after 350k miles it needs replaced? Would that possibly cause this issue, or am I looking at something more sinister?
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If I understand correctly my 2004 Expedition has the 4R75E transmission. We are experiencing a clunk upon acceleration when the truck downshifts from 4th to 2nd. I had the fluid & filter changed, flushed the transmission with cleaner. It still does it but not all the time. I turned OD off and I didn't notice the problem when shifting from 3 to 2.
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my 97 f150 4.2L keeps stalling on acceleration. It ran fine this morning then my wife put 20 dollars of fuel in it and drove 30 miles to her destination with no problem. on her way back the truck started bucking bogging down and acting like there was a fuel problem but it didn't kill. I checked for codes there were none. I removed the fuel filter on the rail and replaced it with a new one. Now it will idle fine with no miss but if I give it gas it kills.
I checked the codes again there are none. I also checked to make sure there was fuel coming from the tank when I turned the key as well as making sure I heard the fuel pump kick on when I first turned the key.I am leaning towards water in the fuel,i didn't see any trash come out of the old filter, however I am not sure. I have a 175 mile commute to and from work.
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I need to change my plugs in my 06 5.4 122,000 miles truck is bucking and not right under acceleration but its my only transportation to work and I am afraid of breaking a plug and then having no clue what to do after that. Need input on making the plugs come out easier ...
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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Purchased a 2000 F150 (over 200,000 miles) from a company fleet. The truck is not driven on a daily basis, only when needed to haul something to land field. One morning I had to drive the truck. When I pulled out of the driveway and began acceleration the truck began to shake violently. After some experimentation I came to the following conclusion. The vehicle starts to shake when a speed of 45 mph reached.
If I try to hold the speed between 45-55 mph the shaking continues. If I let off of the accelerator, the shaking stops, if I accelerate thru 45, the shaking stops. The shaking is not from wheels, rotors, axle etc. The check engine lite also came on during this time. When the shaking starts, if I attempt to accelerate, the truck looses power briefly then picks up. I didn't pay alot for the truck and really don't know how much I am willing to put into it. If it doesn't cost alot would like to keep the truck running.
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Just rejoined this Ford gang after years absence. Used to own "The Muny Pit", a '79 F-150 4WD monster with a '69 429... constantly breaking something. Anyway, where to look on my '08 F-150 XLT 4WD with a 5.4, 83,000 miles. Searched the search bar for my title and found a post on an '00 Expedition describing similar issue than mine... for about 6 months now when I accelerate either from stop or a crawl; forward or reverse; more so when turning, but does do it wheels straight.
Upon initial acceleration I have this horrendous rumble / shudder in the truck, like the grinding metal bearing sound/feeling felt when the pinion bearing went out on my '79 (only felt it seconds before the 9" rear pumpkin exploded). Once rolling it stops. I have checked all wheel bearings.. I have check all the suspension joints... everything looks fine, no obvious issues. The only suspension mod I've done is a 1.5" leveling kit when brand new. On the Expedition two replys suggested changing the transmission/transfer case fluids claiming it cured their vehicles.
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I drive a 2000 F250 XL Super Cab LB 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke. i drive like a grandpa. No rompin on the accelerator or anything. I was leaving the house got up to about 35mph and the truck lost acceleration. Motor still running fine. I coasted onto a side road. Put it in park, killed it, started it again and same thing. Will not go into drive at all. However will go into reverse just fine and accelerate in reverse. Desperately wanting my favorite means of transportation back!
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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I just bought a 2006 F150 with the 5.4 triton motor. Under acceleration at around 40-45, the vehicle starts to skip and shudder.
Based on what I read online and the fact that I pulled a code for a #1 cyl misfire, I assumed that i just need to change the plugs, and I am trying to scheduule that now.
I just read another post about the TC not locking up due to needing the filter and fluid changed and a way to fix that would be to take OD off and see if it still does it.
When I drive with the od off, it does not do it but i am now confused since i got the one code for a misfire.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
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I have an 06 F150 2wd with the 5.4. Today on my way home I had to cross traffic while getting on the highway and had to get on it a bit. When I gave it the gas the truck down shifted then just fell on it's face until I let off the gas a little then it sped up like normal. It normally runs great but I don't get on it much. I just don't see why It runs great until I try to get a move on.
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My 2002 f350 7.3 was given to me in July of this past year. I was 15 at the time and I was told that it was hydrolocked. Funny enough this is where I came to learn how to fix it, and this is the first time I have had to ask a question . I pulled both heads and replaced all 8 injector cups, I also had the heads re surfaced and had 7 injectors rebuilt and 1 replaced. I got it on the road in February around the 20th and since then I have put about 300 miles on it. Today I stopped at a red light and made a left turn and as I went to accelerate the truck jolted forward a few times and it felt like a tire was going to fall off while accelerating(only to 30mph). I pulled into a driveway to check all the tires, then I turned around and my foot was hard to the floor and the truck wouldn't go over 15. Diddn't smoke when it first happened, but after getting it off of a flatbed I turned it around and it hardly had enough power to get up my driveway. And I noticed it was pushing a steady stream of white smoke, the oil is clean and the oil cap doesn't get blown off at idle when I set it upside down on the valve cover.
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe that the transmission keeps going out in. I've replaced the torque converter, cooler lines, computer. I've even added an additional cooler on the truck and it keeps burning three the transmissions.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe. My ABS/Brake lights have been on for awhile now...they go off intermittently, but I think my ABS module is bad. This is a very expensive part.
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I have a 97 Tahoe that I love! The problem is that, every once in awhile, it simply won't start. Won't start, won't crank, won't do anything. I turn the key and nothing happens, similar to having the truck in gear and trying to start it. The REALLY frustrating thing is, when I take it to the mechanic, they can never recreate the problem. This last time, the mechanic had it for a couple of weeks, couldn't ever get it to not start. I had it for a week, and it stranded me an hour and a half from home.
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My wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
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