I have a 97 K1500 and the key will not fully seat in the driver's door lock. The key will go in but needs to go another centimeter to fully insert and work. My backup key does the same thing. The key still opens the passenger door and then I use the power lock to open the driver's side.
The lock doesn't appear to have anything stuck in it and I also flushed it with some WD-40 with no effect.
99 k1500 (older body style). I saw older threads but didn't want to revive 11 year old threads. Door opens from the outside but not from the inside. Do I need to remove the whole interior door panel? What am I looking for? My auto parts store sells this, but it seems to require rivets (I don't have a riveter) so if I DO need this part, is there another way to install it?
View 3 RepliesNoticed seat vibrations when fully stopped? My 2013 has a sweet spot where the needle hits *just barely* under 750rpm when stopped at a light or something, where it doesn't vibrate at all. Anything even a smidgen over or under that and the seats and sometimes even the steering wheel vibrate. It's pretty random. One set of lights and I'm vibrating, the next set of lights not far down the road and no vibrations.
Also when I'm idling or stopped and I want to roll a window up or down, the whole car will shake, RPMs will dip a bit too.
We just got a new 2014.5 LE, but I noticed that front passenger seat in it doesn't recline flat when reclined backwards. We also have 2012 Camry hybrid, and the difference in seat reclining between them is 3/4". 2012 passenger seat reaches back seat when fully reclined, and 2014.5 does not, it has quite a large gap. Is my 2014.5 seat defective and needs to be fixed, or are all of them are made like this now? We had two 2006 Camrys before, and in both of them front passenger seats reclined fully, touching the back seat...
View 8 RepliesI own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
My 2 door Golf has an issue.
Door closes, latches, door switch is activated (no chime, no interior lights on, all seems normal.)
From the outside it is not sitting flush to the body. From the inside I can hear a lot of road noise.
I inspected the hinges, weather stripping, door jamb, no obvious problems. I have slammed the door and pressed very firmly. At best I can get it closed, but I can pull it back 'open' very easily.
Sounds like I have a faulty door latch but need to confirm this before I start tearing into it??
So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
View 14 RepliesI recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
View 8 RepliesI just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
View 1 RepliesJust replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
View 2 RepliesI think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
View 4 RepliesI do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
I folded my back seat down, now it will not lock into the up position! I inspected the locking mechanism and it doesn't appear to have anything wedge in there.
View 4 RepliesI just purchased a used 01 Jetta GLS. It came with only 1 key and no fob. My key fits the door and ignition but does not seem to fit the trunk or the back seat lock that gives better access to the trunk. The fuel door switch works but the trunk release switch does not (no sound, haven't checked wires yet).
View 11 RepliesDriving down the street use brakes to stop slam into steering wheel. Hmmm pretty sure that's a problem..seat won't lock in position now. I have looked at it and cant figure it out. Something is broke or not working I'm just not sure what. I would weld it in position but others much shorter than I drive it too.
View 5 Replies