C/K :: 94 K2500 With 5.7L - Keep Getting IAC Code
May 6, 2016
So I kept getting a IAC code on my 94 k2500 with a 5.7L. So I ended up doing a reset for the sensor. I connected a jumper from terminal a to b on the diagnostic connector. I then turned the key to the on position but didn't start it. Waited 30 sec then unplugged the IAC. I then started the engine and attempted to adjust my idle. According to the procedure I read about your supposed to set the idle down to 600 rpms and then shut the engine off re plug in the sensor etc. But the problem that arises is when I try to do this literally the lowest I can get the rpms is 1600. I turn the idle screw until it damn near is out and I still can't get it any lower... So...something isn't right.
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I have a 94 k2500 (true 3/4 ton not light duty) with a 350 and auto trans in it. It has little to no low end power at all I'm not sure it would even peel out in dirt, literally. It's also getting terrible fuel mileage about 8mpg. The idle on the truck once warmed up is a bit low as well. In gear it idles about 700 rpms. Once warmed up I do get a code 35 (IAC code) while idling. Previous owner replaced the IAC 3 months ago though. It also doesn't want to downshift when you get on the gas. I mean it will but you have to press the pedal to the floor for it to do so.
My initial thought was the kickdown cable was not adjusted right, but I looked and realized it doesn't have one cuz it's a 94 and that's the year they switched to an electronically controlled transmission, so the downshift is controlled by the tps. So far I have checked the base timing it's spot on at 0 deg before tdc. I haven't really dug much more into it yet. I know it could be several things like: tps, egr, fuel filter, intake leak, temp sensor etc.....
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What the gear ratio is from factory?
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My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
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1984 K2500 4WD 8-lug
Front DS wheel hub. The front wheel bearing nuts come loose all the time. I have to check it every weekend, usually starts to get loose after a week and I have to pull apart the hub and re-tighten the nuts. Bearings are all okay, but tires wobble when they get loose...
Reverse order of install: nut -> keyed washer -> nut -> washer -> snap ring -> 4wd auto engaging assembly -> spring seat -> cap seal -> spring -> cap
My understanding is the deepest nut gets adjusted so that the bearing is tight enough that nothing wobbles but not so tight the wheel can't freely spin. Then the keyed spacer goes in and the second nut is tightened down hard to lock the first nut in position.
I've had on-and-off issues with the front DS in general as well. That side the brake caliper always start to suck in air after a few months, on #4 now. Brake system has been replaced with rebuilt MC & calipers, all new lines and warning switch. Also the 4WD doesn't seem to lock in on that hub every time. It will engage, but doesn't hold if it gets too much torque. Then other times it engages and locks and won't have any problems until next time I want to use it. It works about 70% of the time. I've taken it apart and checked everything, no burrs or wear that I've noticed to cause it.
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i have a 1991 silverado k2500 with the 454 big-block in it as i was driving home yesterday getting on the high way the truck just died completely without warning i looked down because i smelled something like burning wires and there was allot of smoke coming from under the dash where the steering column is when i go to start it all it dose is crank and crank never fires up it has no spark at all ?
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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I bought a 1995 k2500 sheyenne. There is a rather loud high pitch grinding/ squeaking noise emitting from what I would say the rear right of the truck. I have completely replaced the brake shoes and new pins and springs. No luck. What I can say is:
1. It hardly gets any louder as I speed up.
2. Still screams when in neutral, as long as the truck is rolling.
3. Rear differential has plenty of fresh fluid when I bought it.
4. If i hit a good size bump, it will run quiet for about 15 seconds.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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Truck has been running very well while in the warmer North Carolina climate pulling trailers with no limp mode or wrench light. However, when daughter started the truck this morning, SGII showed one DTC and when she pulled it up it was P0675. OK, glow plug num 5 maybe or the module. No issues starting or rough cold idle. I told her to clear the code and we'll see if comes back.
She did ask if it is something she should have it repaired before the trip back to Vermont. So I thought I'd ping the group here since reading posts, they seem to be fairly easy to replace (and assuming it isn't a chafed wire) and I could probably save her some $. Just want to make sure there isn't any chance of real engine damage.
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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have a 07 prius with 113k miles. It recently displayed the red triangle with code p0aa6 sub code 612.
I took apart the battery and nothing looked corroded, then on the inside of the bus bar i found a small amount of corrosion. After testing the cells i found 2 modules that were leaking voltage.
Since I had everything open I figured I might as well test to see if any cells were on there way out. The static voltages were pretty close around 7.8v, there were a couple modules that were .3v apart that I'm doing more testing on. I load tested each module with 1a, is 1 amp enough for a load test? I have a 100a load tester but figured that was way too much. They were all ok under load test, dropping about .6v and returning to original voltage within a few minutes.
Then I decided to check capacity on the bad cells, they were about 500mah, got to 1000mah after 1 discharge/charge cycle. I tested the capacity on a cell I thought was good and so far it discharged about 1050mah until it reached 6v, this was from 7.77v. I'm giving it some time to rest to see if it goes back up a bit and then I'll discharge some more till it stays at 6v. Even if I get a little bit more in it will be way under the 6500mah it should have or even the 3500mah that I've read is acceptable.
Since all of the modules have parameters that are pretty close I'm thinking the capacity will be pretty close as well.
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I get this code, p171, every so often on my corolla. I have cleaned the MAF and finally changed it with one bought at AutoZone. I still get the code. What should I do next?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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I have this code on my gmc serria 6.0L. I have changed the O2sensor2 but the code comes and goes. Less frequent than before I changed it. I am wondering if the cataletic converter can be altered and remove the code. I/e drill it out, take it out?
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Well this car is getting ridiculous. i just got it back from the dealership 3 weeks ago from having them fix the car when the check engine light came on because some pressure valve that is supposedly in each cylinder or something was bad.
Well now, its on again. I took it to autozone but when the guy put his scanner on there, nothing came up. So when I started the car as the scanner was plugged in, he said it gave him the code P2243. He did not know what the code was. The engine light is now off and the guy did not clear the code. The car still rides normal.
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My 2.0t threw a MIL with code P0441 about 24 hours after having the timing and all replaced. I replaced the N80 valve last week, but this did not make the light turn off.
I also have a hard time starting after filling up. What this might be?
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My CEL is on and the code is a p2181 (cooling system performance). My car isn't overheating or taking too long too warm up, so I'm guessing its not a bad thermostat or water pump. I want to replace the ECT sensor, but I haven't found any instructions for doing this on the 2.0TSI engine. Aren't there 2 ECT sensors? One on the lower radiator hose and one on the thermostat/water pump housing.
Lower radiator hose ECT sensor: [URL] .....
Thermostat/water pump housing ECT sensor: [URL] ....
Which one do I need to replace? The radiator hose ECT sensor seems easy enough to access, but I'm not sure what needs to be removed to replace the sensor on the thermostat housing?
I noticed that the temperature isn't always sitting at 190. It will drop slightly below on occasion for short periods of time. Could this actually be a thermostat issue?
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Check engine like on my 03 Camry with 2.4L is own & got an OBD code of P0031. Just bought the car with 38k miles one owner & can't pass local emissions.
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