I have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne with a 4.3L engine. My speedometer is running about 10MPH fast when at freeway speed. The truck has factory rims and the tire size has not changed. What to check? I'm thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
View 2 Replies1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
I changed the rear end on my buddies 2003 f150 and now the speedometer is 15 mph fast I was wondering if there is a way for me to calibrate the speedometer..
View 1 RepliesGot a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
I have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes.
View 5 Repliesi have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
View 4 RepliesI have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
View 6 RepliesSo about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
1996 Cheyenne 3/4 Ton 4x4 Long box
I put a cap on the box and the inspection guy told me I had to have a Center High Mount Stop Light on the back of the cap itself (because the back of the truck cab has one). I mounted the fixture and routed the wires down the box post under the truck box (I included a plug connector before it goes down the box post, so I can unplug the cap easy when I want to remove it).
Now I began to think... I can't just tap into the brake light wire at the rear bumper because the CHMSL will come on too when a signal light comes on. Do I have to run a CHMSL feed from the fuse box or somewhere up front, all the way down to the rear bumper? Where to locate this feed, or do I have to reference a schematic in the manual? Guess what? I don't have the manual.
While I was at it I installed a cargo light fixture inside the cap. I guess I could run that feed down from the front too while I am running the CHMSL wire.
i have a chevy venture and it was running just fine untill this morning it started to have a good amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and is running rough i took it to the autozone and had the codes checked since i let someone borrow my code reader but when i went there and had it done i got 5 codes out of it and they are....
p0300
p0301
p0463
p1106
p1189
What happened to it since it was running just fine all yesterday and before...
I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
View 1 RepliesThe locks on my 2005 Chevy cobalt sound like they are trying to lock and unlock when the car is running. The locks themselves don't move while this is happening. It has been to the dealer twice and no luck. The first time it went in, they said the left and right lock switches were shorted so they replaced them. The second time it went in they said that the ground wires were corroded and they fixed that problem. The car drove fine for a few days, now the same problem is occurring.
View 1 RepliesMy '03 passat w8 just started making a lot of noise which sounds like the engine fan is running very fast and blowing like mad even though my car is not warm. It started 3 nights ago and sounds like a street sweeper, which is what I thought it was until I looked around and saw there was no street sweeper to be found. When I turn the car off the noise winds down and disappears with the fan still running just making the normal amount of fan noise so I don't think the problem is the actual fan.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T manual transmission... I just purchased it...upon starting it up, it runs fine... After I have run it for a while, it gets a distinctive, constant, pretty fast ticking sound near the engine...
It's hard to pinpoint where it is coming from, but it seems to be coming from the right side of the engine or from an EGR valve?
It only makes the ticking sound AFTER it has fully warmed up and i have driven it awhile...and only at idle...if i rev up the engine, it goes away instantly...but starts again when it idles...
I have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
View 4 RepliesI own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
View 6 RepliesCode says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
View 18 Replies96 Eldorado Code 502 (speed sensor fault).. Speedometer not working and vehicle running in low range.. I replaced the speed sensor on the right side transaxle. No change, what else can I try?
View 1 RepliesI had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
View 9 RepliesMy roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesI'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
View 9 Replies