C/K :: 2000 Chevy K3500 Will Start Then Stop And Security Light Flashes
Jun 13, 2012
I've read tons of posts about the security system and passlock on the ignition...but my truck does not have a chip key, as the dealer even looked into the key issue with me. There is no chip or resistor on this thing at all.
So, with that said, I have the identical problem as the passlock system people do. The truck will start, then stop, and the security light flashes at me. That's the last thing I want flashing me at 6am when I'm trying to leave for work.
It only happens about once every 2-3 months, but I want to eliminate the problem as I have a feeling one day it's not going to start on me and then the real problems will start...
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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2005 GX470.After returning home my wife parked the GX470 in the garage. She returned 30 minutes later and noticed the headlights were on. She also noticed the immoblizer light was blinking.
We always keep the headlights in the "auto" position. Headlights staying on is a little strange. but I recall the lights staying on once or twice before. Immoblizer light flashing has never happened.
I inserted the key and turned to start the car and the light went out and the GX started fine. Once I remove the key, the light starts blinking again. I tried this with both keys to make sure it wasn't a transponder issue--all keys did the same as above.
I checked battery voltage--12.4v. Charging--13.6v at idle Some light corrosion around the negative cable but not too bad. cleaned anyway Wife did say she came out of work and noticed that two different car alarms were going off that were right next to her car. Possible kids messing around. Maybe our car was going off as well?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 liter v8. On my drive to work this morning the headlights and the cluster light shut off and the security light illuminated and has been on ever since . The truck will crank and run fine I have brake lights and turn signals and reverse lights. I have read that this problem can usually be traced back to the body control module. I located the TBC fuse under the hood and it was blown. so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse and it blew immediately after I inserted it. So I am thinking if I am able to rule out a ground or bare wire somewhere then the module itself may just have to be replaced.
The next question I have is due to the security light staying on in the cluster all of the time. Assuming that I can continue to drive the truck while waiting to have the BCM replaced I would only need to ensure that I did not drive after dark as I have no headlights. But I am concerned that the security light being on all of the time will drain my battery. Do the security light remaining on will in fact drain the battery? And if so, is there a way to disable the cluster and door security light so that I may continue to drive it and not have to come home and disconnect the negative cable every
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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I've been having a problem with my 2000 Alero recently where, periodically, attempting to start the car will end in the car stalling and the security light beginning to flash on the dashboard. Usually after about 10 minutes the light goes off and the car starts normally (well, insofar as feeling like it's going to shake itself apart the moment it hits idle is normal, but that's another topic for another post). This happens about 40% of the time when starting the car, and seems to be happening more and more frequently (which may be my imagination).
I took the car into the dealer (after my local mechanic told me he was familiar with the problem and wouldn't be able to fix it), and they told me I needed to replace the body control module and passlock sensor... Car info : 2000 Oldsmobile Alero~140,000 miles2.4L I-4.....
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2004 Passat GLS 1.8t 5 spd. This started last week. It is very inconsistent, but I seem to have it happen more when it's cold out. Sometimes I am coming to a stop, just leaving from one or could be doing 30-60 mph - truly no rhyme or reason. Anyway, the brake warning light flashes, the cluster beeps loudly 3 times and it says STOP on the instrument screen. It then changes to "brake fault" and then "service manual". After that cycle, everything goes away and it usually won't do it again. One time I had it do it 3 times back to back. Brakes work fine. I have good pad depth. Fluid looks like I should flush it, but level is fine. I scanned w VAG-COM and found no faults.
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I have a 2006 GMC Canyon i5 4x4 with 86000 mi. The problem started about 3 years after purchase. I would try to start the truck the starter engages but doesn't start, let off the key and the security light on the dash starts flashing. The manual instructs you to leave the key in the run position for ten minutes turn to off and retry to start. This usually works, on a couple occasions, I've had to do this twice. I've had the vehicle to the dealership with no results, it doesn't leave a code on the computer and hasn't happened while they had it. They tell me everything checks out fine but the problem still persists. I hate having a vehicle I can't depend on.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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My wife stopped at a local store(car running tip top as usual)turned off the car. As she came out of the store after about 20 mins. NO START! Security light is flashing all interior lights,radio etc work but NO headlights and if you turn signal it blinks real fast like a bulb out condition! The fuel pump does its prime up etc. NO CRANK,after say 15 seconds security light goes out,still NO CRANK!I did 10 minute reprogram(key in accy for 10-20 min) -no change!I also tried the valet key!NO GO!!!
I know GM had a few security problems but I have been out of the mechanic loop since losing the use of my legs!
2001 Buick Lesabre
6cyl automatic
155,000 miles
passkey 3 with transponder on outer ignition ring
battery is new and loads out fine
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I have a 93 firebird. it has a new engine ,starter and battery. fuse under hood is good. turn switch lights work as usual .
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My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
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I have a 99 Suburban k1500 that will start and stall out after a few seconds. The security light is on constantly and will not reset after trying all the procedures listed. I have even tried the resistor bypass trick using 3200 ohms as required in procedure. Light would go on and off intermittently for several months on regular pattern and would restart and run fine after setting for a few hours or overnight. Now it has been weeks after a tow home and nothing seems to reset it or work in bypassing it.
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I first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
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For the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
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Every once-in-a-while I've noticed a "security" light is illuminated on my dash-board. When this happens, I can't start my 92' Buick LeSabre for about 5-minutes or so. Aggravating, to say the least. Is there something I can do? Including "disabling" it?
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My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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