C/K :: 1999 Chevy 5.7 MT 2500 - Engine Cuts Out While Driving At 3000 RPM
Apr 23, 2012
MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
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I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
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Don't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
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Ranger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
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Driving a 2008 Ranger XLT 3.0. Starts runs and drives fine, how ever it seems to have a tinny ruff idle.
What I noticed is when in park or neutral when I idle it up @ 3000 RPMs it seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and sort of cuts in and out very quickly. Is this a protection thing on the ranger.
Running on the road it kicks down and runs thru all the gears normally from idle all the way up to 5000 RPMs. Just would like to make sure this is normal.
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Truck: Ranger
Year: 1990
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Miles: 83,445
Recently Replaced:Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Position Sensor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wireset
Ignition Control Module
Driver Side Coilpack
After I got done with all of this crap on my Ranger, I noticed that it was driving great! But...today I was on my way to school and BAM! My engine idle started hitting (presumably because I do not have a tachometer) about 3000RPM and lowering down to about 2500RPM and from there, every time I am not in gear it decided to fluctuate between 2500RPM and 3000RPM. Crazy style too.
Now, I got to school, and getting closer to it at a stop light the truck basically died. It was almost at 100'ish RPM. I gave it gas, and BAM. I hear a continuous hissing noise from under my hood. Haven't diagnosed it fully yet because I just got home and its 12AM.
Now, every time I stop at a light or in traffic or whatever it may be, I have to give it gas every other second, like a small push on the pedal, to make sure the truck doesn't die. Also, every time I am out of gear and my RPM's are at an 'idle' state, I get continuous hissing from somewhere, I get no power loss or anything, just really weird idle RPM's and hissing when my foot is not on the gas basically. It is strange. I think It is some sort of Vacuum leak but I am not sure.
To get a better picture of the 'hissing' noise, it is the same hissing as you would hear when letting the air out of a tire. That is the best way I could describe it.
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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So, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 in line 6 Cyl misfires when driving. I bought this about 2 months ago (200,000 miles), and when i first got it it was acting like it was misfiring when driving above 60 mph( did get codes P0301 cyl 1 misfire, and P1391 CPS) . it started to act the same way just driving in my small town. so i ended up changing the ignition coil pack and changing spark plugs, i also replaced the CPS (camshaft position sensor). and was still acting the same way. I located a TSB that said there might be a carbon build up problem preventing valves from rotating and seating.
So I used seafoam and clean up the Top, and drove it in low gear at 4500 rpm for 15 seconds or so 6 times.. initially when doing this it was cutting out (jerking) when rpms got up there. after doing this twice with about 3 weeks in between never had a problem in town with it acting up running like it should from what i can tell..
Then i took a road trip, and a 60 mph was fine, 70 mph it was fine.. so i thought it fixed the issue and all good.. but about an hour into the drive it started acting up again.. unexpectedly cutting out for a second here and there, and usually when going up hill, and when got to destination about another 40 minutes, coming to a stop light i noticed it when stopping it was running pretty rough like it wanted to die out but never actually did. never got any more check engine lights either. I'm kinda at a loss at what the issue might be, and what i need to do to fix it as i really like the vehicle
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Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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Tonight while driving I heard a rattling noise under the engine, come to a stop and the engine cuts off. I pop the hood, get a jump and nothing. So I check the oil and it is dry... I changed it 4 months ago myself, it is a mystery how it leaked. No light came on, no oil leaks anywhere..
Is there any hope in having the engine turn over again? If so how should I go about trying to turn it? Engine only has 61000 miles on it.
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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