C/K :: 1998 - Starts Then Stops Instantly
Jan 31, 2009
I work in a automotive garage and am having a problem with this truck. It starts then stops instantly, I scanned it and know it is the security feature shutting it down. I have done my homework and found I have to bypass the passkey system by measuring the resistance between the yellow and orange/black wire at the tumbler. I did this and got 33.2, I got a resistor and soldered it in and the vehicle does the same thing.
History on this vehicle 1998 c1500 is it sat with a dead battery for the last year and a half, i don't know if this is relevant. Also i was told all I should do is connect the yellow wire straight to the black wire.
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 with 145,000 miles. It runs great, lots of power and starts immediately, except for the other day. I drove to work and it was up to full operating temp, shut it off and came out 2 hours later and it cranked just fine and fired but died immediately. Repeated attemps got the same results. It would run for about 1 second and die. I tried starting it about 10 times in a row. I tried it again an hour later and its run perfect for the last 2 days, no hesitations.
The outside temp was about 65.
No check engine lite or any other lights came on.
No weird sounds.
New battery.
The fuel pump was changed out at a reputable Chevy dealership 3 years ago and about 40K. I haven't checked for any codes, or fuel pressure. It acts like a fuel pump failing, hiccups once in awhile and then leaves you stranded when you least expect it. But.....It started up instantly after sitting for an hour, meaning it had fuel waiting in the wings. I am thinking its likely electrical, a sensor? But shouldn't I be getting a light?
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Ok I finally got my truck to start, but it dies instantly. I had a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at it and he said gas wasn't filling up the front bowl, but gas was pumping? Could something have happened when the carb was rebuilt?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo that had been sitting for a few months. Recently I tried to start it and it will not start. It sounds like it is wanting to start and occasionally starts for a brief moment but then instantly dies. I have been doing some research to see what could be the problem and my guess is that pulley on the ac compressor is not turning.
My first question I guess is whether that sounds correct or could it be something that I am overlooking.
My second question is, if it is the compressor, how can I fix it. I do not want to replace the compressor, I have seen how much this can cost. I would prefer to just eliminate the ac all together. I saw a question on yahoo in a similar case where someone mentioned a bypass pulley, but I haven't been able to find any for my vehicle.
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I just recently bought my 2002 F250 Lariat with the 5.4 and 76 thousand miles. I love this truck but I've started to notice a few things with it. When i go to start the truck it sometimes starts but then instantly shuts off. When i try it again it takes a long time to crank over. This has happened in cold and warm weather. What the problem could be and things i could do to prevent it?
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I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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I stopped at a light yesterday and the day before and the ICE will turn off, then turn on for a second or two, then off, then on for a second or two, etc. it did this for probably 15 seconds until I let my foot off the brake and coasted forward a few feet then stopped again. What the heck is going on. It's done it twice now.
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The thumping starts at as low as 5mph and never stops. There is also vibration that I can feel through the foot well. Tire shop says the tires are cupping. All suspension components were original. So I figured at 150k they need replacement.
Last weekend I went ahead and changed all 4 struts out with KYBs. Of the 4, front passenger side was completely seized, others were sill working. It still has thumping sound and also the vibration although a bit less than before.
So should I change other components - UCAs, LCAs, ball joints? I am assuming tires need to be replaced, but I don't want to replace those only to find out those are shot in a few months because I didn't changed other worn out parts.
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When using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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2003 Merc. SABLE. AC works great for 1/2 hour on the highway. Then No cool air. We shut it off. An hour later and 70 miles down the road , it works again. Always cold air.. no matter where you set temp. 4 times to 3 mechanics. No one can solve it.
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My brakes are working fine, and the car starts up okay. However, when I press on the gas and go anywhere over 20 mph or so, my car will start, then stop, then start, then stop... Until I step off the gas. There's also a semi-frequent squealing noise whenever I press the gas. The Service Engine Soon Light is on. What it is?
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I really don't know whats going on. First my remote to lock my car stops working and it wont take the programming. After about a month now when I turn my car off the horn starts going off as if I pressed the panic button. Do I need to get a new electronic part or something.?
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My 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
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I was trying to close my sunroof just now and it starts to close but it stops just before the end and opens back up again!! What do i do about it?
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My 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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