C/K :: 1998 C1500 5.7 - CES Light Came On And Truck Started To Shutter When Slow Down
Nov 3, 2012
I was driving down the interstate and sped up to pass a car once I started to slow down the CES light came on and the truck started to shutter really bad. I got it to a scanner and it said misfire Cylinder 6 and he suggested that i change the cap rotor plugs and wires since it has been a long time since it had been done. I did so and and the problem has continues. It idles real rough acts like it is going to die, then under power it smooths out a little but you can still tell it it where. Above 3000 the CES blinks until you slow down and the the scanner still says misfire cylinder 6.
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I've been experiencing this problem ever since I bought my '90 C1500 305 but its recently gotten worse. After long trips (over 100 mi) the truck refuses (will not even crank) to start for at least 5 minutes following shutdown. Now, it will intermittently not start for 15 minutes following shutdown after shorter (~10 mi) trips unless it gets a jump, which is strange considering the battery is not run down.
I first thought it was a bad contact in the ignition cylinder, but I noticed that the batt voltage would always droop when turning the key to start, so I guess that the ignition is being applied. Now I'm wondering if the starter motor might be bad?
It's a weird problem to have, I am 100% certain the truck will start if its cold. But after a long trip it just flat out refuses, will not even crank.
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1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
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It is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
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I have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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I have an '04 chevy tahoe, only 70k. Very recently the front end of the car has started to shutter while driving. This happens when I am going generally above 45mph- more so going up a hill. It feels a little bit like I am driving over unevenness/ripples in the road- even when it's smooth flat pavement. When I take my foot off the accelerator and just coast the vibration stops. I got new tires put on front so it is not a wheel balance issue. The car does not pull left or right either like out of alignment. And the engine rmp's do not fluctuate/strain when the shuttering starts.
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Read a few references but nothing seems the same as what I have... 2001 Ford F150 Larite 5.4L 4 x 4
When slowing down, at speeds of 3 to 4 miles per hours truck starts to shutter. It is not an engine issue, nor a brake as it will occur with brakes on or not applied. Engine is running smooth, seems more mechanical that fuel or brake related. Shutter is not slight either.
Both CV axles, hubs, rotors and upper and lower A Frames have been replaced. Shutter was happening prior to the replacement, they were replaced as preventive maintenance. Shutter is profound enough to shake the mirrors. What it can be.
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
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My sons 98 F150 4x4. First off he had a head light go out and replaced the bulb. Then a day or so later his tail lights would not go out after he turned the truck off. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called ) anyways, that didn't work. So now he takes out the fuse every time he turns off the truck, just so the lights will go out. But, when he puts the brake fuse back in, the brakes work fine, but his windows will not roll down. I am totally confused with what is going on.
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2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
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I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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So earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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