C/K :: 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 Auto 454 - Fuel Gauge Reading Full All The Time?
Nov 13, 2012
As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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The gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
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Having problems with the fuel indicator not reading full after a fill up. I have slowly filled my 2012 Passat TDI SEL till I can see diesel in the filler neck and the gauge still only shows 7/8 full?
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So I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
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Trouble with the fuel gauge showing full all the time - only goes down 1/8th at most. Repair shop said would have to pull dash to find the trouble.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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I have a 97' F-150 4.6 L and I've been having some fuel gauge issues.... I filled up my tank up and I drove it 130 miles and it still said full tank... even when I had 1/2 I would start it and every time I started it it would jump up all the way to full and slowly drop down. Then randomly last night it started working... I noticed as I hit rough patches in the road and bumps it would usually fluctuate, but it would also fluctuate up... It read I have 3/4 tank last night and I go to start it today and its back up to full! I don't understand... Wouldn't a bad sending unit just stop all together?
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
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I have a 98 trans sport and the temp gauge is reading low. Only on the first line when driving then when i pulled into the garage it went up one line and heat got warmer. Felt both upper and lower hoses and i can press them both in Fluids are full no leaks anywhere. oil is good tranny fluid is good. I just got it on a trade it runs and drives great no problems at all.
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Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
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My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
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I have a 1999 GMC Yukon SLE. I've recently noticed that I appear to be running out of gas at the 1/2 tank mark. When I go to fill it, it seems I really do still have 1/2 a tank of gas (so it doesn't seem to be just a bad gauge). As long as I keep the tank above 1/2, everything is well. What might be causing this?
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Driving on my original tank from dealer today from Upstate NY to NYC. On the way my C had 4 bars to begin then went to 3, then 2 after about 90 miles of traveling at avg of about 55mph. I watched the cruising distance go down to 1 but I still had 2 bars on my fuel gauge (and my crusing distance was conservative compared to my mpg reading the whole trip, which was hovering around 58mpg).
The gauge went from 2 bars to one flashing bar in about 1 minute. I pulled into a gas station about 2 miles ahead and put in about 5 gallons... this put the fuel gauge up to 3/4s or about 3 bars above the halfway mark. What gives? I know there are fuel gauge issues but I thought with two bars I would have had plenty of time before I needed to fill up on these roads with these mpgs.
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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i own a 67 old cutlass supreme and the fuel gauge, as you turn off the car goes down to 3/4 of a tank, when you start it up it goes to full. But the car is really empty! That is the only reading I get, no matter how much gas I have. I replaced the sending unit and I cleaned the ground wire, it still does the same.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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I've had an ongoing issue with my fuel gauge reading incorrectly, and now I'm trying to fix it! Basically, it will change all over the place while I'm driving (not erratically, but definitely moves occasionally). I recently fixed my overhead display, but the "miles to empty" display doesn't seem to be very consistent. It will read 450 miles to empty, and then the next time I look at it, it will have dropped 100 miles or something (after minimal driving).
So I'm wondering where I need to begin looking to fix this problem. I've replaced the dash cluster using Circuit Board Medics, so I'm fairly confident that's not the issue. I've read that it can be the fuel pump or the fuel tank sender, but how to check if these are actually the problem or how much time it will take. Luckily, I've never run out of fuel and been stranded, but I need to fix this or it's only a matter of time!
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I just filled up my gas tank and when I turned on my car the gas light turned on and the needle read empty. But before I put gas, the gas light wasn't on yet and. Was at 1/4 of a tank. Maybe I filled it up too much and it'll resolve itself after the gas goes down?
It's a 10.5 if it matters.
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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