C/K :: 1995 - All New Plugs And Wires But No Spark
Dec 11, 2012
Had issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?
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Today I ran into a problem while i was changing my spark plugs ...two of the plugs were completely covered in oil. I mean oil was literally dripping off those plugs. I have a Passat 1999 2.8L V6. What could be wrong.
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I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
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Recently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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While I was installing my side mirror turn signals I noticed there were two plugs tucked away in plastic not connected to anything. One is towards the outside of the door. As if it was to be connected to the door handle sensor that comes with the push button start package. The other one was towards the inside of the door, as if it is used with the lane assist or even side mirror turn signals. I never really messed with them as I was following the DYI. I should've checked to see if they were wired to the turn signals so I wouldn't have had to run the wires all the way to the fuse block. Below are the pictures of what I'm talking about.
Front/Inside of door
Rear/Outside of door
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I just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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I have a '99 Rodeo 2.2L, 2wd with 60k. Time for new plugs and wires. Any engine diagram? I haven't found the Distributor Cap.. AND... my Haynes Repair Manual mentions coil packs... when I went to AutoZone for Spark Plug wires, they didn't say anything about coil packs.
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I've never replaced those and I have about 250K miles on a 18 year old car. I do replace spark plugs every so often. I've heard that if the o2 sensor goes it can screw up the catalytic converter very quickly.
If the cat WERE screwed up, would the car still run or would it also need to be replaced? If so, I would think that an o2 sensor would be kind of a maintenance item, ie spend regularly to avoid a huge expense if the converter goes. or maybe catalytic converters aren't that expensive on this car?
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I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
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I removed all the spark plug wires for testing/cleaning and install new spark plugs, but stupidly forgot to mark the wires where they came off at the Coil Pack. yes, Now I cannot find a diagram for the Driver's Side wire positions at the Coil Pack.
(The Passenger side wires are 1-2-3, starting from the front of the engine, simple enough); The Coil pack itself has numbers stamped on it, so I have the Passenger side done correctly.
But the Driver's Side wires are not in a Sequence of 4-5-6, instead they are 4-6-5 (or something like that), and I can't remember their positions at the Coil Pack. Looking for a drawing showing the Driver's side Wires as they connect to the Coil pack?
Example:
Front Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (Front, Center, or Rear?)
Center Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
Rear Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
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I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
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I was thinking about change my spark plugs on friday so today I went to check the ones the car have open the hood took the engine cover out and the ones on the sides, I see 6 wires 4 going to the left side(air intake side) and 2 going to the right side (where the oil fil cap is) so I say think this should be the spark plugs wires. I take one of the left side wires out and is cover in oil so I keep taking the other out one by one and all of them have a lot of oil I can't even see the sparks plugs. All the wires have numbers on top 1 to 6. I say this have to be the wires cause I don't see any other place where the plugs can be located at. The car is a 99 v6 fwd...
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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I don't have a torque wrench. I just have a spark plug wrench. I changed my own spark plugs. I don't like taking them out and putting them back in. I'm not sure if I got the torque right. What should I do?
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Bought my car three weeks ago. I was looking around under the hood and noticed that the color of the connector on the spark plugs is different. Two are grey and two are black, in alternating order. What's up with that?
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I have a 2000 Jetta 2.8 VR6 (the 6-cyl) with 128k miles and I have oil on my spark plugs, only on one bank of the motor (the bank closest to the bumper, if that makes any difference). I am aware that it is most likely a leaking or worn out valve cover gasket, and I have a replacement and am prepared to replace it. What I need to know, and I can't find this exact part anywhere, is do I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals??? The gasket I ordered did not come with any tube seals, I can't find this part on any auto parts website at all, nor have I been able to locate anything useful on this, or any other, website. I know the 1.8 has plug tube seals, and they come with the gasket, but does the 2.8 also require tube seals? I imagine it would, but I just don't know.
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