95 350 Tbi does well idling in park and on the highway but at idle speeds it shudders. And if i slow down to make a stop it shudders til i get my speed back up or floor it. It have new plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, TPS, IAC, new throttle body gasket, new vacuum lines. What else could it be?
View 1 RepliesGot a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
I drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
My Expedition started to shudder on a drive when I got it up to 55 MPH. I drove for about 15 minutes and parked well I drove it again and it started to do the same thing. Now the Service Engine Light came on. What the cause could be. (2000 Ford Expedition EB Ed. 5.4l Triton).
View 12 RepliesI have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
View 9 RepliesWhen I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
I have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
I recently purchased a 2000 Durango with 151K on the clock. It looks like it was well taken care of, clean inside and out, and runs/drives nice. I just have 2 "concerns". There are times when the vehicles shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 it "shudders", only does it for a split second, and seems mainly when pulling out on some sort of upgrade, but not always. Otherwise it runs and shifts fine.
The second "concern" is that it seems to surge a little at idle. At a warm idle in park is when I noticed it. It goes from about 750 rpm to 950 rpm over and over. I haven't really noticed if it does it during regular driving.
My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
I have a 2004 Malibu Classic well maintained 2.2 L engine 20k miles. When the engine is warm in drive at idle, the engine shudders vibrates the dash and steering wheel. It idles smooth when cold. In drive it settles to a base idle about 575-600 RPM. When I raise the RPM with the peddle just a bit maybe 50 RPM it idles perfect. Otherwise the engine runs perfect, air cleaner and plugs are like new. Is there any way to adjust the idle up or identify what sensor controls the idle?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with just over 100,000 miles on it. Recently it has begun to shake at low speeds. The car shakes as if it were driving over a rough gravel road, and makes a sort of chugging noise when I step on the accelerator at speeds from 15-25 miles per hour. When I accelerate beyond 25, the shaking stops, and the car stops making the chugging noise as well. It drives beautifully on the interstate, but horribly when I am in town. After taking the car for a drive on the interstate for about 30 minutes one day, the shaking at low speeds actually ceased for over a week, but then came back. The "check engine" light has not come on. I maintain the car regularly, getting oil and filters changed, fluids filled, etc. I'm wondering if this sounds like it could be caused by a problem I can fix myself, or if I need to have the car looked at by a professional.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 celica gt at times the car was hard to start it would start idle really low then cut off this went on for about 1 month. The other day I was driving it and stopped at a light the car cut off and wouldn't restart. I originally thought it was a fuel pump so I took off the fuel line going to the fuel filter and attempted to start car fuel came out so I knew the fuel pump was working.
I then pull out 1 spark plug put it in the end of the spark plug wire and held it against the block while someelse cranked the car no spark was observed. I then marked the distributor and removed it. I looked at the rotor and it was really worn also the ignition coil had a crack on the side of it. I removed it and went to auto zone and found a replacement for $42.00 they sell two different type one for the 1.8 engine and for the 2.2 engine so know which engine type you have. I put every thing back and the car ran fine. However I would like to bring up the rpms a little they do seem low but I attempting to find out what how to do that.
I have a 95 explorer, has been a great truck until lately. it started as just a small rough idle every now and then, nothing to make a big deal about. just changed the oil and wiped things down a bit, started it up ran just fine for a couple of minutes and when it starts to just barely warm up and the idle drops down it starts louping or surging, if i hold the throttle open it bit it kinda goes away and it would continue to warm up and not have a problem idling. now it won't even do that. i'm pulling several codes, to many to list and the truck ran just fine a few days ago ...
View 3 RepliesI have a '95 Deville 4.9L and I recently started to get a low oil pressure warning at idle. It does leak a little oil but I try to keep up with it and I change the oil frequently. I replaced the oil pressure switch and the problem persists. I'm not positive, but I think I may have put 5W30 in last time I changed the oil, could that be too light? Should I try replacing it with 10W30?
I haven't tested the pressure yet but that oil pressure switch was a real pain to get out (and on) is there a trick to it? I've got a pressure gauge, that would be where I'd connect it, right? In hindsight I should have done that while I was replacing it. It runs great, no engine noise or smoke.
I have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
View 2 RepliesMy grandpa's old wood paneled station wagon is sick. The idle seems to be getting rougher and rougher with every time I kill the battery (I've somehow left my headlights on four times in the past two months and needed a jump). It's to a point now where if I don't throw it in neutral at stop lights and keep a tiny bit of gas on the engine it stalls out.
Notes:*When it first gets jumped after being dead, if I stop even for a second, it dies instantly.*While cruising - it is fine. *It idles smoother stopped in neutral than it does stopped and in drive. *It seems a bit rougher with the engine is cold, but still rough and can stall with the engine hot. *Some random times it idles just fine (like for example the first few seconds on start up, and then it sounds like the engine is decreasing in rpm automatically, and then it is rough again).
Could the dying battery and rough idle be related?? The battery guy says "if it starts fine, the battery is fine" (it does start fine, although keeping the radio on for 20 minutes without it running will kill it).
Also other problems with my car in case this has anything to do with it: *I have a leaky tail pipe*my ABS has recently been randomly engaging at low speeds (next problem to work on...)
I have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
The equipment:1995 Buick Regal Custom 3.8
I noticed a year ago that my car would randomly stall out coming into work after a 20-25 minute drive. It then started to idle really high, very rarely. So i cleaned the throtle body, new air filter, new fuel filter, sparks, and wires. This is about where my expertise ends.
Its seemed better, however, it would act up now and again (stall) but I was fine with it.
Recently I have noticed that the car idles really high 1.5 in drive (compared to 900) and 2k in park after I have drove for 20-25 mins. So I put the computer to the car and all I have is transmission error codes which I have had since I owned the car at 80,000 miles and I am now to 160,000 miles. This car has been pretty good to me because it starts, goes forward, and backwards! What else can you really ask for. A better idle maybe?