C/K :: 1994 - Rattle Loudly At Idles Comes And Goes
Feb 13, 2014
i got a 94 chevy k2500 6.5 vin f with nv4500 and a dual mass clutch. been fixing things left and right and have been putting this off but has been getting worse over the last 4k miles(only had for those miles)has 242k miles on it. i have a rattle coming from what sounds like the rear of oil pan to the bell housing. its quite loud only at idle comes and goes as it wants to. drives fine idles fine. i rotated crank to see if the crank was broke and i have no slop in it.
Guy said he had new clutch put in 5k miles ago i have to overhaul the trans per grinding 2nd and 3rd gears when downshifting. I do not tear trans out and need extra parts i didn't plan for cause i only have one hoist and the shop. i checked the crank pulley its older but not moving an excessive amount i have motor mount on my tool box i will be putting in in the next few days. have new injectors in it as well and is not an injector knock. Engine will shake when it rattles to.
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I had my 94 Ford Ranger recently repaired, new water pump and coolant. Seems to run okay, but after 10 minute drive, the coolant system loudly thumps and visibly pulses as if there is steam or huge bubbles in the hoses. They are timed irregularly, but about once every 2 seconds and they quickly go away after a minute after shutting off the engin. Water temp is showing normal on the idiot gauge.
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OK so I bought my Prius a little over a week ago and there was no rattle. I drove it 350 miles to get it home and it was completely silent. A couple of days ago I heard a slight rattle, and its not even a rattle is like rubbing 2 Styrofoam cups together, but now today it is extremely loud. So loud that I can still hear it over the radio blasted. I have pressed everywhere on the dash and cannot quiet the noise. It sounds like it is dead center under the vent. First thing I did was to come on here and research. I have read tons and tons of threads regarding removing dash and placing felt but I could not find instructions on how to remove the dash. Looking for step by step instructions?
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I recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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i have a 1994 mitsubishi diamante 3.0 sohc hard to start and idles real rough. it has new plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel filter,and air filter.fuel pressure is between 45 and 50psi which is good i have good compression on all cylinders timing belt is good and i am getting spark to all plugs. with the car running i pull the plug wires off and cylinders 1 3 5 makes a difference but 2 4 6 their is no change.the car was setting for two years.it dose have new gas.the check engine light is not on and has no codes.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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My son has a 1994 Toyota Pick Up, and it suddenly developed a rattle noise, but only when he is accelerating. I suggested he check for loose heat shields, or a broken engine mount, fan rubbing on radiator housing, but all of this is good. He had a new timing chain put in 30,000 miles ago, and a new clutch. It has 167,000 miles on it. The oil does not have flakes or coolant. It does not make the noise when not in gear and accelerating. Could it be u-joints? He said is sounds like it is coming from the Lft Front, not the undercarriage. Fuel injected. does not overheat, or lug, or lack power.
2wd. 5sd tranny.
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Ok, so about 3 months ago I noticed the fan was blowing kinda loudly, but stopped. Then 2 weeks ago, my AC just stopped the next morning it started blowing again, then 2 days later it stopped again and hasn't come back on. When I try to turn it on I can feel a light trickle of cool air but I don't hear the fan. .. what does this sound like?
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I have about 1300 mi on my V6. And for the last 600 or so miles the brakes squeak loudly when stopping at a red light.
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The DSG in my MY08 R32 is a lemon. It thumps/clunks quite loudly when shifting into 6th gear at low speed (50-60km). It seems to make the noise a lot when it's in D mode.
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"I just bought a 2006 explorer. I used 4wd drive this morning in the snow. When i took it, it clunked very loudly when i backed up and then when I turned at the end of the road (right). It did this the second day i had it also, same situation. After driving it down the road, the noise has stopped. I can only assume it is related to the 4wd as it doesn't do this at any other time Is this a normal thing?
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My brakes (still OE) have been loud as crap lately. Car (and thus the brakes) has 41,000 miles on it.
I don't believe they are done, because i see plenty of pad, and the wear sensor hasn't come on, plus the squeak isn't constant (pads that have the metal squeal bar make noise consistently when they get to it, IME). If I brake hard they are usually quiet, it's only light pressure that is doing it now. I know about the common "noisy when cold" that our brakes do, but mine have been doing it in warmer weather as well, and it's getting really annoying now.
I'm guessing that if I just take it all apart and put brake grease behind the pads and on the slides, this should quiet things down?
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My '05 Yukon begins pinging/clanging loudly from the undercarriage (possibly the muffler) after driving for about 10 minutes. After driving, the pinging continues for some length of time, depending on how long I was driving.
I live in the south and the problem began a couple of months after a winter trip to Chicago, complete with snow, ice and salt, and I failed to wash the undercarriage when arriving back home. There are some rust "freckles" on the frame and axle, but nothing on the muffler; the drive shaft is completely covered in rust. Could rust be the issue?
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My 2007 V6 Sonata Has a very loud clatter when I start it. It will last anywhere from 2-5 seconds then it usually goes away. It almost sounds like a baseball card hitting the spokes of a bicycle. It's within warranty and last time I took it to the dealer they first claimed they couldn't hear it. Then they changed their story and said that it was the belts warming up, and they said this is a perfectly normal sound for Hyundais to make. My fiance's family has owned 3 Hyundais and they have never had such noise come from any of there vehicles. Both of my other cars never sound like this.
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My front suspension squeaks very loudly when going over even the slightest of bumps. I've looked at similar threads and have noticed some people replace the entire control arm, some just replace control arm bushings, others change the strut mounts/bearings.
Am I better off replacing all 3 components (control arms, bushings, and strut mounts/bearings) or just doing CA bushings and/or strut mounts? Do control arms normally need to be replaced? Car has 90K miles, and is daily driven year around during the cold Minnesota winter. My knowledge of suspension components is limited.
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