I have a generic question about the check engine light on my 1994 C10 pick up. I have the 4.3L V6 auto and the check engine light comes on after I run it for around five minuets then it goes out after around ten minuets. My question is, does it have a change oil reminder and if so how do I reset it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 chev Blazer S 10. that has thesy troubles. when it warms up it runs high and hot exhaust and ruff idle. with a hot cat. Replaced EGR carbon build up at times.replaced fuel pump, and all the senors under the hood. Still runs the same.
View 3 RepliesJust got a 35 on my check engine light. From the list of codes this has to do with a radiator fan control, but the fan is not electric. It's a 1994 Ram with 5.2L 318 engine. I'm confused, what does this mean?
View 7 Replies1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
View 3 RepliesMy mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
View 2 RepliesSo this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
View 1 RepliesJust had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
My Lexus was working fine till yesterday, but today when I started (button press) it, it started giving me a Check VSC error and Check engine light along with Slip Indicator started showing up
Took it to Autozone for the codes and got
P0015
P0304
C1201
B2799
I just bought a 1994 s-10. I found out it needed the head gasket replaced, so I had that done. I picked it up last night, and found that when I'm going at speeds over 55 mph, the service engine soon light comes on. When I let off the gas and slow down, the light goes off. The engine sounds fine, and the service engine light has never been on before in the month that I've had the truck. The oil and coolant levels are good. There is no hesitation when going at higher speeds. The only problem is that the light comes on.
View 8 RepliesI own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
The truck just quit having any throttle control which seemed to be ignition. Way old stuff needed replacing so I went after that. Installed complete new distributer, coil and spark control module. No good. Found spark using checker but not sure what this should really look like. While checking compression found a lot of fuel coming out of number 6 cylinder and nothing out of any of the others. Compression in all cylinders is around 120. Distributor timing at number 1 TDC looks good. I am thinking some fuel system related issue but cannot figure out why so much fuel comes out of the number 6 cylinder.
View 3 RepliesIssue w/ my 04 Classic. At very slow speeds my car emits a groaning noise when turning hard left and also veers to the left at highway speeds. Tire pressure is ok. Didn't notice play in the ball joint or tie rod end when I checked.
View 3 RepliesMy 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 RepliesThis morning I tried to drive my 2008 Prius and the "check engine" light quickly blinked and the dashboard didn't light up. The monitor did turn on and I could hear the engine running. The monitor showed that the hybrid battery was almost full. While trying to go in reverse, the camera did not work. We just had an oil change done. The 12V battery was replaced almost 2 years ago. The car has almost 150K on it. I also tried tightening the gas cap. It's obviously winter and it snowed last night (in case that might be a factor).
View 19 RepliesI have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
I have a 2007 Prius which today, for the first time ever, refused to start. I pressed the Start button and all that happened is the "check engine" and "airbag" lights came on (dimly), and the green LED on the "P" (park) button began blinking. I pressed the "Start" button again but nothing I can do will change this. The car is sitting in my garage now, in this condition. I turned the dome light on briefly and it was very dim, so I suspect the 12v battery is dead. Only problem is, to access it requires opening the back hatchback door, which won't open without 12v power. Meanwhile the tiny bit of power that's left is being drained by the system in it's half-on condition (above). If I could get to the battery I could connect an external charger to charge it up enough to start it but I can't. What should do?
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