C/K :: 1994 1500 5.7 Liter Engine Skipping / Misfiring - Truck Running On Half The Cylinders
Dec 18, 2005
My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
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I have a 04 6.0 and lost with it. I parked it the other night and in the morning I went to start it and it acts like it's only running on half the cylinders. I haven't had any issues till now so I replaced fuel filters and air cleaner is fresh but no change. It is not throwing a check engine light it isn't smoking excessively. I don't know where to check next.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 6 cylinder 3.4L 100,000mI'm not sure how to describe this any better, but while driving down a 55mph road my acceleration suddenly crapped out. I could still get it to go, but I had to put the petal to the floor to get there. Engine was a lot quieter, didn't have the same pep to it at all. No overheating and didn't notice a change in oil pressure. I've got a diagnostic appointment tomorrow but thought maybe I could get some ball park figures before I get there.
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I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
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My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have an '01 Dodge Ram 1500 that will not go into reverse while the truck is running. The hydraulic clutch and transmission fluid levels are good.
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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Last night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
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What to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
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My 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:
- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich
He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?
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Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
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So last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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