C/K :: 1993 K1500 TBI - Engine Crankshaft
Jul 24, 2013
I bought a 93 k1500 that was blown up. Replace engine to find out heads are bad and knocks. Got another engine out of a 96 pickup vortec 350 with 50k on it. Before I put it in I found spun bearing on number one. Its not terribly loose or scorn but it is bad and i'm going to fix it.
If I buy the intake to adapt my tbi on top and a new 383 stroker crank and lower end bearing will this cause issues because everything else is stock in that engine?
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
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I have a 98 1500 4x4 with 5.7 the engine started acting like it was out of time.I replaced the gears and chain with no luck, replaced crank sensor still the same.when trying to start it , it starts to roll and then seams like the starter disengages the flywheel. When it does start it lags , misses and backfires. It is definitely flooding.I put it on my scan tool and a P1345 code is produced.(came sensor to crank sensor correlation ) What should I try next? I ordered a new distributor assembly but didn't install it yet.
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I have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
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'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
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Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
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99 k1500 (older body style). I saw older threads but didn't want to revive 11 year old threads. Door opens from the outside but not from the inside. Do I need to remove the whole interior door panel? What am I looking for? My auto parts store sells this, but it seems to require rivets (I don't have a riveter) so if I DO need this part, is there another way to install it?
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I have a 98 gmc k 1500 350 5.7 . Was having an issue with the truck bucking it would die very briefly thought maybe bad gas. Added treatment and few days later it was doing the same this time back fire check engine lite came on checked code mass air and cam position sensor.
I pulled cap and when I was about to take rotor button out I noticed play I could actually push down on it. I pulled distributor and confirmed the play I replaced new complete distributor and yes I forgot to mark position so line tdc #1 compression stroke installed distributor timing was off.
But running rough so I re adjusted timing now it just cranks I have played with the timing alot so I tested the coil had some strange ohm readings ( high quality meter) and have voltage 12 vdc at coil and module replaced coil today still same thing I have fuel and 60 psi of fuel pressure and it holds with key off and it's not the pass lock security does not flash. Fuel pressure regulator can't be leaking.
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I have a parasitic drain on my battery. 4.5 amps to be exact. I've tracked it down to the CTSY fuse or Fuse 3 in the fuse block. When I pull the fuse it drops to 40 mA which is pretty normal.
What is the most likely cause of this drain since my lights seems to be working and shut off when the doors are shut? I've almost got the dash ripped apart to get at the wiring harness but hopefully I can find it before taking the whole dash out.
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I have a 97 K1500 and the key will not fully seat in the driver's door lock. The key will go in but needs to go another centimeter to fully insert and work. My backup key does the same thing. The key still opens the passenger door and then I use the power lock to open the driver's side.
The lock doesn't appear to have anything stuck in it and I also flushed it with some WD-40 with no effect.
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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I have a 98 k1500 5.7 vortec. I was driving and the next thing I knew my truck lost power and would misfire at an idle but only when under a load (in drive with foot on brake). The last time something like this happened an injector came out of place. So that's where I started. I wound up changing the whole spider injectors and ALL the gaskets, upper and lower. I put everything back together and the problem was still there so basically I am back to square one.
I then pulled spark plug wires while running to see if I could isolate the misfire and found that I could pull all 4 wires on the passenger side without any difference in while it was running. So basically my truck is currently running on 4 cylinders and they all happen to be on the driver side. I checked my compression on the passenger side and all 4 cylinders have 180 psi so that rules out the head gasket being blown. I am getting 4 codes , 520, p1345, p0155 and p0161. I know that i have to get tge truck properly timed with a computer but i don't think that would cause my problem.
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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I have a 92 k1500 with the 5.0 L in it. I suspect the distributor drive gear is worn, and even if its not it isn't going to hurt anything to replace it because its the original OEM drive gear and the engine has 233k miles on it. So what I'm looking for step by step process removal and re installation?
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Firstly the truck in question is a 1994 GMC K1500 5 speed 350TBI.
Ok so I'm not sure what is causing the noise I'm hearing. its a humming that I think is coming from the front differential but I'm not sure, maybe it is the transfer case but it certainly feels like its in the front end and my steering does seem affected while in four wheel drive. It only makes the noise while in four wheel drive.
I have one off size tire on the rear end and I'm not sure if the actual tread circumference is the same between the front and rear tires or if any of this would really cause my four wheel drive to act up. I am planning on putting a new set of matched tires on it soon, so if they are the cause of the problem then that's good news.
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97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.
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I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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