I have a 92 k1500 with the 5.0 L in it. I suspect the distributor drive gear is worn, and even if its not it isn't going to hurt anything to replace it because its the original OEM drive gear and the engine has 233k miles on it. So what I'm looking for step by step process removal and re installation?
View 2 RepliesI just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
View 6 RepliesI have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
View 1 Replies92 PA Base ... Attempting to replace water pump. Is a hydraulic jack required to hold up the engine when removing the engine mount? The engine mount (passenger side front) is covering the right portion of the water pump. Although the engine mount has two holes for the remainder bolts of the water pump, there's no room to fit a ratchet or anything to remove the remaining two bolts. It appears the mount must be removed to replace the water pump. Is this so? How to correctly remove the engine mount.
View 1 Replies92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
View 2 Replies1992 c1500 5.7L
Every time I start and put n reverse I had to rev it before i can reverse or it will die, when in drive if i barely put my foot on the gas it stutters like its not getting fuel or a misfire or something. i have changed just about every sensor there is, as well as plugs. it only stutters when lightly on the gas pedal.
*About once a month* after driving about 50miles when you let off the gas going down the road it starts loping real bad, drops about 4-600 rpm until it dies.
1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
View 2 RepliesQuick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
View 4 RepliesI just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
View 5 RepliesMy 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
View 4 RepliesI have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 2.4L 4-cylinder engine with 68,616 miles on it. It was running fine yesterday. Today I went to back up and I no longer have a reverse gear. I drove all the way to work in forward (10 miles) but get no reverse. What am I looking at here?
View 4 RepliesThey are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
View 6 RepliesI Own A 92 Chevy Silverado, 154 K Miles. Runs Great! My Problem? I Experience Rough Shifting At First Take Off, After She Warms Up The Shifting Is Smooth. After Parking And Starting Again, Rough Shifting With A clunking Sound.
View 9 RepliesI searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
View 11 Replies1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?