C/K :: 1991 C1500 2wd - Truck Runs Good For 20 Minutes Then Dies And Won't Start Until Next Day
Mar 31, 2010
It is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
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I've been experiencing this problem ever since I bought my '90 C1500 305 but its recently gotten worse. After long trips (over 100 mi) the truck refuses (will not even crank) to start for at least 5 minutes following shutdown. Now, it will intermittently not start for 15 minutes following shutdown after shorter (~10 mi) trips unless it gets a jump, which is strange considering the battery is not run down.
I first thought it was a bad contact in the ignition cylinder, but I noticed that the batt voltage would always droop when turning the key to start, so I guess that the ignition is being applied. Now I'm wondering if the starter motor might be bad?
It's a weird problem to have, I am 100% certain the truck will start if its cold. But after a long trip it just flat out refuses, will not even crank.
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I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
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1993 Dodge Ram 2500 .... Multiple symptoms... some times engine turns over but truck will not start. sometimes engine dies whether driving at slow or high speeds. Happens whether engine is cold or warm. After sitting a while, the truck starts and will run for several days. Has 40 lbs of fuel pressure, we've changed out the ignition switch, crank sensor, distributor cap, rotor, pickup, engine control module, crank shaft position sensor.This has been happening for three months, I've been towed in 4 times. When mechanic connects diagnostic tool to the ecm, the engine starts and runs fine. Diagnostic shows no data of previous problem.
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I have a 1991 Silverado C1500 and when I push the heater button to on, the thing just goes absolutely crazy. Instead of one little indicator light, that is suppose to show hot, it lights up all the way across, like a pinball machine that has tilted. The heater air does not get hot and the temp indicator on the dash (separate guage) will not move off of cold. I am going to replace the thermostat, but what is going on with the darn temp gauge?
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I bought a 2003 F550 Super Duty 4WD, cab and chassis truck. It has a 7.3 TD. Real nice truck. I bought it to turn it into a wrecker. I removed the factory fuel tank (was behind the real axle inside the frame rails.) I installed a 50 gallon aluminum tank behind the cab on the frame rails. The rear tank has to be removed for the wheel lift.
Any way I have everything installed and now the truck dies out after a few minutes. It starts up fine then dies out like its starving for fuel. The tank I installed has a sump pickup (tank came off a freightliner, so its not some home made thing I just welded up in the garage)
I was thinking about installing an auxiliary lift pump as the auxiliary tank is a bit higher than the factory tank, but I want to solve the issue not throw parts at it. I thought at first injectors but it runs perfect after I prime it so my guess is its not the injectors.
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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I have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
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I was driving down the interstate and sped up to pass a car once I started to slow down the CES light came on and the truck started to shutter really bad. I got it to a scanner and it said misfire Cylinder 6 and he suggested that i change the cap rotor plugs and wires since it has been a long time since it had been done. I did so and and the problem has continues. It idles real rough acts like it is going to die, then under power it smooths out a little but you can still tell it it where. Above 3000 the CES blinks until you slow down and the the scanner still says misfire cylinder 6.
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
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I've got a cold start problem. Turn it on, wait until glow plug light goes off, hit the starter and it fires right up. It acts like it runs out of fuel and dies. Hit the starter and it fires up and dies again. Third time it stays running. It's not a long crank either. 1-2 seconds at most. Fuel pressure is 59, HPOP immediately goes 1000+, everything looks good. It will start fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. This is an early 04.
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
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My '10 f150 sometimes will not start. If I leave it overnight or just a couple of hours it starts just fine. The Starter engages, the battery tests fine. There is no audible hum of the fuel pump just before you try to start it. This happens about once a month. Once after a drive up the canyon, once after a 15 drive around town, and once on a 25 mile drive to my parents home.
I have heard that the type of fuel filler cap does not let the fuel tank vent as fuel is used and it creates a type of back pressure that causes the fuel pump to be overloaded and not operate. Also, there is zero drop in performance between these issues.
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After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
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