C/K :: 1989 Chevy Stalling After Warm Up
Nov 11, 2012
I have a 89 chevy 1500, 5.7 pick up. I beleive it's referred to as the c/k series.
Recently I've been having some issues with stalling. When the engine is cold everything runs fine but after warm up I've noticed the problem start occurring.
When I'm doing a slow turn ( any direction) , backing up, or in stop and go traffic, the truck want to stall when I touch the gas pedal. Once I get past the intial slight throttle it picks up and does fine.
I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and even the fuel pump( mainly because it never gauged fuel correctly but I thought it might have a pressure issue).
Nothing seems to work and I'm not getting any codes.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
View 7 Replies
Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
View 8 Replies
I have a 1989 Chevy C1500 w/ 350, T.B.I, Automatic Trans, Mileage = High, that keeps throwing the Trouble Code 13.
I can crank the truck and drive it and it runs great BUT as soon as the engine gets warm(5 -10 miles) the Check Engine Light comes on and I can tell a noticeable difference in power (loss). I have to press a little more on the gas pedal to maintain my current speed. As you know a Code 13 indicates a faulty O2 Sensor, I replaced it with NO LUCK.
Could I have bought a faulty O2 Sensor? I checked the voltage of the wire coming from the ecm with the switch in the on (not running) position and I got a voltage of 1.5volts. All this started all of a sudden after I done a complete tune-up on the engine.
New Plugs,Wires,Cap,Button,PCV,Air Filter,Oil and Filter, New Thermostat and Gasket.
View 5 Replies
My wifes 2000 chevy metro is either stalling out or bogging out . But usually happens after a drive on the highway 15 miles or so on a hot Arizona day, then say shut off at a gas station, then, go to restart it and sometimes probs starting, but not always. Then, while driving , it will be fine then stall and fall on its face. You can floor it and it won't go anywhere, but it will idle ok. If its cool outside, no issues. I am thinking O2 sensor or temp sensor. It runs real good otherwise this recent issue.
View 5 Replies
Long story: I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu base. About more than a month ago I was driving home from work my car stalled about 3 times. I was able to finally get home I checked the oil and to my shock there was none. I quickly put some in and my car started just fine didn't stall again. I drove it the next day nothing. Then the day after that I drove it to Walmart on the way back it stalled like 7 times and after that last time it wouldn't turn on. I got it towed to a shop where my car remained for over a month. The crank position sensor was replaced, the battery, and the ignition switch. I was told it was fixed, picked it up drove it to a town 30 minutes away it was fine, then drove it back it started stalling every 5 minutes.
Managed to take it back to the shop, they couldn't figure out why it was shutting off so they got a second opinion at a Chevy dealership nearby and they replaced the ignition control module. I picked up my car drove it around for awhile and the check engine light came on I was near pepboys they checked the code which said I needed to get the catalytic converter check/replaced. So I drove my car home. Next day drove it all day it stayed on, thought my problem was solved. Then that evening turned it on and within a few minutes the engine shut off and now it won't start at all. The mechanics that I took it to obviously don't know what the issue is nor do the mechanics at Chevy. It is not the fuel pump that's one things that can be crossed out. Or is my car done and should be junked?
View 8 Replies
The car is a 91 Chevy Camaro RS , 3.1 V6 and a 5 speed. Mileage is approx 400K + , the odometer has never worked since purchase and showed 239K when I purchased it approx 8 years ago.
The battery croaked due to being low on water and at the same time a stalling problem began so I wonder if the battery going bad may have contributed to the stalling issue.
The battery has been replaced with a new one but the stalling issue has not been resolved by replacing the battery.
At start up the car will idle correctly, occasionally when starting the rpm's will shoot up then slowly slow to correct idle
speed and usually continue to run.
When driving car seems fine but when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop at a sign, light, etc the engine rpm's begin to slow from traveling r's down to what would be normal idle speed, this is when it stalls.
If I left foot the brake and keep r's up with my right foot I can prevent the car from stalling. If I (using my foot on the gas) allow the r's to slowly come down to sitting idle speed it usually will not stall.
The cat converter was removed from the car several years back so it's not a clogged exhaust problem.
View 3 Replies
A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
View 5 Replies
I've recently acquired a 1989 ford ranger xlt 2.9L V6 and iv got my elbows deep already..... starts right up and scene its an older truck i let it warm up for a few minutes seems to sound alright so i jump in and take off... well i make it about two blocks and as soon as the truck seems to warm up it starts to sputter and die out... starts back up and idles for a min and i try to take off, but it seems to have NO power and jerks and dies.... so i push to a street parking spot and get situalated start the truck up again and take off only to make it about half a block tell it does the same....
First i think iv run outta gas witch i might of not sure so I walk to station and get three gallons. put in truck and same is happening. so i start kicking myself for not haven any tools with me and i leave tell next day... that night do a little research and get some idea's of what could be the problem'(s) so i start out with things that look like they need tending Badly WIRES, PLUGS, ROTOR, CAP, MAP SENSOR, and now after a whole day in the rain (Northwest BTW) and grease to elbows? 2.9 V6? What step's should i take next?
View 10 Replies
I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
View 2 Replies
I have a 99 explorer AWD with the 5.0. It runs fine when the motor is cool or just bopping around town, But when it warms up or you have drove for 10 or 15 miles on the hwy, it stalls to about 150 RPM it stays that way for about 20 or 30 seconds then take off again for about 100 yards then repeats. It throws a code for a minor leak in the EVAP system and that is it...
View 6 Replies
2005 Camry LE with 4 cylinders , the problem now is it will stall after warm up. To drive it to 60mph speed, it will take 2 time than normal. very slow accelerating.
Will stall after 20 second car complete stop, and will not turn over after 5-10 minute later. I had all 4 new Denso spark plugs and Fuel injectors, clean Maf sensor, clean throttle body, replace coolant temperature sensor.
View 11 Replies
I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
View 1 Replies
My 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
View 2 Replies
I have a nissan patrol turbo diesel 2002 automatic. It starts fine idles fine drives fine for a bit then wen at operating temp it randomly loses power and stutters and sometimes stalls. It also shoots smoke out of exhaust wen this happens. It also seems to mainly happen at higher speeds. Engine light came on also. It starts straight away again even idles fine straight after but once it starts happening. I need to leave it for a while or go like 70 or less to be able to drive it.
View 4 Replies
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
View 1 Replies
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 Replies
I know 12 is normal 24 is speed sensor so I ran out and ordered one but no clue where to find it on the car.
View 12 Replies
I own a 1989 Chevy Horizon Camper Van, a "camper" on a 1989 Chevy chassis, the "van part" of the camper is just like a normal 1989 Chevy G20 Automatic Van. About 2 weeks ago it started to "bog" down while accelerating, meaning it feels like the van is running out of gas although it is defiantly not out of gas. Also I put a new battery in two days ago because I had been having starting problems and somewhat hoping this would cure the other problems. It did not cure the problems and although I have not had to get a jump, the van is starting hard and the battery indicator on the dash is in between the dead line and the middle line. I also put in two cans of "Sea Foam" thinking there might be condensation in the gas line.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2003 chevy venture...yesterday I went to start it and it acted like the battery was dead, but it still started. Then today, it wouldn't start at all. So I jumped it and it started. Took it to the store, and it wouldn't start again. So once again had to jump it. I brought it home and let it run for like 30 minutes. I went back out there and on the little screen it was saying security...turned it off and it wouldn't start again. But this time there was no clicking or anything.
View 1 Replies
yesterday my 89 century's speedometer stopped working. check engine light stays on. able to drive it yet but feels like it's in a lower gear. has no get up and go. Tranny has been slipping from 2nd to 3rd for a while. I think it might be the speedometer sensor. if it is the sensor will I get some power back?
View 1 Replies
