C/K :: 1983 Chevy K-10 Start Violently Shaking When Going Down The Road
Feb 17, 2013
I have a 1983 chevy k-10 with a 350 and a th-350 trans. Every now and then it will start violently shaking as I'm going down the road. Almost feels like it's trying to engage into 4WD. But if I pull over and stop it will quit and i can resume driving. It was like every couple of months and only when i hit a large bump but now it's becoming more and more frequent to where i can't drive it. I've replaced the u-joints on the drive shafts, the manual lockout hubs, wheel bearing etc. I had decided it had to be the transfer case but my gut keeps saying it's the ball joints even though they feel good when you check them. I want my truck back.
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My 2007 3.3 Sonata has begun acting up at a cold start up. The motor shakes violently and I have to cut it off and try again. It normally smooths out. This has happened intermittently two or three times in the past three years but happened twice today.
I am out of town at the moment and my wife has the car. She is worried about driving. I am thinking it is some type of sensor etc. If I knew what it was I could have her take it in and I could monitor the repair process.
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I had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
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Recently I notice, when I'm going 60+ and then I need to slowdown, my steering wheel starts violently shacking. Plus I have watch with metal band and it it's making even more noise when it's starts to shake. Sometimes it's not that much to slowdown, but that shaking is too much. It's not ABS, because when ABS working you feel it in brake pedal, here is in steering wheel.
Also, I would like to mention the fact that I need to change my brakes! Now I don't know if its because of my brakes or some other problem.
Not that I need it, but this though keeps popping up every now and then. My speedometer shows 160, but I can go only 125! I was told that its some kind of chip that prevents to go higher. Is there a way to take that limit off? This question is purely for my curiosity.
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Have a 2004 Fx4. Lately its been shaking violently when i accelerate. When I turn the overdrive off it stops.
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I got in, stepped on the brake pedal and press the power button. Then the Prius ICE started, it started clanging and violently shaking the entire car. The clanging was sounded like metal on metal or something, it was loud and it was like the engine was seizing up. I stepped outside and the whole front end was buckling up and down. From my perspective, it seemed like the car wanted to lurch forward if I didn't have the parking brake engaged. I had Park engaged and also the parking brake on. I thought it would go away but it persisted. I turned off the car and immediately restarted. When the ICE started the 2nd time it felt a bit rough but finally the clanging noise went away. I didn't have time to look on my scanguage for any codes during the event. Did this cause any permanent damage?
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Years and years ago, I had an issue with my trusty '02. The steering wheel would shake VIOLENTLY back and forth. I went round and round with Toyota, but at the end of all the angry phone calls and emails the issue never got fixed, but they paid for an after market steering rack. I wasn't about to pay the 4-5K to get the issue fixed, so I just pulled the PS relay, and have been driving merrily along with no power steering for about 90K miles. I'm now at about 195K.
About a month ago, I noticed some symptoms.
1) some play in the steering.
2) when I went over some bumps, I could really feel the bounce, and it felt like metal bumping into metal.
3) when I punched the accelerator, there was a delay and a "thunk" feeling.
I was coming up on a major servicing, so I took it in to the dealership. They sorted out a few things that I knew were overdue (wheel bearings, battery coolant, transaxle lube), and came to the decision that the steering problem was that I needed a new rack. I told the gobsmacked mechanic that I just happened to have one, and they put it in, and they recalibrated the steering sensor paddles so that I would again have power steering. When I started the car up in the dealership lot, VIOLENT SHAKING. They took it back in, and declared that was because my ignition battery was marginal (which it was), and that a new battery would sort this out. I thus spent far too much money on a new battery. Two days later, wheel starts shaking, and again I pull the relay. All is normal again.
The questions are these:
1) Can that kind of shaking be repaired?
2) Could it really have been a battery issue? (the battery reads a nice even 12.6 and has a wonderful warranty)
3) Was my issue just tie rods the whole time?
In the meantime, I'm going to get 238K (distance from earth to moon) if it kills us all.
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My 07 prius with 190k started shaking violently when going down hill if I press the gas or brake at all is goes a way suddenly, this happens only around the high 40's to low 50 mph range and once at 75, this happened just after my tires where balanced and rotated brought it back they re balanced them and said they balanced out perfectly and the problem still protested. I drive on dirt roads all the time and i hit a big pot hole earlier last spring but the issue just started after the balance a week ago.
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My 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
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I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
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2008 f250 standard cab long bed 2wd base model 5.4. This thing has been great for the last few years i i owned it but it developed a shake since i got new tires. My mechanic mounted 4 new Hercules Terra trac at 2's on my 18 inch wheels (275 70 18) and when i got the truck back it was shaking violently at anything over 45. Mechanic says the new tires are heavy and its affecting other things...sounds plausible. So here i am a month later with a New steering stabilizer, all new ball joints, new shocks, new u joints, and 1 new tire (he said 1 of the brand new Hercules had a broken chord). The shake is 80% gone but this truck is still not the same. Anything after 65mph and it has a feint wobbly bouncy shake. I don't think its the dreaded hop that everyone gets on these. I have 2 theories:
1. These cheap tires just suck and will never be right
2. The cheap junk Monroe shocks he put on are way too soft to do anything
so what do i do? Should i get some crazy shocks or will that make this truck even bouncier? Im worried about making it even stiffer than it already is.
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I have a 98 Silverado, 2wd, 5 liter V-8, 180,000 miles. Occasionally, my truck will lose power. Driving down the road I lose speed and cannot accelerate. When I depress the accelerator the motor does nothing. This happens at any speed from take off to highway speeds. When it begins to happen I lose speed slowly for maybe 30 seconds then the service engine light comes on and the problem gets much worse. Sometimes it will sound like it's back firing but the sound is muffled. This seems to happen more often in damp weather but it can happen in dry weather too. And it doesn't always happen in damp weather. It happens in the morning or afternoon. Auto Zone put their tester on it and a code comes back for O2 sensor but the guy didn't think that would cause the trouble I'm having.
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I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
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I purchased a 2008 Honda CRV less than a month ago and felt it shaking every time it hit a bump in the road. Took i back to the dealer and he said strut and sway bar need replacing (it has 77,000 miles on it) and they weren't going to pay for that to be repaired.
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The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth. Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone. I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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I am growing very frustrated with the constant shake in my 2002 Passat wagon. A couple of years ago my wife had a blow out and I ended up replacing all 4 tires since it was time. I went with Michelin Primacy MXV4 (which I think the suck anyway). They have about 27000 miles. I have had the tires rotated about 3 times and the balancing always seems to go out. I purchased the tires at our local Discount tire and I have had to Road force balance them yet again. I do have a special warranty that should replace them in case one or more of them are defective. Before the last rotation the tires were fine I also had the rims inspected and they seem to be fine. I feel the shake mostly in the seat and the steering wheel does not suffer from usual side to side vibration
Another very curious thing is that they tend to shake a little bit more when I am going up hill. We live in NC and the highways are a bit hilly depending where you live. It happens in the 65 to 75 MPH range.
Everything else in the front end and suspension components seems to be fine.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
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I have an 1983 F150 on a little island, so I have to be the mechanic. Yesterday the truck started then stalled and wouldn't start. I opened the hood and the battery cables, the fender mounted solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter were too hot to touch. The battery was dead in about five minutes. I didn't have time to charge the battery, had to get back to the mainland. I bought a new solenoid and a new ignition switch today but where the problem might lie. I won't be able to get back to the truck until the weekend.
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Noticed the seat shaking when at highway speeds or when you go over bumps in the road? When my seats are empty, they shake and make an annoying rattle, shakey noise. I had them looked at by Hyundai and was told that there was nothing that Hyundai was going to do to fix them. After battling that for a while, Hyundai did reimburse me a car payment for me to "live with it" and, quite frankly, to shut me up.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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So I have come into ownership of a 2003 Prius and now I'm having issues with the power steering. I contacted Toyota and they told me the recal for the pinions was completed in 2012. Now own in the car I've noticed the steering wheel will start to violently shake and just last week while driving I got the warning triangle and the PS symbol and I lost all power steering. All this happened while driving on a highway. Toyota wanted to charge me 150 to diagnose the problem which I declined and took it to my well trusted mechanic. He told me the rac needs to replace. I've done a lot of research on this problem and have found many people complaining that even after having the recall done, they still had a problem and also were told the rac needs to be replaced.
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