C/K :: 1982 - Starter Motor Heated Up / Air Compressor Would Not Rotate
Aug 22, 2013
I've been working on this truck all summer revamping it from the frame up and I'm at the point of getting the engine going. I had it turning over and it would not start. Bled the injectors and tried again. Cranked over a couple if times and when I tried again the cable to the starter motor heated up.
Took the starter off and did a check and it spins fine.
I read were the next check should be turning the engine by hand. I did this and noticed the serpentine belt would turn on the air compressor pulley clutch, but the compressor would not rotate. Attempted to turn the compressor over by hand and it would not go.
I'm assuming the compressor is seized. Would I be correct? If this is true how do I remove it? I'm a little afraid of handling air conditioning systems, however with the right directions I would tackle it. After removal is it easy to repair or should I put another one on? How do you recharge the system?
1982 C-10 6.5L Diesel
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My sister was driving her Passat the other day and the AC stoped blowing, the cigar lighter quit working, heated seats & rear wipers dont work. I checked the fuses and they look good.
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I've replaced my starter motor 3 times this year. OK - I can live with that. But now it's also stalling. I'm not confortable driving a car in Los Angeles traffic that could die at any time. Mechanics can find nothing wrong except the starter motor needs to be replaced again.
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Right now, 1 out of every 3 attempts at starting this car results in the starter motor not turning over. When it does turn over, the engine fires up just fine. Tried putting the transmission range switch in Neutral and it makes no difference. In neutral or park, when the starter does not run and with the volt meter on the starter solenoid terminal there is no 12 volts . Looking at the electrical diagram of the starting system, it appears that I have a bad ignition switch or bad starter cut relay.
I think I will opt for the starter cut relay first because the ignition switch seems like a daunting task. But I don't know where this relay is located. Did some research on the web and it seems it should be near the fuse block which is located under the dash on the left hand side of the drivers position. I see the fuse block and above it is a 1 x 2 inch gray block that looks like it could be the relay in question. I can just reach it but can't seem to pull it out. Need toconfirm that this is indeed the relay, how to get it out, I can bench test it.
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I've had my .:R for a while now, gotten used to its little quirks. But one thing that sparks my interest (not really worrisome though) is I have a squeaking noise when the starter motor engages. It definitely squeaks once per revolution for about 4-5 sqeaks, and it's noticeable in and out of the car. Is it a bearing going bad?
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I have a Toyota 87 pickup that have been working great for the longest time. Now there is a problem and I need to fix it. It is a problem with the ignition switch I think but I am not sure. When I put the key in and turn it to 1st position I can hear the electrical system turn on, as in the little hums and noises that the electrical system does on a car this age. The next position where the starter motor would engage is however silent and non working. If I where to have a bad battery this is where the relay would go tic-tic-tic but there is no sound what so ever. So Im thinking maybe bad switch, or bad relay? How do I test this the easiest. Toyota got a r22 in it.
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Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
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Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
I had this problem when I installed a rebuilt starter motor in an early 1990's Toyota Corolla recently. It was one of those offshore rebuild starter motors. When I installed it, and turned the key to start, nothing. ARRG .. I have to take it back, and it takes me about 2 hours to install it, and another 1 hour to remove it! It's not like changing a lightbulb!
Anyway, first off, before removing it, I checked the voltage (that comes in the smaller cable from the ignition switch,not the one in the thick cable direct from the battery) right at the starter selenoid, and it was only 8.6 volts. At first I thought it was a weak battery, but the battery voltage was 11.8 volts under the same load at the battery. And the voltage at the ignition switch was 11.6 volts. It was loosing 3 volts in the wiring path from the ignition switch to the starter motor! Then I noticed the wiring harness was getting warm that held that wire. Oh Oh.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Unwilling to throw in the towel and remove the unit, I decided to completely bypass the ignition switch and the entire wiring harness, so I wired it up with my own switch I bough at Radio Shack and my own 16 AWG (the wire in the harness is 18 AWG) wires clipped direct from the battery to the starter selenoid. This is all from the front of the car. I just wanted to see if I could get it to turn and crank the engine. It worked, it cranked ok and everything, but the second time I tested it with this experimental configuration, it melted my 10 Amp Radio Shack switch! The switch was supposed to be able to handle 10 amps! Remember, this is the selenoid circuit, not the main power circuit from the battery.
So I then DID throw in the towel, and took it out, took the starter motor back to the auto parts place. ( I had a little dust-up with the parts place manager; he at first refused to refund my money. He wanted me to take another rebuilt one, but I'd lost trust in their rebuilt units and I just wanted my $$ back. We compromised on a voucher for future purchases.) Anyway, the parts place tested the problem starter motor I had returned to them, and they said it tested "bad". So the one they sold me was indeed no good. (Why they didn't test it before they sold it to me is another question.)
But here's the mystery: If the rebuilt starter motor tested "bad", and it indeed was "bad", how could it have cranked the engine with the experimental heavy guage wiring ? Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use way too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
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I have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
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I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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I replaced the starter in my 2001 dodge grand caravan two days ago with a brand new TYC 1-17784 starter motor. It starts fine the only thing is that it has a higher pitched sound when starts. There is no grinding noise and the high pitched sound does not continue once the engine is started. The starter did not come with a shim but I used the shim from the old starter. I am wondering if maybe the sound will go away once it gets 'worn in' or perhaps this is a non issue that I shouldn't be worried about.
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L engine that is having some issues with starting, here is what is happening.
Every so so often when the key is turned to start there is no movement from the starter motor. The battery is fine and all of the dash lights stay on while the engine is not starting. I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured model (possibly a mistake), and also replaced the clutch interlock switch.
I have attempted to change the ignition switch but the replacement I received did not even try to turn the starter (after many tries), like possibly it was faulty out of the box. I am currently using the OEM ignition switch as it will at least turn the starter eventually. I just worry that this problem will develop further at the wrong time.
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I have a 2000 chevy malibu that has not had a/c the past 2 summers. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem could be. When I start the car and then turn on the a/c by pressing the button in the car nothing seems to happen.
When I went to look at the compressor motor I could see that the clutch is not engage and the middle of the compressor is not turning. What to check without taking to a mechanic??
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I have a 97 f150 5.4 4x4 a/c compressor and clutch. It won't let my motor turn over because the ac compressor is locked up bc the bearings are shot is there any way to by fix this until i get a new compressor and clutch....
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
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2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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