Buick - Terraza :: 2005 - Transmission Went Out
Aug 8, 2015
We had the transmission in our Buick Terraza overhauled with 196,000 miles on it. The van had about 250,000 miles on it and we took it on vacation this summer when lo and behold, we were left stranded 800 miles from home when the transmission went out. We managed to make it home and eventually got the van home when my wife asked...what are you going to do with it? To which I responded, I am going to replace it myself with a transmission that has a better than 12 mo, 12,000 mile warranty.
Long story short, I bought a rebuilt Jasper transmission which comes with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. When I was taking the transmission out though, I noticed that the brace that attaches the transmission to the right rear side of the engine was loose. There are 3 bolts that hold the brace to the engine and all three had bottomed out in the engine block. Me question...is this right...or did the previous garage that overhauled the transmission use bolts that were too long...or maybe they need a washer under them. With them being loose, there is some sloppiness to the bracket so I didn't know if it was designed that way to account for any variances in the transmission housing.
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I was going to look into getting a replacement EGR valve from AutoZone, which I did. After installing the valve and on my way to reset the check engine light, it went away and has not come back.
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So I have squealing in the front of the transmission under hard acceleration. It also happens when I rev the engine while in Park. Could it be in the transmission or would just replacing the torque converter work? This is an 01 buick century with 150k miles.
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I just had all the plugs and wires replaced on my car. The mechanic said this (MAY) fix the problem.I am still having a problem with the car shifting very hard,and make grinding noise coming from the rear. It sounds like the transmission is falling out! Does it maybe the clutch sensor. I have had it to 2 shops and analyzed, and they have no clue.
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130,000 miles transmission shifts hard in every gear sometimes other times it is completely fine. Thought about servicing it with new fluid, filter, flush but have heard that this could cause problems since so many miles...
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I recently bought a 2005 Buick Century with 86,140 miles. It has a few things my old Century didn’t have including traction control, anti-lock brakes and 4-speed automatic overdrive. When I slow down to negotiate a sharp turn at an intersection, I sometimes hear a brief humming sound from the front end. It lasts for a second or two. It happens after the car’s been driven for about an hour. I don’t know if it’s the transmission, the brakes or power steering. It doesn’t matter if I turn right or left.
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Have 2005 Buick Century. There is a brake fluid leak somewhere between the brake fluid reservoir and the bottom of the car. Seeking a leak-stopping fluid such as the fluid used to stop a leak in a radiator.
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My mother's in low has a problem with brakes that so far no one can tell what is wrong. The problem with her brakes some times appear and most of the time the brakes are fine. In very low speed ( forward or backing) when she press the brake pedal to stop, the pedal sink and the car keep going without stopping. The local auto-mechanic replaced something ( she does not know) and didn't fix the problem, then they replaced the main cylinder and still have the problem. She went to the dealer and the dealer decide that the brakes wasn't bled properly so the dealer bled the brakes. The car work fine for a wile until the problem appear again. What is going on with those brakes?
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I have a 2000 Buick Century with 212k miles on it. I would like to sell it. The problem is the transmission overdrive solenoid keeps getting stuck open. It's not a big deal once I get going 55mph or so. It's just that it's kinda "jerky" before getting up to that speed. Is this something that can be fixed by having the transmission system flushed or is it a problem of having to replace the transmission? How do I sell this car (even for dirt cheap) if I have to tell the interested persons that the transmission is going out???? Can I get a thousand bucks for it simply for the fact that it does run? I have been driving it until yesterday, fairly regularly.
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, My 1997 Buick Lesabre transmission slips at random when I shift into overdrive. I have my mechanics look at the transmission and have them drive the car to recreate the problem and what do you know the car doesn't do it. I made a post about this problem a while back and it wasn't the A/C that was the problem. I do not drive fast in the car and I checked the Transmission dipstick and the fluid is still red and at the full mark. I brought my car to Auto zone to check the codes but all i get is a loose gas cap.
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A couple of weeks ago my 2005 Buick century start making a noise when i hit the brakes and all the lights on the dash lit up like a christmas tree. The noise it makes when i hit the brakes is like humming sound and the pedal will get kinda spungy and push in and out, if i keep driving it stops and all the lights come on (abs, trac off, service engine, and sometimes the brake light as if the parking brake is on) after all these lights come on the noises stop and the brake pedal works fine. I was told that the anti lock brake pump was going bad but I didn't realize there was a pump.
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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We purchased a new LaCrosse CXL in 2005. Its speedometer now shows 90,126 miles. The 5W-30 motor oil has been changed every 3,000 miles with no indication of oil loss until around 65,000 miles, when I began noticing a slight drop in oil level on the dipstick (about 1/4 quart) within the 1st 1,000miles following the scheduled oil changes. I then added enough oil to bring the oil level back to full. Within the next 1,000 miles, the oil level again shows oil loss of about 1/4 quart. This has continued over the last 4 years. The car is garaged, and I have never seen any sign of an oil leak on the floor. I have alsodriven behind the car several times, and have never seen any sign of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. Both my Buick dealer and oil-change shop manager can offer no explanation as to why this oil leakage problem developed and continues. The oil shop manager says he has other Buick customers with the 3800 V-6 engine that complain about this same problem of engine oil loss.There have been no mechanical problems with the car and with the exception of the oil "leak" we have been well pleased with the car. Where is the oil going?
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My mom has a 2005 Buick Rainier CXL. Starting yesterday the back wheels lock up when you try to make a turn. It moves fine when you're going straight
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190000 miles... Driving on the highway my car began to vibrate and lose speed. I had to shift out of overdrive before I could get the car to respond again. It continued to feel incredibly impeded. I could not push the car over 65mph and couldn't remain at speed going uphill. From a dead stop, the car accelerates incredibly slow in any gear. The engine feels impeded even in P and N almost like the trans does not disengage.
The trans will downshift and kick up RPM when the pedal is put to the floor like normal. What could be causing the trouble and how much it could cost to have repaired? I have checked the trans fluid in park at op temp and it's perfect. No fluid is leaking from the car. Car feels like it's in drive and I'm holding the brakes while hitting the gas... even in P and N so I don't think it could be brakes.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
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The light has been coming on for the last couple of weeks. I can reset the light by pushing the dash button. On a 700 mile trip last weekend, I probably reset it half a dozen times. The tires are all at 30 PSIg. Two tire gauges agree. I don't know how the system works. I don't think there is a sensor in each wheel like some later cars have. I suspect it works off of ABS sensors and wheel revolutions. The ABS light is not on, nor has it been.
The right rear tire has been replaced with one of the same size, but a different brand. This issue started a month after that. Can that tire have a different revolution length per rotation and cause this issue?
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On a 2005 Audi A4, 1.8 T... The Audi dealership found a 'fault for transmission control module' (the transmission slips), and a fault for vacuum leak ('crank case venting components dry rotted'). How much should it cost to repair each of these? My partner would prefer to get rid of the car if repairs add up to $4,000 or more, as the dealer would like to charge. The car has 44,000 miles on the odometer.
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It wasn't until very recently that my 2005 Touareg (V8) just dumped a plethora of problems on me all at once. System Fault Workshop, Brake Assist Failure, etc... However, one of the more serious and annoying issues is the automatic transmission.
One day, the action of pushing the shifter over into the Tipronic slot was stiff and unyielding. A little pushing here and there and it popped in there. No big deal. A few days later, once in Tiptronic mode, it refused to downshift, it would only upshift. A few days later, it refused to shift at all once pushed over into Tiptronic mode. Upon removing it back into Drive mode, it also refused to shift there.
Now, to my surprise, my Touareg will not shift gears up or down unless it is in Sport mode, which is not too great for the long-distance commuting I have been doing lately, I would like my 5th gear back. I have been unsuccessful in searching any situations similar to this and I am worried about what kind of parts could have been damaged under the shifter... but I am skeptical about what electronics could be broken that tell not only Tiptronic but also Drive mode not to shift whatsoever, and that it may be more deep-seeded than some flimsy plastic under the console.
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I am getting ready to drop the transmission pan on my 2006 Avalon XL, clean the pan and magnets, replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refil with WS fluid. How to remove the three or so bolts on the transmission pan that are blocked by the subframe connector (or whatever is blocking the bolts)? I plan on buying a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench in order to perform the job. Is there anything else that I need to be aware of when doing this?
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