Buick - Skylark :: 1991 - Misfiring / Stalling When Press The Gas
Jun 25, 2014
I've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
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'91 buick, 3 spd. 0 acceleration in 3rd, trouble code says TCC curcuit. Lopes @ idle when warm, runs rough @ times. many new sensors, timing chain & sprockets, still, the loping.
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I just had my 72 Skylark tuned up, when I start it and put it in gear it makes popping noise and stalls, I restart and let it run a for a few minutes and it will finally go. Once it is warmed up in runs great. What causes this stalling problem,? I guess I'm too old to remember.
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This 97 Buick will turn over and the engine will catch but then dies. It doesn't do this all the time. Also, the anti theft light comes on during this starting problem.
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I have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
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I have a 96 buick skylark. I just recently had the parking pawl fixed because it was broken. Now when I slow down the engine idle seems to start looping and almost stall, it in fact has once. As I slow down, and I can feel the car somewhat trying to pull forward as if its not down shifting correctly. when I finally get stopped the idle will come back up and idle normally. the car upshifts great. I know that one of my rear wheel speed sensors has a broken wire.
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We just replaced instrument cluster and turned the key to on position for 10 minutes. We waited for the anti-theft light to quit flashing and the car runs great but the anti-theft light will not go off. How can I fix this problem?
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My 91 corolla likes to lurch and misfire. Also there seems to be a slight loss of power to the engine. Clutch isn't slipping. What's going on? friend said it might be the distributor.
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My brakes are working fine, and the car starts up okay. However, when I press on the gas and go anywhere over 20 mph or so, my car will start, then stop, then start, then stop... Until I step off the gas. There's also a semi-frequent squealing noise whenever I press the gas. The Service Engine Soon Light is on. What it is?
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The title says a lot. I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 that has progressively been stalling more and more often. It doesn't stutter and then stall, it goes from robust engine power to nil. It's done it while at speed and while at idle, though most often at idle. ...related? I do burn oil.
I cleaned the throttle body and EGR to the best of my abilities (full removal. the throttle body is immaculate, the egr...meh) This cleared out a check engine light that recently came on, and renewed some life in the engine when it's not dead at the side (or middle) of the road.
I'm thinking fuel filter? Would this make sense? Anything else I'd be wise to consider?
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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I've got a 2000 Ford Ranger, manual 4 cyl. When cold, she's been stalling out. It happens very reliably when I come to a stop and put it in neutral (or put the clutch in). Only when she gets warmed up does it stop. Check engine light has been on (for a long time) saying the TPS sensor is out and the 4 cyl. is misfiring. I replaced the TPS sensor and it had no effect on the problem. A friend recommended changing the oxygen sensor.
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
As the title says, when I start the engine cold I get a slight puttering and drop in RPMs followed by the engine revving itself to about 1100 for a few seconds and then normalizing at 600. It has only actually stalled out a few times. This does not happen once the engine is near operating temperature.
Now, I did not notice this issue prior to doing some maintenance on the vehicle (radiator replacement and transmission service) and I've read that this can be caused by a faulty coolant sensor. Possible?
Battery is new.
Also, when I say cold start I mean summer temps here in Michigan. So it's happening anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees F.
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My 06 Elantra started to stall / misfire when I was driving it. It doesn't seem to matter how fast I am traveling as it will " misfire" for lack of a better word. It has an automatic transmission, and the rpm's will start to bounce as the car begins to jerk when this occurs.
I don't live anywhere near a dealership, so I brought it to the garage that I take my other vehicles to, and they had a hard time diagnosing the problem due to the fact that there never was an error code coming up or check engine light. They ended up finding a bad coil and changed it out.
That was 2 months ago and I haven't had a problem with it till today when the exact same issues resurfaced. And again no check engine light comes up, just the misfiring and when stopped at intersections, subsequent stalling.
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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I bought a well-used 1991 Buick Century for my son in December '12. At that point I put in a battery that was bought brand new just the month before. The car ran fine until a couple weeks ago. He tried to start it but only got a slow crank, like a low battery. I tried to jump start it, with no difference. Since the car was at his school, I asked his auto shop teacher to take a look at it. The teacher tested the battery on two different machines and determined the battery was bad. I returned it to the store I bought it at, where it was tested as working fine. I then swapped the battery from my car for his, and his battery (the one that was tested bad) started my car with no problems while my battery would not start his car. It produced the same slow crank. I talked to the shop teacher again, who pulled the starter and took both the starter and the battery to various auto parts stores. The starter tested good, but the battery was tested bad at 3 shops, and weak at a fourth. So the car is still sitting at the school, and we're at a loss. What might be causing this problem and how can we get his car running again, short of just buying another car?
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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