I just had my 72 Skylark tuned up, when I start it and put it in gear it makes popping noise and stalls, I restart and let it run a for a few minutes and it will finally go. Once it is warmed up in runs great. What causes this stalling problem,? I guess I'm too old to remember.
View 4 RepliesI've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
I have a 96 buick skylark. I just recently had the parking pawl fixed because it was broken. Now when I slow down the engine idle seems to start looping and almost stall, it in fact has once. As I slow down, and I can feel the car somewhat trying to pull forward as if its not down shifting correctly. when I finally get stopped the idle will come back up and idle normally. the car upshifts great. I know that one of my rear wheel speed sensors has a broken wire.
View 3 RepliesThis 97 Buick will turn over and the engine will catch but then dies. It doesn't do this all the time. Also, the anti theft light comes on during this starting problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
View 3 RepliesWe just replaced instrument cluster and turned the key to on position for 10 minutes. We waited for the anti-theft light to quit flashing and the car runs great but the anti-theft light will not go off. How can I fix this problem?
View 4 Replies'91 buick, 3 spd. 0 acceleration in 3rd, trouble code says TCC curcuit. Lopes @ idle when warm, runs rough @ times. many new sensors, timing chain & sprockets, still, the loping.
View 1 Replies[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
About 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
I have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
View 3 RepliesI noticed recently that my car started this popping noise when braking in reverse gear. I never ran over anything and babied it for all the 6000 miles it has on the ODO. 2015 Camry
View 4 RepliesSo my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
View 1 RepliesThis Buick began stalling, then difficult to start. We have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump and sending unit. It will start sometimes and either run smoothly for a few minutes or run rough stumble and backfire through the throttle body. It has not thrown a code thru any of this. How to proceed?
View 4 RepliesCar:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
I own an 87 Buick Lesabre Limited Coupe [URL] ..... I have driven it for the past 6 years with no major problems, but just now it has begun to have a stalling problem. The engine just shuts off at random times. Doesn't matter if you're at a red light or driving in traffic. She will stall, then after 5 minutes will start up again, and stall again. So, I took to it to my mechanic & he changed the ignition module & mass air sensor. I picked it up, and the 'Service Engine Soon' light went on, and then she stalled a few minutes later.
So, I drove her back to the shop (stalling several times on the way), and my mechanic changed the crank position sensor, and she still died. He read the trouble code 42, so he changed the ignition module again. I picked her up yesterday, and she made it home without stalling, but the 'Service Engine Soon' light still goes on after 5 minutes of idling, which leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else. Could it be an electrical problem (wiring, fuses, computer) that is causing the 'service engine soon' light to go on & the car to shut off? What else could it be?
I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous with a 3400 sfi engine. The vehicle runs perfect except random stalling when you are stopping or pulling out. It seems the vehicle has a random low idle unless the air conditioning is on at which time the idle stays around 700 and the vehicle does not stall. I had a repair shop clean the throttle body which made no difference. I replaced the IAC valve and air filter yesterday and still no change. Also was wondering if you unplug the IAC valve should the idle change because it has no effect on the idle at all when I unplug it while the vehicle is running. Really cant afford to just start replacing item after item with no result.
View 8 RepliesI have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
View 14 RepliesI know this is an old subject that comes up from time to time. Most will notice it after an oil change or the first oil change anyway. Yet, some will never notice or experience the sound.
It is when you first start the engine, it has been described as a can of marbles being shaken or popping noise, maybe a metallic knock.
I have 17K on the truck now and this seems to be getting louder and more annoying. Sometimes it is louder than other times, and sometimes I don't hear it at all. I have always changed my oil right at 5,000 mile intervals. Fuel Filter at 13,500.
My 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
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