Buick - Regal :: 2003 - Front Left Wheel Metal Grinding When Turning?
Nov 5, 2015
Car : 03 Buick Regal
Recent Repairs : Installed new brakes, rotors, and bearings a month ago
Problems/Symptoms:
1. When going forward grinding noise ONLY when turning wheel to the right, becomes a tad louder when applying brake.
2. When going reverse cannot turn at all without hearing an AWFUL grinding noise and the tire seizing up.
3. Front left rotor (where noise is coming from) is beginning to wear heavily on the upper-outside portion in a 2" band.
Possible Solution that I thought of:The metal brake pad clip is somehow bent/not installed right so it is grinding on the rotor.
Why Can't I Check Right Now : Do not have hydraulic jack currently to get my car up. Waiting until Friday.
Today, I took the car to the shop today and they actually found that my sway bar needs to be replaced, but unfortunately they did not open up the brakes to check out the grinding noise. So when I left, I got to thinking about the brake pad clip.
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I have a problem! I have only had my 07 gs awd for less than 2 months. I noticed this morning when I turn my wheel all the way to the left or right it makes a grinding or like metal on metal noise. My brakes were done only a year ago, and this noise only happens when I'm turned all the way to the right or left.
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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I got a 98 f150 with a 2 year old starter in it. When I go to start the truck I turn the key and it makes a horrible metal crunching sound. If I quick stop, then turn it again, it'll start.
I saw another thread here with 'occasional grinding noise' but this just started, and happens every time I turn the key. Is it time for a new starter or should I look towards the fly wheel or something else???
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I am hearing a grinding noise when I turn the wheel to the left.. and when I straighten it again the noise goes away.. no noise at all when turning the wheel to the right. what could it be? 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 km's
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When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
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My 1989 Buick Regal is making a grinding sound when I accelerate. It makes the sound slightly when it's just idling as well, but it definitely gets worse when I start going. It's been dying a bunch too. The engine will just shut off. The scariest part though, is when I pop the hood and have a look, there are shards of metal that I can only assume have been ground off, thus the grinding noise. It's near the belt, but that's all I really know because I'm not car smart at all.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
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I have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
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Driving at hwy speeds and head a pop noise in front end. Stopped and couldn't find anything, heard it a couple of more times, still nothing found, now I have a grinding noise left front wheel. What the issue may be. 2001 Ford EX 4X4.
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I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
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My wife's car, a 2003 Buick Century, has died a couple times on her while driving. Each time has been while she was in the midst of a left turn, so I think that is relevant. Today it is a humid, raining off/on kind of day, but she says that she thinks the last time it did it was a dry day. When it dies, she pulls over, puts it in park, and restarts the car, it runs normal, no problems. She said she has turned the ignition switch off, and then starts the car, and has not tried just turning forward to start, however her daughter said that when it died on her, she could not turn it to start - she had to turn it off then back on and it started fine.
Her daughter said that she had it die once while sitting at a traffic light, so I may be off base thinking that it is related to a left turn. The car has about 155K miles on it, and the only engine work that has been done on it other than maintenance is that the catalytic converter was replaced a few years back, when it was plugged up.
On this same car, I have to spray brake cleaner on the ABS sensors (front) about every 3-4 weeks, when the ABS light and the TRAC Off lights come on. Is there some way to keep them from becoming fouled?
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I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata. I currently have a slight grinding noise (or maybe more of a low growling) when I make left turns. This happened in the not-so-distant past and it was an issue with the power steering hoses (one had rusted through), so we (and by "we," I mean my fantastic father) changed it out. I thought this time it may just be low power steering fluid, but after checking it, I can say it's not low. I'd think if a hose was the culprit again, the fluid would be low. What we should look into?
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In July I noticed there was knocking in the front left wheel when that wheel was turning either left or right AND went over slight/heavy bumps..it sounded like some metal knocking....i had my mechanic put the car on the lift to check for any VISUAL problems, and he didnt find anything wrong...said it was probably the bushings inside...so yesterday the knocking got much worse and the ride sucked...so i put the car up again and found out that the left axle needed replacing, which i did..so the harsh ride went away but the left wheel knocking is still there...WHAT COULD THIS BE?? Im thinking that maybe it was this problem that caused my axle to break... [IMG] [URL].....
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So whenever I brake while reversing (and rarely while moving forwards) I hear this odd grinding noise coming from the front left wheel and can feel it through the brake. Im not a petrol head but I decided to replace a wheel bearing hub myself recently to save money. I am pretty sure I reconnected the anti lock brakes correctly though I doubt it's that. My brakes are good.
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I have a 1999 VW and i have this grinding, wobbling noise coming from the left front wheel side. I brought it to the dealer and two other mechanics and they can not find why there is that noise.
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I have a 1998 Buick Regal where the steering wheel randomly locks up while I am driving it. I usually stop the car and start it back up with success. The last time this happened was after I had the supercharge engine replaced. Once it locked up it I tried to start it up. The first time it did not restart, but the second attempt worked. I have taken it two really good mechanics and neither were able to diagnose the problem. I cannot remember if I am running the air conditioner when it happens. I know that sometimes I am. What could be causing my car to randomly lock up like this?
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Over the past few months I'd noticed an intermittent grinding noise coming from my left front wheel at low speeds. I took it in once but it refused to play along so I finally managed to catch it on camera and let the dealership listen to it. They booked me for today, saying it sounded like a wheel bearing (to which I agreed) and I dropped her off around ten, not expecting it to cooperate for the second time.
I got a call from the dealer around 2 PM saying that they were able to duplicate the noise and that when they took the left front wheel off and ran the car on the lift with the rest of the wheels off the ground, the noise went away. Even stranger still, when they put the wheel on the tire balancing machine and spun it, gronch, gronch...gronch, gronch....gronch, gronch. It was coming from inside the wheel! I gave them permission to dismount the tire from the wheel and about ten minutes later I got another call saying they'd found a handful of tiny hard rubber balls inside the mounted wheel/tire assembly that were rolling down the inside of the wheel and causing the grumbling at low speed.
Here's the kicker: they were in all four wheels! The tech even saved them for me so I could take a look and they don't look like anything mass-produced; some are larger than others, some are round and some are oval-shaped but when I dropped one on the glass advisor desk, it made a very clear 'Clink!'.
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I have a 2002 buick regal that shakes in the front end on drivers side while driving at about 45 mph and after replaced cv axle and tortion bar bushings seems to work some but still shakes some.
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