Buick - Regal :: 1998 - Weird AC Pressure Readings On The Gauge
May 21, 2013
1998 Buick Regal has strange readings on the gauges. 80-85 degree ambient air temp, low pressure is 60, high is 125. I have 100 lbs of static pressure in the system with the engine off. I am getting some cool air, but I would expect that the high side pressure is not high enough to cool well. Do I have a plugged orifice tube? Is my compressor not compressing enough? Or is my refrigerant low and causing the problems somehow?
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2000 mercury grand marquis drives fine and then suddenly temp gauge in dash shoots straight up and then comes straight back down. This lasts for about 3 seconds. The engine will hesitate during these 3 seconds. Then it drives around fine for awhile (an hour or so) and then suddenly shoots back up again. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and thermostat and coolant level is normal. There is no coolant in my oil or any signs of a leak. My alternator was charging a bit high the other day at 15.4 and I am not sure if that would cause the temp gauge to act up.
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Tonight when I was driving home, I drove my 1999 Buick Regal through a deep puddle kinda fast- the water went up to the windows on my car. A few seconds later, when I was pulling into my parking space, my car started to make a "mrrrrrmrrr" sound and I noticed steam coming off the right side of my car where the puddle had been. I was able to park and check under the hood but there was no smoke- just some steam and a little bit of a burning rubber smell. There seemed to be some water on the engine- not a lot, it was already drying up when I took a look at it. I also noticed that there was also an oily (not all oil- just oil mixed in the the water puddles on the ground) trail from just outside the puddle to where I had parked. I let the car sit for a few minutes and then drove it a few feet to repark it. It seemed OK- it didn't make the noise again or steam. No lights came on. Is it possible that I've seriously damaged my car or could some water have come up under the hood and onto the engine causing the steam and some oily runoff?
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I have a 2012 Buick Enclave that the fuel gauge fluctuate. It is not in sync with digital readings. When parking down hill the gauge goes to full. After driving a while the needle will move up a little. Even when on level ground it will fluctuate.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
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Mine is starting to leak. Watched a couple vids, they lifted the motor passenger side with a hoist and removed the bracket and mount, dogbones etc. That bracket had two bolts on one side and three on the other. They didn't unhook the exhaust or lower the frame either.
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1998 buick regal gs. My problem is when i throw my turn signal on at a stop or coming to a stop the car completely shuts off. Also now I have the problem with when that occurs I try to start it and now it won't do anything! Then once started the brake light and the anti lock light with the trac light is on and wont let me move the gear shifter out of park!
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I now have an annoying "clatter" sound coming from my supercharger cone housing ONLY when the car is in gear and at idle (i.e.,: stop light,etc.).. Had a new serpentine belt replaced 6 months ago with new water pump.114K miles, great condition otherwise.
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I have a 98 Buick Regal. When my air conditioning works, it is beautiful. On a hot and sunny day when I pull out of the garage, I can run the air conditioning until the car is turned off. After reaching a destination and parking in the hot sun the compressor will not blow cold air. If the day is overcast or cool, the air conditioning works fine. What the problem might be?
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The backup lights don't work and a simple test shows the wires have no power. The bulbs test good. I also checked all the fuses and they are good. Where is the switch located? Also, I searched AutoZone online for the part and get no results.
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I have a 1998 Buick Regal where the steering wheel randomly locks up while I am driving it. I usually stop the car and start it back up with success. The last time this happened was after I had the supercharge engine replaced. Once it locked up it I tried to start it up. The first time it did not restart, but the second attempt worked. I have taken it two really good mechanics and neither were able to diagnose the problem. I cannot remember if I am running the air conditioner when it happens. I know that sometimes I am. What could be causing my car to randomly lock up like this?
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What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?
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1999 F150 .... Been troubleshooting ac on my Dad's truck. Read the FAQ and after going through all the diagnostics on the ac (low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, ac clutch relay, coil resistance all OK) I found issue with the clutch gap. I removed the washer in the clutch and put everything back together and the clutch is engaging properly now ( the gap is around .020 now) and seems to be working ok. I borrowed a set of gauges from a friend and want to verify the low and high side readings to see if the charge is adequate. Getting about 48F air out of the vents with outside temps around 85F. What the low and high side pressures should be running at that outside temperature?
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The A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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I have a 2001 buick regal with the odometer lights out. How do I fix this? Do I have to take the dash off to get to the light?
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