Buick - Regal :: 1996 - CEL Code P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Plus P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor
Jan 18, 2015
Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
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I've been getting this error code recently ("Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean"). I have a Scanguage, which let me get the error code, and I used it to reset the message - it came back about a week later. I took it to a local repair shop after the second time, but as I'd already cleared the message, he couldn't do anything. It came back about a week later, and this time I took the vehicle in as soon as the yellow light showed up (without connecting the Scanguage).
The mechanic said that he found both P0171 and P0172, and that the problem was a loose vacuum hose AND a failing Mass Airlow Sensor. They reattached the hose and cleaned the sensor, but said that the latter fix may not last - the light came back on two days later. I took it in again (this time, checking the codes, and found only P0171) and he said this confirms the problem with the sensor and he'll have to replace it ($280 for the part, plus labor, less a discount on the labor equivalent to the labor he put in to clean the sensor.)
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 3.5. Today I started it and the check engine light came on. It was not on before this. (We had a lot of wind and rain from the storm but nothing major.) And seems to be running fine. I went to the auto parts store and they ran a diagnostic and the Code P0306 came up #6 cylinder misfire. They said probably Spark plug, wire or coil for #6, then went to look up code in computer and did not have my truck so they went with Kia or Domestic, which gave different possibilities for a code P0306.
They had me buy some fuel injector cleaner as injector was on the list. The light is still on so I guess the cleaner was not the magic bullet. I spoke to a lady at another auto parts store who is a wiz when it comes to cars and has been around them and fixing them a really long time. She says the Code P0306 is Spark Plug, wire, coil #6. She has a 4cyl Hyundai car not truck and she had the code for her #4 misfire in the past and she started her repair cheapest first, Plugs, wires her code was still there she then changed the coil and that did the trick for her.
I on the other hand can't do this stuff myself. Can't afford the dealer anymore or to have a shop do a tune up AND coil if I don't need all new plugs and wires just a coil as they will charge a lot to do a lot all. And it may not need it or even be any of those things. I also suspect the dealer and shops will want to still hook up their computers to do an costly diagnostic because the light is on, even though I know the parts store already came up with a code P0306 twice. Spoke to the dealer on the phone and he already basically said they would want to do that first for $100 plus the cost of repair.
I brought the truck new. It now has 91,500 miles on it and the dealer has already done two tuneups on it in that time, Plugs and wires. I hear it probably shouldn't have even needed these tuneups in this amount of millage? So the last one was probably about 2 years ago and a few thousand miles maybe a guess 10,000-20,000 miles ago. Do you think a plug and wire would be bad already in that few miles?
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How long does it take to change a crankshaft sensor on a 96 Buick regal custom 3.8L anything else I should change while changing that?
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I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
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So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
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2001 Olds Alero. i'm getting a P0300 reading, Cylinder misfire, and i was told a could months ago my mass air flow sensor was out of range. are they related? how serious is a misfire? can i drive a couple hundred miles before service?
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Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo, essentially a small Golf, with an 1.4 motor, automatic. 40,000miles. The car's got the symptoms of a dirty mass airflow sensor but, when I removed what the manual said was the air temperature sensor all I saw was the open end of a small metal tube. No mass airflow sensor. The mechanic at the VW dealer was also perplexed as the specs for my motor (apq) says it has one. At any rate, the car suffers from sluggish performance going up even moderate hills and doesn't get the gas mileage that it should. What else could be causing this? Also, does one need to clean the air temp sensor in the same way as the MAS?
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Got a check engine light and ran the codes and here's what I got.
P0174 fuel system too lean bank 2
P0171 fuel system too lean bank 1
P0174 fuel system too lean bank 2
P0171 fuel system too lean bank 1
P2187 fuel trim malfunction system too lean at idle ( additive )
P2189 system too lean at idle (additive) bank 2
Suggested parts maf sensor.
So im not getting any of the usual signs of a dirty or bad maf sensor. Power is fine engine is responsive and gas seems to be doing alright.
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I'm wondering where the mass airflow sensor is located on a 2004 Pontiac Bonneville?
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My engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
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There's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
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I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
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1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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She is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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My 96 Buick Regal acts like it is out of gas after driving for about 10 min. Takes awhile to start, then runs rough if at all. After it sits, it runs fine again for about 10 min. I changed fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
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